Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Ok. Wow. Have you guys seen this? For some reason I've completely missed it though it's been up for a month. Some of you guys have probably seen this already but I don't think it's been posted in the thread? A bunch of full Y's and Y's for Men shows AW05 (last Y's runway) and before - and, pardon my french, some of this stuff is absolutely fucking incredible.

    Absolute must-sees:

    Y's in Beijing A/W 2008


    just the movement of that opening coat... I guess they used a bunch of signature mainline aw08 pieces for this collection and then added they Y's stuff too? Incredible collections. Is that Yohji's voice at the end?


    Y's For Men Pitti Uomo A/W 2005, full show:


    that beautiful gabardine at the start, those incredible grey and navy linen blends, the short cutaway color jackets, the gorgeous hooded cashmere blend coats, pretty much everything in this show is pretty incredible from start to finish. Just too bad we don't get to see the womens part

    Highly recommended:

    Short snippet of Max Vadukul shooting the Y's 2000 catalogue in Tokyo:


    Y's for Men A/W 2004:


    Y's for Men S/S 2004:

    (really fun styling, love how they just pile stuff on the models like they want to show as many clothes as possible per model, jeans worn around the waist, as scarves, extra pair of pants worn apron-style, knits worn on the waist, shirts backwards, upside down, reversed etc. Lots of denim, the embroided dark denim shirts are great, the red plaid stuff is worn reversed - the front side is made of a beautiful navy gabardine. Doesn't look much like a regular YY show I guess, but it's high quality stuff when seen as separates. Some of the shades or plaids or colors don't agree with me and the styling is ridiculous but still a fun show)

    Y's womens A/W 2004:
    http://vimeo.com/42971513


    Worth watching:

    Y's for Men S/S 2005:
    http://vimeo.com/42969315

    Y's womens S/S 2005:
    http://vimeo.com/42971512


    :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012


  2. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    You are the man Asobu![​IMG]

    Ivwri, the tartan jacket I wore that you commented on, it's on the Pitti Uomo Runway, cleverly layered over another 3B grey blazer, I tried that Look a long while ago at home, it's crazy but genius.I only have one 3B blazer with the exact button placement to make it work :)
     


  3. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Senior member

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    nice Asobu, downloaded them all. Thank you
     


  4. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thanks for that post asobu. Going through the vids now. I had been looking for Y's runways for a while now, but forgot to check vimeo!

    I think I saw a photo of that outfit you are talking about david. Looked really interesting, if a bit fussy, haha. Could be an interesting look for a winter though.

    Just picked up some Limi Feu and one YY mainline dress for my wife today (thanks to Parker's help!) for her birthday and they all worked out really well! Really nice stuff. The Yohji dress is a 56cupro/44cotton blend and feels extremely light. More like cotton than cupro, but the cupro gives it this smooth quality to the touch.

    The two Limi Feu items are a skirt and a really nice long waistcoat both in 100% wool. I don't know whether Limi Feu ever uses the same codes as her father, but the wool is a 180 wool and is so thin it is translucent once held up to the light. Good stuff.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012


  5. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Just my bad luck....or my wife's to be precise, YY Japan and Limi Feu SS sale started Sunday so I duly emailed SharpService with a list of things. They came back quoting retail prices and said the Sale hadn't started yet. Chased them up again just 2 hours ago, finally confirmed the misunderstanding but the 3 Runway Limi pieces my wife likes were sold out ( they were still available Sunday then ). Damn it.....
     


  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Oh yeah, forgot to reply to this. Was curious about a couple of the tshirts when I was looking for basics a while back, but it just didn't move me enough to consider doing a proxy order. Still holding out for when they stop being Japan only so I can see some stuff in person. Looks like they are slowly restarting COMING SOON in a way, but this time making it internet only. Could work...

    That's sad news david. Maybe you could check out lagarconne.com? Prices will be nowhere near as good as those from Japan, but if there's a piece in particular your wife really wanted (and they bought it) might be worth checking out. Their sale just started (30%) and should go lower one hopes.
     


  7. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    The s'yte stuff is weird, can't figure out what type of customer they're after. Can't really say I like much or any of it, though I find it funny that this cardigan has the exact same gold detailing as this YYPH A/W 92 jacket:

    [​IMG]

    Instead of (or in addition to?) making tacky graphic tees, sweatsuits and cdg hommme-esque patchwork shirts, perhaps they could use the line to reimagine some forgotten YYPH classics ? lol
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012


  8. AnImp

    AnImp Well-Known Member

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    Not yohji, but I'm curious how all y'all yohji fans feel about the trousers:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  9. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Senior member

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    The reworking of old pieces would be interesting and there is that vast archive to go through. But do they still do that with the NOIR line? That's still around right? It's female only though isn't? Not gonna lie though, have a pair of NOIR pants that my mother gave me... they certainly fit like mens.
     


  10. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Yep, +Noir is a women's line. I don't know if it's ever been a line of YY femme reworks though?

    Runner:
    I love +Noir, I still think it works very well as a compliment to the mainline and is definitely more toned down and "wearable" in lovely fabrics. The last 3 collections were posted over on SZ recently, still look pretty great and there is definitely some detailing connected to the mainline collections.
     


  11. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Senior member

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    I always thought it was inspired by classic YY piece and their schtick was changing a few things each collection but keeping a few things from previous ones. Not that it matters though, I won't be buying from the womens line :D
     


  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Was going to post in WAYWT, but I might as well do it here. I think the pants look alright based on these pics. It will all depend on the shoes and the shirt you choose to go with at the end of the day. The fact that they are cropped and have pleats on the sides make them interesting without being too over the top in my opinion. Definitely should;t have any trouble wearing them in a chocolatier and they are definitely much better than chinos :devil:





    I have been hoping that we would get a Noir-type line for menswear, but I guess that is not in the pipeline for a while yet. It would be cool if s'yte ended up evolving into something with a bit more meat on its bones that could serve as a replacement for COMING SOON, at the moment, it lacks any proper identity and just seems to be a random project. Maybe they are being very cautious with the amount of money they spend on setting it up, looking for their 'staple item' before committing to making it have a better focus. Recently I was looking at their output on the tumblr page and their website and it made me think of CdG Play. Graphic heavy throwaway items for people who may not even know the parent brand at all. Even though things seem to sell out on the store quite enough times, I do feel like they may kill it in the near future.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012


  13. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Thanks for the info Ivwri, I'll check it out.

    On the other hand, the Limi waistcoat you bought for your wife, it's not the Look 41 vest on the Runway is it? If it is, consider yourself cursed! ( lol, only kidding man ) because that's one of 3 that my wife likes, it has a LA- code on the Limi Feu iPad app Lookbook though, weird....
     


  14. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    i'm watching the first y's show in beijing.

    http://www.yoox.com/item/YOOX/YOHJI...B84CE7A2/rr/1/cod10/59125087CM/sts/sr_women80

    !!
     


  15. Auburn

    Auburn Senior member

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    Cross post from WAYWT

    [​IMG]
    Cos/YYPH/Converse

    These wool gab. trousers, along with my rayon trousers, have become part of my summer uniform. The heat and humidity here are absolutely terrible; I don't understand how people here are running around in skinny jeans. It boggles my mind.
     


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