Yet another shirt sleeve dilemma...

[Azhar]

Hi guys, I have been wondering what is my sleeve size lately...I bought 2 extra slim fit CT non iron shirts in store, 15.5-35 and when I tried them they seemed a bit too long, if I left them at their normal cuff size (I have small wrists and palms) they were falling too low but the arm wasn't showing much slack, problem was when wearing the jacket there was a bit too much of material to show.
I learned a good thing from SF, to move the button, so I pinned the cuff and it stopped the shirt from riding to low and actually showing that 0.5 properly but there was too much extra material on the forearm.
The shirt is nice fit for my body (not to pretentious, just starting to dress and change wardrobe) but my arms thin and the sleeve is not , add to that extra material, I wasn't sure, so when I saw they have the shirts in 34" I replaced them.
Now with 34" the shirt is nice, I like it when hands are down next to body, but when I move my arms (picture Hitler salute) or other substantial movements the shirt rides a bit past the wrist bone.
when the shirt is unbuttoned the cuff doesn't go that much to touch the "V"
Now, I have another 35" shirt, this is different than the first lot of 35" . the collar is a bit bigger, the sleeve measures somewhere at 34 3/4 and it feels better, maybe because it's poplin or it is just a different cut.
Is it me? or is the shirt? The shirts are non iron so they won't shrink (so I heard), and even with the 34" pinned (move button) I still show cuff (of course that is related with my jacket cuff cut)
Should I go for 35 back and at some point if it's the case shorten it to 34.5? (spending extra money)
Or should I just stick with them and maybe risking to lose money?
I think the riding part is related to my body and actual cut of the shirt, arm hole etc... even the 35" gingham (which is 34 3/4) acts the same, although not at the same level.

I will put a dropbox link, the sky blue is the 34 and the purple gingham is the 35. Some pics with pinned cuff some normal and some unbuttoned.
I watched some youtube videos like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Kof8eGOSrk&list=LLT6Z4tWhHdeZURXGtSAVeuw
minute 3.36
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/k05lkqhrbagmgdw/BZBI8kN1V-

Please let me know, I know this issue with sleeve is like the holy Graal so I hope that at least my post will help adding an input in finding it.

 

[Azhar]

I guess I could bump this...sorry if I'm not allowed

 

[Ivar]

Wow, you've really put a lot of thought into this. I would check out this post at Put This On:

http://putthison.com/post/20470105056/the-custom-shirts-series-part-ii-how-should-a

To which I would add that you'll want to wash your new shirts at least three times before having them altered. This goes for non-iron shirts, too, even though they generally shrink less than untreated shirts. Another good practice is to buy all your shirts in the same configuration from the same outlet. That way, you'll be reasonably sure that the measurements line up every time. Last of all, the bunching above the wrist is a classic feature of many shirt designs and shouldn't be a matter of concern unless it looks cumbersome.