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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Latest acquisition, from a sleeper = cheap. But that is not the best bit....

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH AW00 Garment Dyed Plaid Blazer - ( HT-J74-809 ) From the " Haute Couture " Collection, 66/34 rayon/wool blend, the rayon softens and lightens the fabric ( brilliant ), size 2, suitably old school Yohji fit, super comfortable. Long silhouette, horn buttons, 3B closure, notch lapels, 2 bottom pockets, fully lined. The body is divided diagonally, the top section is grey with a hint of green ( same on buttonless sleeves ), diagonal plaid pattern in the same direction running throughout. The lower section is dyed very dark brown and black with the same plaid pattern. 2 breathtaking features, firstly the border between light and dark is blurry giving an avant garde edge to it. Secondly even though the panels are one piece, look closely the dark and light plaid patterns are actually staggered instead of a continuation with a different shade. It's truly masterful in construction and fabric, pictures cannot truly capture the craziness of this piece. All expectations have been exceeded. Easily in my top 20 blazers.

    YYPH SS09 Look 8 Pleated Pants ( HV-P30-010 ) BNWT, size 2, already described in the last post. Super baggy, high waisted pants.

    Y's AW08 Contrast Stitch LS Tee ( ME-T01-053 ) 100% cotton, size 2, dark black with white stitch details on crew neck.

    CDG H+ belt, Y-3 Hejarklack Hi-top Sneakers.
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2012
    7 people like this.
  2. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    love the trickery, almost as if you have a large shawl over your shoulder

    Rex has listed hakamas in sz3, cotton, 010 fabric (is that jersey? if so could these be mine since i did ship to Hong Kong :paranoia: )
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012
  3. Guy Burgess

    Guy Burgess Senior member

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    Can I pm one of you guys for some advice? I've found a coat I want. Sorry to ask but it's just to check a couple of things :embar:
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012
  4. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    If I can help you're more than welcome to PM me :)
     
  5. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Thanks Mr Shah, that AW00 is extraordinarily impressive....and I've handled a fair few pieces in my time. It's really true he doesn't make stuff like that anymore....

    Rex did tell me a few days ago he found 2 Hakamas whilst he was in Tokyo so ain't sure if they're yours. The other pair is green I've been told. ( I've not checked his stuff recently ) fabric 010 in black will be Look 39 Type 2 then. You may know if they're yours by comparing your asking price with his ( he is a re-seller so needs a profit margin ).

    He also said a friend there told him SS12 is the last time for Family Sale in Tokyo, truth?

    Edit:- Shah-san, I just looked at his FB, they are not Look 39 ( mine ) cos these one has belt loops. However the fabric may be the same 010 " jersey " cotton.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012
  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    The 010 black cotton hakamas are probably the ones from look 7 if they have belt loops shah. Are those the ones you used to have?

    Great jacket david. You and wire really have a good eye for and the ability to snag rare YY pieces. Very cool that you are posting loads of pictures as that way we can all live vicariously through your collection :D.

    Guy Burgess, feel free to PM me any time you need something, although I am sure either david or asobu would be able to help you out if it is to do with something vintage Yohji or something else more specific! :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012
    2 people like this.
  7. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Glad to see you ended up going for this jacket, david, and that you posted it here. It looks much better than in the decidedly crappy pics from the runway. As you know aw00 is a strong personal favourite collection for me so I'm always thrilled to see some more (& better) pics from any of those pieces. I have infinite regrets on a few that I passed on earlier, if I get the chance again I won't that mistake twice!
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. spacepope

    spacepope Senior member

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  9. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    No no, Wire and Asobu have the real good eye for cool stuff, I am merely learning from the true masters. They are the epicenter of the Western YY Universe :)

    Talking of Wire.Artist, one of the pieces here is fostered from his coveted collection:-

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH AW05 Look 19 Studded Blazer ( HN-J16-101 ) - AW05 my undisputed favourite season overall. Size 2, 100% wool, heavy than 100 gab and have a woven weave. Very long and oversized, Yohji buttons, 2B or 3B closure ( the notch lapels allow that option ). 2 bottom patch pockets, 1 chest pockets, 2B working sleeves. The cool bit is it's adorned with small black anodized studs, mainly at the panel joints, shoulders, cuffs, lending a utiltarian twist to an elegant blazer. It also has a asymmetrical studded back vent on the right, unique beauty. A 100% wide cotton tab of the same weave under the left lapel allows a stand collar look when buttoned over to the right.


    [​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH AW05 Look 20 Shirt Knit Hybrid ( HN-B12-030 ) - this will take a while [​IMG] ex-Wire, think Kiko has a similar piece. 100% cotton medium weight shirting fabric. Size 3, true white in colour, the top section is a cropped shirt, 4 white button closure, 2B cuffs, suitably oversized. There are 100% wool inserts on collar and cuffs, completely detachable via 9 buttons on collar and 4 buttons per cuff. The best bit is the knit hybrid/apron/skirt that can be attached to the top section via 12 double sided large white buttons. It can be used on its own, or once attached, can be closed both sides or one side or folded over. On the right there are 10 buttons + 2 ( double-sided ) buttons, on the left there are 6 buttons to play with the silhouette. So I counted 67 buttons in total, truly gobsmacking in construction and concept. Such versatility, truly unique garment, and so Yohji.

    Y's for men AW08 Drawstring Pants ( ME-P52-074 ) - posted before, 100% weighty cotton interlocked fabric, hugely oversized

    YY x Adidas AW08 Leather/Fabric YY G9 Hi-top Zipped Boots - ( HE-E02-721 ) - size 2

    White SS Tee, CDG H+ belt.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  10. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    this be dope!!
    layers are awesome
     
  11. dmash

    dmash Senior member

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    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012
  12. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    This jacket is one of the best things I have seen in this thread. Beautiful. You are very lucky.
     
  13. fireflygrave

    fireflygrave Senior member

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  14. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    just received the dbl breasted jacket :drool:

    too bad it's lined med weight wool and it's 23948 degrees (F not C) out now :foo:

    absurd drop of Y's jackets on yoox, i say so in hopes that others buy to keep me from buying !!
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012
  15. colabear

    colabear Senior member

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    Talking of Wire.Artist, one of the pieces here is fostered from his coveted collection:-

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    David, great pieces and interesting looks. May I suggest some accessories to complete the look

    [​IMG]
     
  16. esox

    esox Senior member

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  17. Auburn

    Auburn Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    YYPH/Y's/YYPH/Converse

    The shirt has a removable middle placket, as well as a double placket on top. Many of the hems were left raw and the back of the shirt is made of a single piece of fabric. Definitely one of my favorite acquisitions.
    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  18. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Ivwri kick-started the Top 5 Pieces again so reminded me to post one.
    My AW04 Zipper Set-up is number 5. This is one of three Joint Top 2s. If ever a YY piece needs an operation manual, this is it. And lots of pictures to explain....

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH AW05 Look 41 " Parachute " Blazer - ( HN-J05-101 ) - Nicknamed by Asobu whilst discussing it last year. 100% wool, same fabric as the Look 19, soft hand, heavier than 100, woven texture and very black. Size 2, generous fit, perfect sleeve length and shoulders. Bespoke black anodized flat metal buttons, 3B closure, notch lapels, fully lined in cupro. 1 chest pocket, 2 bottom expandable pockets with anodized studded flaps, 1B working sleeves. Double collar with big hood in cotton, detachable via 4 horn buttons to collar and long double zips to inside of lapels, stud and tab for a closed hood look. 2 ultra long zips ( with stud details ) to open the sides of the blazer for various silhouettes, aiding motion. At this point the blazer is a great piece in its own right to wear fit and style wise, with/without the hood.....
    This blazer, however, is supplied with an " accessory " ( only another YYPH I have came with one ) in the form of a " parachute " strap, a long elasticated strap covered in cotton. It has a run-free studded tab and the ends have 3 anodized catches, 6 in total. When studded to the blazer at the hood or under the collar, it transforms the jacket conceptually and visually...


    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Alternative views:-


    [​IMG][​IMG]


    Shown in its maddest, altered ego mode, the catches are attached to the anodized T-hooks on elbows ( sewn in ), cuffs ( under cuffs and stud removable ) and front panel corners ( stud removable ). It opens up the front of the blazer, pulling the corners back, and offers interesting movements with the arms. And with all points connected, it vaguely lends it the parachute concept. It's rather cool and so badass. Alternatively the strap can be put through the sides ( zips opened ) and pull the front panels " in " instead, creating another look:-


    [​IMG][​IMG]



    So many playful ways to wear this..and when the craziness is over, it can be transformed back to a go-anywhere piece.
    Shown without hood and cuffs detached:-



    [​IMG][​IMG]




    What is epic about this piece is first and foremost ( with any clothing ) its lovely fabrics and fit. It also manages to marry elegance with madness. A piece with such strong utilitarian vibe should be made in some heavy duty cotton blend, but Yohji chose wool. The typical Yohji twist allows this to change from formality to " street " without affecting the " Yohji " silhouette. Some may argue the strap is OTT and not wholy practical but the fact is Yohji and his team were allowed their imagination to run free and create something like this that is truly refreshing. And to have fun, so why not? This piece deserves a lengthy write-up and a firm 5 Top spot.

    Close-up


    [​IMG]


    YYPH SS06 multi-pocket pants ( HR-P55-100 ) - size 2, 100% wool, posted before. crazy waist pockets' construction.

    YYPH SS Tee ( HA-T91-952 ) - year?, judging by the 100% cotton, probably AW, very dark navy, lovely crew neck band. Size 2

    YYPH AW11 Monkey Boots ( HP-E05-754 ) - size 2, posted before, 15 eyelet closure.

    CDG H+ belt.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2012
    5 people like this.
  19. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Wow david, that is indeed a killer piece. Usable in both urban and formal environments and truly unique. I love how so many concepts are explored here - bondage, military, formalwear, youth culture and casual wear all in one piece. Very, very nice.

    This is the one thing that I am curious about whether Yohji will return to in future seasons. Using straps and zips and buttons to create transformable and for want of a better term, "street" pieces in a collection. The recent seasons are not experimental in that regard with more focus being given to silhouette and fabrics I wonder whether this is tied in to Yohji's mind state as he approaches 70, wanting to create clothes that are not as "hard-edged".
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. MyMindSpray

    MyMindSpray Active Member

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    Sep 2, 2006
    Hi all! ...Looking for some sizing advice regarding the Y's for Men line...I've heard that, generally speaking, this line is slimmer and less "oversized" than YYPH...more tailored I suppose...

    Looking to pick up a classic coat and worried that my standard size 4 is gonng be too tight...

    Can anyone put my concerns to rest? :)
     
    1 person likes this.

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