Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

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    A lot of the aw09 collection was designed to be reversible. This was the same collection with animal print linings, shown inside out on the runway, with boxers worn over pants, etc. I have one of those reversible jackets with a cotton outer and fleece lining too. I got it in a size 2 and found the fit spot on (I normally wear a 3). It's one of my favorite winter jackets actually. Probably too warm for Nigeria, but perfect for the cold east coast winter. Aw09 was one of my favorite yohji collections actually. I'm also very into the boiled wool blazers with the white cotton lining.
     
  2. cupper

    cupper Senior member

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    Coincidence, was browsing rakuten and just happened to see this very blazer.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  3. esox

    esox Senior member

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    jimu on rakuten has some nice stuff but not that cheap i would say.

    do you know some place where some can see better pictures of the cloth because on rakuten and yahoo the pics are mostly horrible, small and you hardly can see what you wanna buy.
     
  4. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Yeah, AW09 was a great YYPH collection, the last before the Y's for men demise, the bankruptcy, the take-over. A truly " carefree ", as in unwearable for some Runway pieces, season before everything now is designed more on saleability and a wider appeal.
     
  5. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    If it's a Runway piece, use fashion websites to get a better look of the garment in question. In the end, trust your instincts, buy something relatively cheap first so less impact on your wallet. By and large the Japanese are very careful owners, their rating of, say, 7 out of 10 is like brand new. I personally am more wary of eBay, quite a few dishonest sellers.
     
  6. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    i don't think the collection it's unwearable or braver than any other recent collections. just the styling it's pushed more into concept's direction.
     
  7. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    I mean some Runway pieces were very bold, pyjamas, robes, boxer shorts. Very conceptual like you said, AW09 is an epic season which I love. The quilted blazer and the long reversible coat were in V & A, outstanding pieces. Recent collections are more safe and dare I say slimmer in silhouette too.
     
  8. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Something I wore last evening, excuse poor pic quality
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH SS05 Look 17 linen blazer ( HY-J48-300 ) 100% linen, fully lined, 3B construction, tortoise shell buttons ( nice ), 4 black zipped pockets, black zips with red pulls, faintly dyed numbers next to pockets. The red pulls give the blazer a lift, left lapel is semi detachable. Sz 2 very oversized fit, great in motion
    YYPH SS09 Look 15 leather insert pants ( HV-P07-114 ) 100% laine wool, softer & thinner than 100, leather belt loops, back pocket flaps, and darts on side pockets by knees ( none of those can be seen lol ). Sz 3, hilariously oversized in waist, high waisted, very roomy = great.
    Y-3 black LS polyester asymmetical collar shirt, CDG H+ belt & Y's AW06 canvas/suede ankle boots.
     
  9. Auburn

    Auburn Senior member

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    I was wearing my blue rayon Yohji suit in the club and it was really nice to feel the fabric billowing around me. We talk a lot about how you have to see Yohji in motion in order to "understand" it but I think that the feeling of wearing Yohjis clothes while being in motion is also something that makes his designs so wonderful. There is an older ad with some young boys running on the beach towards the photographer/viewer wearing white shirts; it is an image that for me really captures this flowing sort of feeling.
     
  10. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    The slimmer silhouettes definitely started before any kind of post-AW09 era. Perhaps AW07 is some sort of transitional collection (most of it still fit pretty big) but by SS08 there was definitely a shift. SS08, AW08 AND AW09 all fit considerably slimmer in general, so this has nothing to do with slimming down the silhouettes to sell more after the restructuring.

    I agree with dante that the styling pushed aw09 in that direction (apparently insipred by his year in paris), but the pieces aren't really more daring than later on. Robes he's done many times before and after that collection, the construction worker style wide pants are like pleatleass hakamas. I think it's hard to claim that he designs "everything" on saleability and wider appeal post AW09 when he's sending out, for instance, full tapestry suits and a collection completely based on hakamas. There's been total showpieces later on too, like the silk velvet nude print coats, just to give one example.
     
  11. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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  12. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    i was thinking about this the other day while wearing the hakamas. when i looked down for a sec as I was walking I felt as if there were jelly fish propelling my legs forward. this might be the most bizarre post i've made on SF :laugh:
    maybe if i film it it makes more sense ...

    [​IMG]

    Unrelated note, I've tried emailing for the product code but to no avail...can anyone tell if these two are the same (different color but cotton twill) trousers

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    edit: HB-P01-007 ! they are same :teach:
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2012
  13. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    There was apparently a story behind those Looks on SS11 Runway. The SA in Conduit Street said a deal had been struck to hold the V&A Yohji Exhibition before the SS11 collection was completed. To return the compliment, Yohji wanted ( or was asked? ) to design a few pieces for the Runway using tapestry textiles from the V&A Textile Archive. Hence Look 1 to Look 6 ( bar the embroidered blazers and shirts ) seemed a bit disjointed from the rest of the show. My wife bought a should bag made of the exact fabric used in Look 6 in the V&A memorabilia shop after the exhibition.
     
  14. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

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    I read somewhere he wanted to make a psychedelic flower print collection as some kind of statement following the restructuring. Aw10 was his sort of return to form (and saleability), and ss11 was then a conceptual about face.
     
  15. esox

    esox Senior member

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    thx for the info. i will try it out with a cheaper item. lets see. i never bought something like this online.
     

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