Yet another thread about ordering a Jantzen

[wEstSidE]

Well I don't have time to wade through the 12848298912 threads/posts about Jantzen, and I don't mean to be smug, I actually am pressed for time. Regardless, I only have a few questions:
1. Should I have a person I trust measure me, or should I go to a tailor of some sort? I live in a small town so these are hard to find.
2. What kind of pleat should I get in order to ensure a slim fit? I understand that side pleats make the back roomier, but what about a middle box pleat?
3. I'm going to order the RLPL Keaton-type collar as suggested, but I don't know the specifications for it. The original poster of the thread on it said the collar was too long, but never stated the length. Could anyone with the actual shirt measure the collar, if that is not too much trouble.
4. I need this shirts in somewhat of a hurry (around a month to 6 weeks if possible). From what I understand this is no longer a regular occurence for the guys at Jantzen. How should I go about placing an order to ensure speediness? I understand that the fact that I'm ordering a custom collar doesn't help, but what are other things I can do to save time. An extra tip, perhaps? Perhaps one of the HK regulars could help me with this? I'm going to have surgery on my leg in about a month or so and that will take up a ridiculous amount of time for recovery, and I appreciate any help. Thank you in advance for everyone here at SF.

Edit: By the way, I have a favorite shirt that I can have them copy, will this save time?

 

[DocHolliday]

1. I'd make sure that whoever measures me knew what they were doing. A well-trained professional would be ideal. How your shirt turns out will depend entirely on the measurements you submit.
2. Box pleats are effectively worthless. I'd go with side pleats.
3. Can't help you here, I'm afraid.
4. There's no rushing Jantzen. I wouldn't depend on them if you need the shirts right away. That will only lead to heartbreak and frustration.
5. I've heard very mixed results on sending shirts to be copied. What I did was submit both my measurements and the measurements of a well-fitting shirt, with very specific details about what I wanted done. Turned out great.

Good luck!

 

[Spencer Young]

1. It can't hurt to have measurements professionally taken. Regardless, don't order a massive number of shirts until you've got a few to tweak.
2. When I was in the shop, Ricky explained to me that the box pleat is a purely American "I don't know what I'm doing" sort of thing. Apparently they don't really give you extra flexibility like the side pleats do, and they can mess up the consistency of your pattern/stripes/whatever. I'd go with side pleats, if I were you.
3. Can't help you on that regard, sorry.
4. Knowing that in-store customers can get shirts within a week, I feel like a rush job is somehow possible. I don't think the custom collar will make it any slower, since all shirts they make are essentially full-custom. Do you need these shirts before surgery for some reason? Your best bet for a rush job is to submit the order online and then call two days later describing your position/willingness to tip. Not sure how that will turn out though, personally.

I've heard they can copy your favorite shirt, but I'm sure that would only make the process take longer; you'd have to wait for them to receive and measure the shirt rather than just receiving the online order.

If I were still in HK, I'd just go to the shop for you with your measurements and get the shirts made in a week or two, and then just ship them over. Maybe someone on the forum can help you out in that regard?

 

[wEstSidE]

How did you put in the order? Phone or by email/internet?

 

[Spencer Young]

Internet site has an orderform. http://www.jantzentailor.com/orderform.htm

 

[wEstSidE]

Anybody else?

 

[DocHolliday]

I placed my first by Internet, but in retrospect, I probably should have faxed it, for more security. Such is the dangerous lifestyle I lead.

 

[Jovan]

Go with no back pleats and split yoke, WS.

 

[wEstSidE]

Eh, my surgery date moved to the 28th. Fuckin' A. I'll probably pester them by phone. Does anyone here from HK go there often enough to pester them as a proxy? BTW don't feel too sympathetic, I'm going to be in the hospital for only around 3 days (if nothing goes wrong, last time took 2 goddamn weeks), and I get to stay in a really luxurious place (not covered by insurance, I'm not driving your rates up) with a chef.