Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[pickpackpockpuck]

It was "big" in the way intended, not in the sense that it didn't fit. Just bought a pair of pants. The good news is I really like them. They're a very straightforward cut, no extraneous detail, so kind of a good starting point for exploring the Yohji fit since it seems like they should pair easily with anything. My only hesitation is that they seem a little formal. Bad news is my current footwear doesn't look quite right. I need chunkier shoes. Pretty certain I'll keep them. I can definitely see how they'd look great with a jacket up top.

 

[snowmanxl]

good thing about yohji is that you can get away with docs which are relatively cheap

 

[Arche]

I've been meaning to post some pics of the long coat I received a couple of weeks ago. So here they are.

After a slightly disappointing experience with my first YYPH purchase, which was slightly too small, this one is perfect. I don't have much experience with high end labels. In fact, Yohji is the first serious designer with whose work I've felt any particular affinity. But, I have to say, there really is an indefinable magic about this garment. Although the quality is very evident, it's more something about the way it feels on the body, which, as many have no doubt already said, can't fully be communicated in pictures. It's somehow simultaneously light, and wonderfully billowy on a windy day, and satisfyingly heavy. Without waxing too lyrical about it, wearing it feels like being draped in a cool evening wind.

The coat is from the YYPH 1999 "gypsy" collection. By the way, I LOVE the way Yohji presented that collection. So much more fun and interesting to me than the usual super serious models and linear runway. The body is % 100 wool, and the collar is a mix of silk, rayon and acetate. It's fully lined. There are two leather buttons on the front, and two on each cuff. There are two external pockets and two internal.

The shirt is a Y's piece that I was lucky enough to find in a charity store. Not sure which Y's season the shirt is from. The label code is MX-B04-019. It is without a doubt the nicest shirt I have. It's made of a really thick, soft cotton and the construction is amazing. I've tried to show some of the close up detail in one of the pictures. Basically, most of the edges are left raw, and there are various places where the fabric is folded over and buttoned in interesting ways. The front of the shirt has multiple layers of fabric, and the buttonholes pierce the layers of fabric to different degrees. So, one button whole goes through all the layers, another through only one, and so on. This creates some wonderful shapes at the neck, which are somehow simultaneously formal (they make me think a little bit of the white cravat of past centuries) without being conservative.

The trousers are nothing special, but they are the only trousers I have at the moment that have an even remotely "Yohji" shape. The shoes are some Campers ankle boots.

 

[davidlee388]

That's a really nice fit Arche

The coat is worthy in anyone's Yohji wardrobe. The shoulders, sleeves and length look spot on. Wonder what the back looks like and the fabric code?

Also your shirt looks very interesting and nice as well, superb construction from what you said. You said it is a thick shirting cotton so it's probably AW07 then ( or SS01 but it would have done so well standing the test of 10+ years being a white shirt ).

I'm sure this will not be your last Yohji buy based on this

 

[Arche]

Thanks David. I was a bit rushed today, but I might post some shots of the back and sides another time. The back is pretty straightforward, with a centre vent. The tag code for the coat is HN-J09-191. As for the Y's shirt, I'd say it must be AW07 since it was in pretty much brand new condition when I found it. Yes, I think this is the beginning of a long, but inevitable, slide into Yohji-induced bankruptcy I think my next purchase has to be some nice baggy wool trousers.

 

[dantebykiko]

ss11 floral jacket arrived. size 2 and it fits slim, but i'm quite happy with it as if it was oversized would make it bit harder to wear as it shouting pattern and if the fit it's big then it will be overdone.. thanks to asobu i got the matching floral trousers few days ago but will wait till next week to receive them. the shirt it's old yyph(the care label it's gone so no codes), vintage cropped trousers and cdgh boots.

 

[davidlee388]

Talking of SS11, my Y! win just arrived so try to put together a Look to showcase one of many highlights of that season.



YYPH SS11 Look 9 Long Shirt ( HO-B31-980 ) - aptly nicknamed by Wire.Artist as the " Priest Shirt ", he wears it much better than I do

. 100% cotton, medium weight interlock fabric, feels like a wool knit/track pants cotton. Shirt collar and sleeve finish, 10B closure. the collar, cuffs and button placket are reinforced by a satin like cotton backing. Left chest patch pocket, 2 concealed side pockets ( lined as well ). Uneven hem. This is sz 1, length 120 cm is great, relaxed, dropped shoulder fit, sleeves fit perfectly. The uneven hem creates great silhouette and flair in motion when worn buttoned at the top without a blazer. Very dramatic yet simplistic Yohji signature long shirt construction. Now joined the Priest Shirt Club ( lol ) with 3 other elite members of this Forum. I have been told the wool non-Runway iteration is even better.

Y's for men SS03 pants ( MQ-P10-103 ) 68/32 wool/rayon blend. Elasticated waist with belt loops, NO button closure, zip fly, 2 buttoned back pockets. Sz 2 very oversized fit, the fabric is the best SS variety I've come across, very light, comfortable, crease-proof with a almost see-through quality. Great in motion.

Y's AW06 Hi-top sneakers and a basic black SS Tee.

 

[valter]

I have the "priest shirt" in wool gabardine! So that makes 4 of us!

 

[Parker]

nice proportions, david. the wide trouser legs look good with the flare of the long shirt tail. I also like the Ys sneakers.

approved!

;-)

 

[davidlee388]

Thanks for the comments Valter, Shah and Parker This piece is very hard to pull off for a short guy. Size 3 which measures circa 131 cm in length is impossible on me. This size 1 is very rare ( with price to match, but so worth it ) so can't be choosy what material. It's a grail piece, Yohji is a master doing long shirts.

Valter, I have a feeling the wool gab version is even better in motion because I reckon the wool can be a lighter, softer fabric.

 

[dantebykiko]

can't get enough of the jacket. really looking forward to the trousers. david the shirt looks really nice, but would like to see it layered under short jacket and unbutton. that's how i will wear it i think if it's mine.

 

[valter]

Yes the wool version flows beautifully. It is made of the classic 100, so you know how it is!

Such a versatile piece. It also looks damn good under a jacket, all buttoned down. Really shakes up the proportions.

 

[gettoasty]

David Lee that is the best YY fit I have seen from you yet

The footwear definitely helps

 

[Ivwri]

Great fits guys. Love how that floral jacket looks on you kiko, really regret not picking up one when I had the opportunity. Different cut, but the pattern is so nice in person. You must definitely post a pic when you get the pants .

Priest shirt looks awesome on you David, happy you decided to go for it . I am looking forward to picking up another long shirt from SS13, they are really cool in motion and like valter and kiko said can be styled with a jacket for extra oomph. I really like the hidden side pockets too. I think cowerd had/has a priest shirt for sale in wool gab (albeit in a size 3), someone should be pick it up for sure.

Just to chime in and say I agree with what Parker and kiko said with regards to the jacket cupper, definitely wear it a bit more and try styling it differently before you do any alterations, you might find that you end up liking it the way it is .

Thanks for the impressions of the pieces p^4. Looks like the capes had already sold out by the time you got there. I had sent an inquiry to Derek about the jacket and they told me the largest size they got it in was a 3. Not sure I want to pick it up at that size, especially after your description, would rather have that boxy fit which it seems either Atelier does not go for or doesn't seem to sell for them.

Still waiting on the Japanese price list for this season although after some thinking and some pieces that just became available from older seasons, looks like I will only be picking up 2 jackets and a pair of pants or so from it. The navy jackets with the embroidered patches have definitely caught my eye so will probably pick one of them up soon.

 

[davidlee388]

Weekend casual outfit, i.e. not decked head-to-toe in Yohji. Thought I put this on after checking out the colourful SS13 Runway.




YYPH SS07 Dual Fabric Overdyed Blazer ( HT-J62-034 ) non-Runway piece but the pants of a black iteration was on Look 46/47. The fabric deserves special mention. Single layer dual fabric, surface is 100% cotton, light maroon with darker pinstripes. The stripes are overdyed sliver in polka dot pattern, very striking in person, almost like a traditional chinese costume. The reverse side is 100% linen in a lighter shade... Yohji the master of fabrics. All these techno stuff mean a great summer light fabric. Light brown Yohji buttons, 3B closure, no shoulder pads, buttoned non-working sleeves, half body lined in linen, small notch lapels, 2 inside left pockets, one buttoned right pocket. Size 2, short length, longish sleeves, very roomy chest, great boxy fit.

Y-3 black cotton drawstring cargo pants, black SS Tee and Timberland creepers.