Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not sure I've seen too many "Hollywood types" or "rock stars" wearing YY. ;-) Then again, I don't really hang out with Hollywood types or rock stars.

    Sorry for bringing the discourse level down a notch with that one. I found it sort of fascinating how a Bravo-style show would cover Yohji.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2012
  2. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    yeah the long jacket suits are the standouts for me in this collection. The video is hilarious though, haha. Amazing quotes, px4. It's too bad they cut out some of the best parts of the collection. I do like the ripped/unconstructed lapel suits (some in 100% silk I believe) but I'm not sure if I'd wear them. My favorite looks is the long jacket with the pleats (calling dibs now, lol) worn with the open side knit. The cut in most of these jackets are HUGE, definitely old-school super boxy cuts, even the 3s look very big on me in most of these jackets. The patchwork shirts were also cut really wide in the chest.



    warmer today, finally, after a few cold days. Please excuse the ridiculous pose, not really sure what's going on with those feet...


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    The jacket is YYPH from ss09, the fabric is incredibly light (linen/cupro blend), the side panels are made out of ramie under a layer of silk mesh. It's hard to capture in photos but looks great in person. Moderately slim through the body, sleeves are quite long, pretty much standard ss09 cut I think. I'm really happy with how it fits though, it's super comfortable and so easy to wear. One of my go-to jackets for spring and summer. The pants are ss01 yyph, mohair/wool blend that sounds heavy and warm on paper but is amazingly light weight and airy, one of the lighter pairs I've got. I love this cut, the front rise is pretty deep and with the small taper they're quite well balanced, imo.

    Usually I wear a relaxed crewneck t-shirt with this jacket but decided to go with a v-neck (muji) today. I think v-necks work better with more fitted casual jackets (for instance, fuumas last fit) so I usually prefer crewnecks on wider/boxier cuts like YY jackets. Shoes are black/black cons.
     
  3. valter

    valter Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Wool felt hat, long wool gabardine coat, cotton shirt, wool gabardine drawstring hakama, canvas shoes, all by YYPH.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2012
  4. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    So does anyone know what construction or dyeing techniques were used for some of the more intricate patterened pieces of ss12?

    I was doing a quick search on kagasuri, the pattern on this jacket, which I love (cut, pattern and fabric):

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    I'm pretty sure this is 100% silk, but has anyone seen this in person? They didn't stock it at the London store unfortuantely.


    Anyway, I found this:



    more here


    sounds like pretty demanding work, absolutely love the results here. I'm guessing the fabric for the Yohji jackets was created in a similar fashion.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2012
  5. valter

    valter Senior member

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    More detailed (& bad quality) pictures of the long wool gabardine coat in my fit pic:

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    The fabric is 199. Softer than Yohji's regular wool gabardines (this gabardine style weave is more subtle and the fabric is not so tightly woven). Drapes beautifully. Hand stitching all around.

    Classic pre-2000 fit, very fully cut. Dropped shoulders. Sleeves are so long that only the fingertips are exposed. As it is unlined, it hangs on the wearer gracefully.

    One of my favorite pieces.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2012
  6. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    ^wow! coat looks fantastic! do you know what season? what's the tag code? i want one too!
     
  7. valter

    valter Senior member

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    Thanks! The code is HV-C22-199. Maybe you know what season it was?
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2012
  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Really great coat indeed. Love the stitching and the pocket detail on the front. Very cool.

    End of a long day. Traveling back home tomorrow so looking forward to that :)


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  9. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    great looks all around today lads :nodding:


    yeah, it's AW94. It's hard to tell from this shitty photo but it's a coat iteration of this cutaway jacket (same details/stitching on the lapels etc)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2012
  10. valter

    valter Senior member

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    Oh, indeed it is! Thanks!

    I've seen that photo, but haven't been able connect it with the coat before.

    By the way asobu, you should really do a list of the pre-2000 YY tag codes if possible. I've got a lot of stuff that I haven't been able to connect with the specific collections.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2012
  11. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Asobu, this Look 28 jacket has the same pattern as the Look 10 in ?? colour ( what colour would you call that? ) And Look 10 was in Conduit Street store. That one is 100% silk for sure. £1760 retail..ouch..
     
  12. cowerd

    cowerd Senior member

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    FYI, just one eye has gone to 60% off.
    Still some red hakamas left and a good smattering of sizes in jackets and shirts.
     
  13. Working Stiff

    Working Stiff Senior member

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    I found a y's for men overcoat at a thrift store yesterday. Perfect condition, pure silk, made in Japan. Can still hardly believe it. Putting it up for sale because I need the money :(
     
  14. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    today we casted berthhold rothas for missoni's menswear show and couldn't resist to ask him about yohji... it's will be his 4-5 season for yohji??.. i asked what he it's like and he said that he it's like Yoda [​IMG] very little, doesn't talk at all during castings and fittings, just thinking with his crossed legs and hand on his chin. he said he has his own aura and nothing can't disturb him. also surrounded with 10 assistants, who running around like crazy. i asked if he got any free stuff from the shows and he said that he can keep the socks only but he will ask for blazer this time. [​IMG] he had his hair trimmed, hopefully that won't change yoda's mind and not include him in the show...
    i have fitting with him tomorrow, will try to get more gossip :D

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  15. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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