yet another critique my jantzen shirt thread

[silent]

my second Jantzen shirt arrived few days ago and is much closer to what I wanted. your input/opinions desired about fit

first, presently used sizes
Shirt Length: 80cm / 31.5"
Chest: 95cm / 37.5"
Waist: 84cm / 33"
Hip: 95cm / 37.5"
Shoulder: 52cm / 20.5"
Sleeve Length: 90cm / 35.5"
Neck: 40.5cm / 16"
Height: 186cm / 6' 1"
Weight: 78kg
Shirt Fitting: Form (4"-6" Allowance)
Share of Shoulder: Regular Shoulder
Shade of Body: Normal Shade
Collar Style: Collar Style # 5, (Regular Spread)
Collar Stay: Removable Collar Stay
Interlining: Regular
Tie space: 1/4"(Standard)
Back Height: 1 5/8" (Standard)
Cuff Style: Single Cuff Style #1S (Round Single Button)
Contract Collar: Self Collar & Cuff
Cuff Height: 3" (Long)
Front Placket: French Front with edge Stitching
Width of Placket: 1 3/8 (Our Standard)
Shirt Tail: Regular Tail
Shoulder Pleat: No Pleat
Select one: With Split Yoke







I'm thinking
-) take in waist 1-1.5"
-) lengthen sleeves by .5"
-) make the hips wider by 1" (not seen but its tight)
-) box pleat perhaps? side pleats don't work for me I found
I'm torn whether to increase chest by 1" or not -> my wife tells me I look funny, as if the shirt was too small for me but then again, she's a women

and mostly agrees with me after a while, saying that I was right

the shirt was washed and ironed once, I don't expect much shrinkage. The fabric if anyone cares is JKT #0089 White Very Small Herringbone -> like in the other threads it is truly awesome

I already specified higher armholes than jantzen standard, and they are perfect now.

so, what y'all think?

 

[lawyerdad]

Looks very good. I agree about the sleeves. I'm not sure you really need to take the waist in unless you're going for a very fitted look. What about shoulder pleats doesn't work for you -- aesthetics or something else? My understanding is that a center box pleat doesn't do much functionally, although if you prefer it from an aesthetic pov that's something else. Maybe try no pleats and/or split yoke?
Going by the last pic you possibly could take in the shoulders a tad, but if you're happy with them now I'd probably leave well enough alone.

 

[TyskJohan]

I think the collar is set too deep into the yoke, which results in a top seam that is to far forward, on the chest side of your natural shoulder line.

 

[tiecollector]

I'd take the shoulders in 0.5" on each side and lengthen the sleeves an 1.5".
You could take the waist in but it might look a little too young. I think the waist is fine, I wish my shirts fit as well.

Looks good otherwise.

 

[Shirtmaven]

i DON'T quite understand the need to make your shirt so tight that you can not move.
You want to let out the hips and take in the waist. Sitting down will cause the buttons to pull.

you have sloping shoulders with a right low.

the chest is way too tight and the yoke is too wide.

Sleeves also seem short.

Carl

 

[itsstillmatt]

It seems to me like the problem with most of the Jantzens is that there is no shirtmaker to fit you. That seems like an obvious remark, but so many little details are screwed up. It looks to me like the front/chest needs more room and the back needs less. I would think that most shirtmakers would fix stuff like that pretty quickly.

 

[silent]

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

i DON'T quite understand the need to make your shirt so tight that you can not move.
You want to let out the hips and take in the waist. Sitting down will cause the buttons to pull.

Had the shirt on a second time today and I fully agree with you now.
I think I will go with the recommendations in the thread for shirt #3, many thanks to all. Guess the years of tent fitting shirts left me wanting for something too tight

When I saw the pictures myself, I only then noticed that I truly have very sloping shoulders.

Originally Posted by iammatt

It seems to me like the problem with most of the Jantzens is that there is no shirtmaker to fit you. That seems like an obvious remark, but so many little details are screwed up.

agree with you, sadly I have to go with jantzen as I'm not aware of any suitable alternative in austria/germany in the < 150$ price range and OTR shirts fit like a tent. So I don't bother to try them on anymore. The fact that jantzen is so cheap makes is easy to expirement but it's tedious waiting 2-3 months for a shirt that is not what one hoped for, and then start the whole game again. I really ought to take a week holiday in HK and get Chan to make me a couple suits and 2 dozens of shirts.

 

[Carey]

Do you have a tailor you trust who alters your suits and trousers? If so, take the shirt to him and your list of dimensions. Ask him to measure you in this shirt and he will help you arrive at the correct dimensions.

I did this with my local tailor, and I am preparing to place my next order. My first shirt was too tight in the chest, waist, hips. The collar was also too tight and I got the shoulder too small by an inch. Overall I went up about an inch in almost every measurement (except cuff diameter). The length of the body is also very important. My first attempt was two inches too short.

When taking your measurements for a Jantzen, you should make small allowances for the body measurements, and collar. When my tailor measured me, he pulled the tape out about an inch after bringing it around my torso - at each point. Collar works best with two fingers inserted into the circumference of the tape around you neck.

I prefer a sleeve that will rest at just distal to the break of my wrist. Yours is a tad proximal.

Hopefully you will get what you are looking for. It is a shame to spend $150.00 on shirts you can't wear. My wife is sleeping in my first attempt.


Good luck!

 

[Dragon]

I will add to the above that the sleeves look too short.