Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    It's from Fall 2007, some showroom pics on SZ



    edit: dammit
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2012
  2. thatoneguy

    thatoneguy Senior member

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    Asobu, I can only see the picture when I click the link, or copy and paste the URL
     
  3. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah same here asobu. Only clicking the link works. Must be a problem with the image host and SF not playing nice.
     
  4. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Damn. Oh well, I edited my post so you should be able to see them now..?
     
  5. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I can see the edited post with the womenswear 96 collection photos, but none of the others.

    Just curious about Yohji styling... I see he sometimes does full suits ("coordinating ensembles" is probably a better term.). Are they meant to be always together or do you think some things can be worn as separates? How easy is mixing from different fabrics or collections? How are the looks merchandised in the stores?
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2012
  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I think that a lot of the ensembles on the runway can be (and are) worn as separates. Whether it's pants or jackets/tops you can always style them with some other pieces as you require once the fabric is similar/contrasts in the right way. I haven't bought any actual "suits" from Yohji, but even with those I am pretty sure a jacket from any of them would not look as "orphaned" as that from most traditional suit makers would if worn apart from the suit trousers and vice versa.

    Yohji also tends to do a lot of work with the same fabrics in my experience. Various weights and blends of Wool gabardine, cotton and of course, linen. Everything else he works with tends to go pretty well with any of these. I have mixed items from AW11, SS11, AW10, SS08 and plan to do even more and I don't have any issues at all. Yohji seems to work within a universe of fabrics and concepts that he keeps on iterating on so generally speaking you could probably wear something made in 95 with something made in 2012.

    In the few stores I have seen Yohji stocked, the styling on the mannequins is different from that on the runway for sure. For example -

    YYPH store on Rue Cambon in Paris (AW11 collection)

    [​IMG]

    Boutique in Basel, Switzerland with YYPH stuff (all from AW10 I believe)

    [​IMG]

    They go well together I think :).
     
  7. andrewgreg

    andrewgreg Senior member

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    so customer are not allowed to take any pics in Yohji stores?
     
  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Well, I took loads in the Yohji store on Rue Cambon in Paris. I was referring to the Rick store in Atelier New York. I had heard that some boutiques did not allow photos and when Unc mentioned the Atelier SAs getting pissed at him taking pictures it began to feel like something more common than I previously thought.
     
  9. Fycus

    Fycus Senior member

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  10. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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    I think many stores do not allow photos. Pretty annoying policy imo, makes me think of some bullshit air of exclusivity. You should be happy if people find your store cool enough to want to photograph it and/or share those photos.
     
  11. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Parker, I echo what Ivwri said about the styling and in my opinion it's very easy to wear stuff together that was produced 5, 10 or 15 year apart without it looking out of place. One of the things I love about Yohji's clothes is how easy (generally) they are to size and wear, there's not a lot of need to think about styling, it usually comes together very naturally when you throw it on. Grab it, put it on and be on your way. Of course there's a lot of room to experiment with proportions and textures as well, but a lot of it doesn't really need styling. He does looks/suits/set-ups but most or all of them works perfectly fine as separates. The only real "suit collections" I can recall right now are ss03 and particularly ss09, for the latter I think the suits are meant to be worn as suits to some extent but there's always room to play around as they're so deconstructed that jackets in this case work fine by themselves.


    Love this mermaid print coat from AW91


    [​IMG]
     
  12. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    That coat looks so good. Details?
     
  13. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    afaik, 100% silk velvet with 7 or so different panels of patterns screen printed (randomly?) on to the fabric. Cost a fortune I believe, but shit is on 40% sale in Japan now so perhaps you can have a proxy pick one up? I'd also love to have one of those!


    edit: btw, that is a great fit. :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2012
  14. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    I think it would still be more than I could spend at the moment, but it's still nice to admire from afar. Agree, that fit looks great.
     
  15. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Heh, thanks guys.

    asobu is correct about the details. Not sure whether the print was random actually as I only had a look at the one they had in my size. Retail in Paris was almost 3000 euros :slayer: The feel of the fabric was amazing and like all of his jackets it sits very nicely on the body, feels almost weightless.

    Was so tempted, but in the end reason prevailed as I would have blown quite a bit of my shopping budget on one item :lol:. Now I am pissed that asobu has reminded me of how nice the blazer is I just have to find out whether it is still available to pick up in Japan :fu: Highly doubt it though (I hope! SS2012 beckons!)
     

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