Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    which you guys would say best with hakamas and other cropped pants ? obviously the yohji would go well but would the ann do equally well ? i kinda like the thick soles on them..

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  2. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    shah, did you pick up anything other than the hakamas on your trip? the pics looked great.
     
  3. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    Thanks ! I did not get anything else. Well I was in paris for just half a day, but after London--where there's a yohji store awaiting my visit-- I'll be back there again so I wasn't in a rush to deplete my account so quickly :eek:
     
  4. syed

    syed Well-Known Member

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    shah I think either would go, it's down to which would be most versatile with the rest of your wardrobe. The prices I've seen around for the Yohji trainers are reasonably good now, so pick them up if you think blue would work better I guess. I actually really want to get a pair of the non-holey Anns some time in the future (will give the dip dye ones for this F/W a miss though).
     
  5. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    for anyone interested, Hotoveli in NYC is where I tried on all the Yohji pieces (and ultimately purchased the Damir pants). they have really wonderful customer service, and their s/s stock is almost all 70% off now, so if there's a particular item you're looking for you may try giving them a call.
     
  6. syed

    syed Well-Known Member

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    I've actually been thinking quite a lot about the comparison between Yohji and Vivienne's work. The tailoring is as you say amazing with both, but I am also interested in how they both approach history and their particular styles of referencing the past to create something for the present (...or seeing as it is fashion, the moment right after the present). VW's work is meticulous in the referencing and construction techniques of historical dress, although admittedly fused with other periods, and even then the techniques are subverted or altered, all in the same garment. She does some serious research in her work, and I really like that, because it shows a dedication to dressmaking to a level that most cannot or do not attempt. In much the same way Yohji's clothing has to be seen in person, has to be worn, before you can really appreciate the full extent of the work. Yes VW's work is more in your face, whereas Yohji's is tends to be more subdued by comparison, but I think there are definitely elements and ideas that overlap quite nicely.
     
  7. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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  8. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Sorry about the last post, completing messed up the formatting thanks to my not-very-useful phone:(

    Asobu, fancy compiling a list of fabric codes? I know it's probably a huge task but since fabrics are such important backbones to Yohji's work ( the desired silhouettes of his creations depend so heavily on the types of fabric as well as the tailoring ) it would be interesting to see how his use of fabrics evolves throughout his career so far. Also the list can be useful for us to track down matching blazers and pants in auctions to complete a runway look for example. Everyone here can contribute from the pieces they have. Well?? Imagine season codes together with fabric codes will make this the best Yohji thread in the universe :)
     
  9. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    david, there's a list of fabric codes that ivwri compiled on the first page of the thread. don't know if it's everything you're looking for, but here it is again

    Fabric codes for various seasons.

    HB -- SS 95, SS 00, AW 06, SS12
    HC -- SS 99, AW10
    HE -- AW 95, SS 02, AW 08
    HF -- SS 96
    HG -- AW 96
    HI -- AW 97
    HJ -- SS 98, AW 04, SS 10
    HM -- AW 02, SS 08
    HN -- AW 99, AW 05
    HO - SS 93, SS 11
    HP - AW 93, AW 11
    HQ -- SS 03
    HR -- SS 06
    HS -- AW92
    HT -- SS 94, AW 00, SS 07
    HU -- SS97, AW 03
    HV -- AW 94, AW 01, SS 09
    HX -- SS 01, AW 07
    HY -- AW 98, SS 05
    HZ -- SS 04, AW 09
     
  10. indesertum

    indesertum Senior member

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  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    p4 those are the season codes. Fabric codes are the last three numbers on every YY product code.

    e.g HB - J49 - 100 (HB is season code, J49 is the kind of jacket since J is usually code for jacket of some sort and 100 is the fabric code, in this case wool gabardine).

    Funnily enough I was thinking about compiling a list based on stuff I have and the product list from this season then people could contribute stuff based on their own items. I think I will still do it actually. Will reserve a post for it at some point and link to it in the OP again once we have enough content. We will definitely need everybody's help in making the list though, people like you who have really old pieces would be invaluable to making it comprehensive, heh.
     
  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Might as well make this the reserved post. Will keep updating it and then add the content to the OP after we get a good amount. Any ideas for the format would be great.

     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2012
  13. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    oh, my bad. should've read more carefully. guess that's what happens when you're doing several things at once :(
     
  14. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    to keep digging in the archives - here's a small treat for us who don't have the old catalogues/lookbooks:

    eddy kohli
    (A/W 83-84?)


    max vadukul
    (A/W 84-85 + S/S 85)


    paolo roversi
    (A/W 85-86)


    nick knight 01
    (A/W 86-87)


    nick night 03
    (A/W 87-88 + S/S 88)


    nick knight 02
    (S/S 88 + A/W 88-89 + S/S 90)
    http://vimeo.com/44649502

    david sims
    (A/W 95-96 + S/S 96)
    http://vimeo.com/44650880

    koto bolofo
    (?)
    http://vimeo.com/44648973
     
  15. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    AUTUMN-WINTER 1996-1997

    "Scissor work, minimal rough cuts,
    design work over structured shapes.
    Felt, a humble material, becomes a
    sublime, noble casing. And always an
    emphasis on the back, a delicately
    erotic focal point."

    Part 1 of 7

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]

     

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