Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[elephantstone]

Upon on first glance, Look 15 and 19 are probably my favorites, love the use of purple there! !

Damn you Yohji, after what you've done to my wallet with the gorgeous SS12 collection, you show no sign of stopping

on a side note, the footwear this season looks really solid. Would like to see more

 

[Bam!ChairDance]

Parker, post that **** in WAYWT. So good

 

[valter]

Just a couple of photos for now:



Yohji and me at the after-show cocktail party.



Detail of Yohji's back at the party.

 

[Ivwri]

That fit is great Parker. Love how you make Yohji look so easy. Still something I am working on myself, really like the stripes.

As for the bruising, I believe that it is Yohji's way of showing that he is still fashion's rebel in a way. Like he has not only been through a rough patch earlier, but that he is still fighting the establishment and coming out on top. The "For Sale" sign on his back was also probably his way of saying that he is on a roll right now and so anyone who wants to should name their price to see if they can entice him to come do stuff for them, hehe.

I really like this show because since the 2011 collection it looks like Yohji has been gradually getting back to himself again with more humour and creativity in his shows. The references to martial arts clothing - with the flowing, cropped pants - and fighting (the torn shirts and bruising) all bring to mind someone who is vibrant and masculine yet also approachable and full of fun. I guess Yohji is channeling his feelings and view of himself as a man through the clothing. I wouldn't be surprised at all if his next collection referenced music and musicians.

Will probably wait until I see a video to select favourite looks, but the gradient dye pieces, the indigo colours, the gorgeous voluminous pants and the string details on the jackets are all winners in my book. I will definitely get at least one of the those jackets from look 11 (the inner jacket), 31, 34, and one of the long shirts from either looks 19, 31, 32 in my wardrobe next year for sure though. As has been said already, the footwear looks really solid again. Sigh, looks like I get to look forward to being broke next year. Between this and Aitor Throup hopefully launching as well I am going to be in trouble

Hm, tough decision dante. You could score great points by giving it to your lady , it would also mean you have something nice to look at whenever she wears it.

 

[AnImp]

I am slowly easing into Yohji-esque aesthetics, but I'll agree that the cropped, voluminous pants look awesome.

Mostly I'm crossing my fingers that the items on shelves don't all embrace the elastic at the base. Hakamas were awesome, Hakamas with elastic? Less so.

 

[davidlee388]

Just a couple of photos for now:



Yohji and me at the after-show cocktail party.



Detail of Yohji's back at the party.

Notice the " grenade hooks " at the sides of his " uniform ". I wondered what they were for when I bought the SS11 YYPH version of this blazer ( Japan only I believe ) last year on Y! in sz 3. Later on I saw this re-issued again for SS12 on yohjiyamamoto shinjuku marui men FB page with the proper explanation lol.

Sadly my aspiration for the ultimate " Yohji " look ( we have similar height, I'm probably slightly taller ) was dashed when I found out it didn't fit! It suffered small armhole syndrome badly and just tight all round.... So it's been packed away with tags still attached waiting for the day when I'm 10kg thinner...gutted

 

[Ivwri]

I was just going to post that I don't understand why Yohji still seems to be getting a bit of a short shrift on so many of the fashion websites and blogs (this collection is not even listed yet on the vogue.com page!), and then I saw this review over on style.com -

"Bruised defiance" would make a nice subtitle for a Yohji Yamamoto autobiography. The designer, so instrumental to the rise of Japanese fashion in the 1980's, has fallen out of the center of fashion's conversation—and into bankruptcy and back—in recent years, but never given up the fight. Bruised defiance was certainly the look he courted tonight, when he sent out models with black eyes and cuts on their faces. On they soldiered, and so does he. But it was hard not to notice that, though the room was full, attendance among American editors was at an all-time low. (Retailers, for the record, were somewhat better represented.) Those absent missed a solid, likable show, the main message of which was volume: billowing, shortened pants, mostly, tied off at the bottom or gathered with elastic, complemented with two-button jackets or long, thin coats. The colors were unusually lovely, too, in combinations like salmon and orange, or salmon and creamy sky blue. Still, it felt like Yohji doing Yohji. A few more surprises might help to lure some of those editors back.

This is pretty frustrating to read for me. Apart from my inherent bias towards his designs meaning that I would like more people to like them as well, shouldn't the fashion editors be covering his stuff even if for nothing else than that he has been a hugely influential designer (more so than just being instumental to the rise of Japanese fashion in the 80s he is also partly responsible for the rise of the Belgian style that they love so much now)? I get that the fashion industry wants to be shocked and surprised, but I see them giving tons of coverage to people like Raf Simons (see the glowing review his current collection got) or Rick who despite any opinions one may have about their recent output cannot be said to be surprising and shocking. Raf doing short shorts and nice jackets? Rick doing dresses and his play with rectangular proportions? I don't get it. This kind of provides more anecdotal evidence that maybe the US (or even the West?) just doesn't innately go for Yohji's type of style like Parker had mentioned in an earlier discussion.

Anyway, not that it matters in the long run. Yohji likes being anti-establishment and I guess this is a good sign that he is in the right space. Plus, it is good to read that there were quite a few buyers in attendance! Means more Yohji available in the shops right?

 

[Ivwri]

Napoleon cubist jacket with the colored fabric patches on the back is up for sale on SZ in a size 3. If this was a size 4 I would have grabbed it in a heartbeat. Someone should give this a good home. LINK

 

[Guy Burgess]

thats the one i tried on the other day, it's a great jacket.

 

[davidlee388]

Napoleon cubist jacket with the colored fabric patches on the back is up for sale on SZ in a size 3. If this was a size 4 I would have grabbed it in a heartbeat. Someone should give this a good home. LINK

Look 32!!!! 94k retail. Why would the guy want to sell it??

 

[Auburn]

I get that the fashion industry wants to be shocked and surprised, but I see them giving tons of coverage to people like Raf Simons (see the glowing review his current collection got) or Rick who despite any opinions one may have about their recent output cannot be said to be surprising and shocking. Raf doing short shorts and nice jackets? Rick doing dresses and his play with rectangular proportions? I don't get it. This kind of provides more anecdotal evidence that maybe the US (or even the West?) just doesn't innately go for Yohji's type of style like Parker had mentioned in an earlier discussion.

I think you are overrating the value of editors, whose job it is not to further aesthetics (this is for artists to do), but to sell products. Raf Simons and Rick remain "relevant" due to them being a sort of popular high-fashion, as referenced in stuff like this Asap Rocky line "Raf Simons, Rick Owens usually what I'm dressed in". I'm sure that if Kanye began showing up at Yohji's shows, the response would be different. As it is, Yohji is not a mass market brand, which will leave editor attendance and media coverage scant.

 

[bosatlbwi]

I don't think I could ever wear yohji properly due to my height, but, ss13 is amazing and probably my favorite show so far, besides maybe missoni.

 

[PregnantBob]

how tall are you? I'm wondering about this assertion since a lot of people have been saying that, but i see Japanese guys rocking it all the time and a lot of them are barely 5'7

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

Editors seem to walk a line between praising what's already popular and trying to figure out what's going to be popular next. For the most part, they're not really independent thinkers objectively evaluating what's out there. They follow the crowd at least as much as they lead it.

 

[Parker]

Vogue Italia posted the new show last night. They also included detail shots. Some interesting footwear including canvas plain toe with wedge sole and the Keds-style tennies. Also, I really like that transparent blazer in Looks 27 and 34 which I missed the first time around. Do I even see one of the jacket might be a raincoat?