Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. asobu

    asobu Senior member

    Messages:
    2,211
    Likes Received:
    583
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2007



    OJIISAN POST-FIGHT

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    7,764
    Likes Received:
    12,752
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    ;-)

    asobu, those Y's shows are fantastic. The AW 05 is especially great. Love those hooded overcoats and pretty much all of the suits. There were also a few "normal" pieces, like a simple knit and a bomber jacket that looked great too. I love that the styling and grooming were really basic. It shows how "wearable" the clothes really are.

    and, of course I love me some teddy-boy, rockabilly references, so I also really liked the AW04 collection. I have some creepers I will have to bust out sometime with a long blazer.

    loved the music for both shows as well. not that any of that really matters.

    out of curiosity, how was the Y's stuff marketed? was it sold in YY boutiques? same price point, same quality fabrics and construction?
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
  3. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

    Messages:
    4,314
    Likes Received:
    3,148
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Location:
    BKN, NYC, USA
    came across a Y's blazer in a secondhand store by chance today. I couldn't tell what year but pretty sure it was at least a few years old. No size marked either. Fit very well. It was long, but the length seemed deliberate. It was a one button with a low stance too, which added to the sense of length. i really liked it but can't buy anything at the moment, unfortunately. but I'll definitely be checking back for it. they also had a sample marked size 4. think that was a yohji costume d'homme piece.
     
  4. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

    Messages:
    982
    Likes Received:
    1,110
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2012
    

    That 1B Y's long blazer is not women's by any chance?
     
  5. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

    Messages:
    4,314
    Likes Received:
    3,148
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Location:
    BKN, NYC, USA
    could've been, I suppose. it was in the men's section but that probably doesn't mean anything.
     
  6. esox

    esox Senior member

    Messages:
    107
    Likes Received:
    47
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2012
    does anybody know for what the line costume d'homme from yohji stands? i think i remember me of beeing at the flagship store in london years ago and seeing some of the pinstripe suits. they were really expensive. thougt its something for the unconventional stock broker with loads of money. :)

    is it the more "classic" looking and fitting line?
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2012
  7. xumatrix

    xumatrix Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    28
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2011
    very interesting video, also the comments [​IMG]
     
  8. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2012
    From what I recall, Y's for men was sold in separate stores in Japan. The Y's women's line is still sold that way. If I'm not mistaken, at least in the Tokyo area, mainline yohji was actually a bit harder to come by back in the day. It was pretty much only sold at isetan in shinjuku, seibu in shibuya and the flagship in aoyama. Y's for men had separate locations in shinjuku, shibuya and roppongi, among others. With their own runway shows and ad campaigns, I would say it was pretty distinct. Many of the Y's locations were, and the women's line still is, in the "younger" themed malls in Tokyo, like marui and parco. Mainline collections, if they're in malls, are in the higher end ones.

    Prices were definitely lower than mainline. Pants were generally in the 30,000 to 40,000 yen price range. Mainline usually starts around 60,000 for a basic pair. T-shirts were around 10,000 to 15,000 I believe, where mainline usually starts around 16,800 for a plain tee. Jackets were around 60,000 to 80,000, where mainline jackets start around 80,000 and can go quite a bit higher. It was still not cheap by any stretch, especially outside of Japan. Quality was very comparable to the mainline. I think the main difference was that there were usually not as many crazy details with the Y's stuff (although there are exceptions) and the cuts were not quite as loose. Yohji mainline often spares no expense for the construction of the clothes, so I wouldn't say it was quite at that level. For the most part, Y's were simple, good quality clothes, often fairly basic and not overboard on the yohji fit. It acted as a good introduction to yohji's design philosophy in my opinion.
     
  9. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    7,764
    Likes Received:
    12,752
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    ^ thanks. that makes sense. I wonder why they stopped the Ys men line. was there too much crossover with the mainline? or was it collateral damage from the restructuring/bankruptcy ordeal.

    I finally had a chance to watch the AW 2008 show. very dramatic. those irridescent reds mixed with the blacks were lovely. I like how the models started out with their backs to the camera and then turned around and came back. and yeah, I believe that is indeed Yohji's voice at the end. maybe he's even playing guitar, too? :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2012
  10. valter

    valter Senior member

    Messages:
    136
    Likes Received:
    159
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    Yes, it's Yohji's music & voice through the entire show.
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2012
  11. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

    Messages:
    982
    Likes Received:
    1,110
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2012
    

    I believe, and that's purely my opinion, Y's for men lives on under the YYPH umbrella since its official demise after AW09, its last season. I'm basing this on the cuts of some of the clothes and even button choices on the stuff I've handled and owned since SS10. At this point, those who don't agree please don't shoot me.
     
  12. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

    Messages:
    9,457
    Likes Received:
    3,716
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2009
    — Honoré de Balzac

    I would rather be the boor, the rich man or the fool than the elegant man.

    Could post this in RFT but i think it's quite applicable here and more likely to get decent discussion
     
  13. Arche

    Arche Senior member

    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    107
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    Well, I just gave in to the billowing, siren-call of Yohji and purchased another item, this time the coat below. I was thinking about getting a simple black gabardine suit, either mainline or Y's, depending on what deals I could find (I'm so glad I discovered the Japanese auction sites, thanks to this thread!). However, in the end I decided that since it will be a while before I can afford to build up a Yohji wardrobe, at this point it makes sense to purchase some more unusual, distinctive show pieces, rather than more straightforward ones. I really like the antique, slightly 19th century look of this, with its hint of a smoking jacket.

    [​IMG]

    My other Yohji jacket just arrived (the one with the white tabs on the lapes I posted earlier), but either I didn't pay enough attention to the measurements, or they were a bit inaccurate, because it definitely fits smaller than I'd like. Annoying, because it's a lovely jacket. With those white accents, it goes brilliantly with a white shirt. I'll post some fit pics when I can. I'm still not decided if it works. It fits much more like a traditional blazer, even a bit on the short side at bottom, thought the sleeves are perfect. Assuming the measurements the seller gave are accurate, the coat above should fit more appropriately oversized.
     
  14. catastrophes

    catastrophes Member

    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2012
    Location:
    café nihilism
    the pic reminds me of a backstage fight yohji had with john lurie 20 years ago.
    the pieces on the beijing runway done under the name of Y's were all original and oneoffs meant to be sold at that auction that they held a few days later.
    sort of variations of the F/W 08 YY femme pieces.
    he wanted to use yagou / 屋号 ( that is Y's ) for his "main" line show, which he had not been able to back in paris. yagou sounds way cooler for him.
     
  15. asobu

    asobu Senior member

    Messages:
    2,211
    Likes Received:
    583
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2007
    ^lol, yeah, the 6.1 show? I think we had an interview with one of the other models up earlier in this thread, mentioning that incident I believe.

    There were surely reworks of the pour homme too, some of those handstitched pieces and coats with pleats at the bottom were pretty much straight out of the A/W 08 homme show. Definitely different from the "regular"/commercial Y's lines that season, where I liked some of the women looks quite a bit but didn't care much for the men's (with notable exceptions)

    Remind me, wasn't the funds from the auction donated to some cause as well?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by