- Sep 19, 2003
- Reaction score
Fair enough - hand vs. machine stitching for shirts is a matter of preference. You(JCusey), Thracozaag, Naturlaut and others prefer hand stitching, and I certainly respect that.
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And likewise, I think Charvet and Lorenzini make excellent shirts and they are machine-stitched.Fair enough - hand vs. machine stitching for shirts is a matter of preference. Â You(JCusey), Thracozaag, Naturlaut and others prefer hand stitching, and I certainly respect that.
While I appreciate your aesthetic preference for a clear look on a white shirt, I simply abhor plastic buttons...almost as much as I abhor plastic keys on a piano (although the synthetics they use now are much better).thracozaag, i understand what you mean about plastic buttons, but on a solid white shirt, i really think clear looks better than yellow. if there were a natural material (glass?) that was used to make clear buttons, i'd certainly opt for that over plastic. when it comes to clothes, i think looks are paramount. for example, if you offered me a handmade cashmere suit, i'd be interested, but if you told me it was mustard yellow, i'd say no thanks, even though the construction and materials were excellent.
when i said "personalisation", i was including fit into the equation.
i know not every guy in italy is wearing a kiton shirt, but from what i see, every guy in a suit is wearing a high, wide spread collar, with a loosely tied windsor knot, even the young guys. every italian dress shirt i've seen in the last 4 or 5 years has the same type of collar. look at the guys in a collared shirt not wearing a tie, and you'll notice almost every single one of them has a two-button collar. i'm not saying it looks bad or anything, it's just not my style. it's someone else's.
almost as much as I abhor plastic keys on a piano (although the synthetics they use now are much better).Quote:
My opinions on Jantzen shirt was not a comparison with any one else - where in the 'review' do you see me mentioning Borrelli or Charvet? I like different shirtmakers for their own specialty, not just Kiton, and Kiton is not generic either --- have you made a comparison even between the Neapolitans from Kiton to Borrelli to Barba? Â Whether others follow a certain style is of no concern to me, moreover, you can put this argument to any other point of styling: you are bound to be choosing something that others are already wearing. Â Also, I did take the shirt out from the bag, otherwise how could I see the armhole and the monogram?i don't see how naturlaut can say the fabric looks stiff if he only saw it inside a plastic bag. Â i think it's best not to compare jantzen shirts to expensive custom shirts, but to the rtw shirts so many men buy. i have all my custom shirts made in the exact same style, and i like to wear my own design. i know naturlaut likes kiton shirts, but if i wore one of those, i'd feel like i was wearing some generic design that every man in italy is wearing right now. i watch italian television, and when something is in style, it seems everybody follows it.
I wouldn't exactly lean completely on machine stitching or hand stitching, as each has its own merits. Â However, I haven't had any problems with Borrelli or Kiton, on the other hand, I have threads coming loose from machine-stitched shirts ... Â In any case, as long as you don't step foot in these Neapolitan makers, you have a wide selection of machine-made shirts. My final comment: if you have not yet the courage (and in my case, the accumulated wealth) to try makers from the bigger houses, Jantzen is a good choice for a custom shirt. Â Picking the fabric may be tricky, but you can get pretty much anything you want; they won't say no to any styling eccentricities from you. Â However, other options exist if you have doubts about Jantzen, namely getting a good ready-made from Kiton to Zegna Napoli Couture and have them altered to fit you. Â Kiton tailors are happy to remodel the whole shirt to fit you, and Zegna Napoli Couture even does it for free in Hong Kong (a one to two month wait): they could alter the body, and sleeves (of course), the sleeve buttons according to thickness of your wrist, and even the shoulders --- and if you like, put a little monogram on the shirt too ... and rest assured, these Kiton or Napoli Couture monogram are all beautifully hand embroidered.I strongly believe that machine stitching is the way to go with shirts. Â
i meant that for you to criticize the fabric, you would have to be comparing the fabric to shirts that cost much more.My opinions on Jantzen shirt was not a comparison with any one else - where in the 'review' do you see me mentioning Borrelli or Charvet?
As much as one is picky about something, it's another thing to have the same thing everyday. I think we are all a picky (and hard-to-please) bunch, but I also believe that most of you have a diversity of styles in your wardrobe (do correct me if I am wrong), from shirts to suits to shoes. If you think all Italians look the same, try looking at the English. Actually, in my opinion, they are all different (from Brioni to Kiton to Turnbull to Charvet), and as I have said, unless you have been visiting Jantzen alot, a custom from Kiton to Turnbull is going to be very different even with your own stylistic specifications.it's just a matter of preference. both ways will put a shirt on your back, but i think custom will give you more for your money - unless you're not picky about the style being your own.
On the Kiton shirts that I have, the shoulders aren't pattern-matched because of the puckering, but the sleeve plackets are. What's more, the horizontal lines in the checks are matched at the side seams, which is something that I've never seen before.I've just looked through my Kiton shirts (custom and ready made) and realise that patterns do match. Â However, since the armhole is attached by tucking into the shoulders (thus forming ripples) they don't match exactly, but it's obvious that care has been taken to match the patterns.