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YEOSSAL - OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD

Camerashy

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Looking good did you have to pay vat and customs, if so and you don’t mind saying, how much as I’m based in the UK and interested in what they have to offer
 

monkey66

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Looking good did you have to pay vat and customs, if so and you don’t mind saying, how much as I’m based in the UK and interested in what they have to offer
Yes, 20% of declared value. That is the way with all Fedex / UPS etc these days.

Still far cheaper than bespoke trousers in the UK.
 

Camerashy

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Yes, 20% of declared value. That is the way with all Fedex / UPS etc these days.

Still far cheaper than bespoke trousers in the UK.
thanks mate that’s very helpful so no customs duties but presume this is based on the total price of the items
Did you go tts on the trousers
 
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taxgenius

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Any thoughts about the Annonay - grain calf vs the Horween - Russia Hatch grain? Price is the same, color in oxblood and bordeaux is close. Does one crease less than the other?
 

Jmr928

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Any thoughts about the Annonay - grain calf vs the Horween - Russia Hatch grain? Price is the same, color in oxblood and bordeaux is close. Does one crease less than the other?
Definitely a @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes question.

I have the horween, bakers and haas hatchgrains, I don’t have the annonay but I have played around with swatches of it and beyond how they may crease they have a very different feel and characteristics from one another.

The horween has the feel of being a very tempered leather that is quite firm to the touch but an oily almost plasticky feel to it - It definitely feels the most firm to me of the various hatch grains - sort of bulletproof feeling where I just wipe them off and give them a brushing. I haven’t found any need to use a wax polish on them and use minimal creams - easy to burnish. I’ve seen guys knock it but my experience has been fine - I also used it on casual shoes and don’t really care about creasing on them but have had really minimal creasing on one pair and another pair I had it in and sold, the creasing was present but no big deal. The firmness does soften up some with wear.

Bakers feels less dense than the horween but more oily still and has an awesome, unique smell - again really low maintenance and I don’t bother doing anything other than wiping off and brushing. Again a fairly firm leather but less than the horween.

The annonay is next on the softness scale from playing with swatches - more firm than utah but less so than the horween and bakers. Less oily feeling. I tend to really like Annonay’s aniline dyed stuff, particularly their vocalou but haven’t found a project to use their hatch on yet. Less oily feeling, would probably just use creams. More of a traditional grained leather. Slightly less pronounced grain than the horween.

Utah - very supple feeling and soft. My preference for higher boots that are going above my ankle. Pretty easy maintenance with mainly brushing. Haven’t had any problems with excessive creasing. Really awesome leather.

If you are planning to put a shine on it or are super picky about creasing I’d do the annonay. It’s probably a more traditional maintenance routine - If you’re doing a more casual makeup and don’t mind not using wax and want ease of care and a more pronounced/aggressive grain or to burnish I’d stick with horween.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Any thoughts about the Annonay - grain calf vs the Horween - Russia Hatch grain? Price is the same, color in oxblood and bordeaux is close. Does one crease less than the other?
@clee1982 and @Jmr928 probably mentioned me on this query because I have both.
@Jmr928 mentioned some characteristics of the Horween leather.

I would add or ask this, what do you intend to commission with the leathers?

On appearance alone, the Horween looks more expensive. It doesn't feel that way, only looks it. Consequently, if you wanted to commission something on the smart end of things I would select the Horween. The Annonay is softer and can (with time and usage) look more casual, unless you regularly maintain it.

Talking of casual and softness, if you are familiar with Scotch grain at all the Annonay is a softer version of that. The Annonay does tend to crease a little more due to it being softer, but not horribly.

I noticed you said Horween hatch grain and not Horween Arlington hatch grain. That's good because Hatch grain is stiffer and doesn't require as much maintenance as the Arlington.

Honestly, there's no incorrect choice here. I'd just purchase based on the style you are commissioning.
 

taxgenius

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@clee1982 and @Jmr928 probably mentioned me on this query because I have both.
@Jmr928 mentioned some characteristics of the Horween leather.

I would add or ask this, what do you intend to commission with the leathers?

On appearance alone, the Horween looks more expensive. It doesn't feel that way, only looks it. Consequently, if you wanted to commission something on the smart end of things I would select the Horween. The Annonay is softer and can (with time and usage) look more casual, unless you regularly maintain it.

Talking of casual and softness, if you are familiar with Scotch grain at all the Annonay is a softer version of that. The Annonay does tend to crease a little more due to it being softer, but not horribly.

I noticed you said Horween hatch grain and not Horween Arlington hatch grain. That's good because Hatch grain is stiffer and doesn't require as much maintenance as the Arlington.

Honestly, there's no incorrect choice here. I'd just purchase based on the style you are commissioning.
Thanks for the info. I envision using the shoes in a business casual setting; think slacks and sports coat.
 

taxgenius

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Can go either way then. I guess it depends on the actual style and how simple the finished article looks. Any examples of what you are considering?
I am considering a StD in either brown or burgundy.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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I am considering a StD in either brown or burgundy.
That's an easy one then, the Horween. That footwear combo (Horween on a SpTD) will look versatile enough to wear with the SC & slacks you mentioned, as well as those same slacks with knitwear to dress down the ensemble. Not sure how casual you would like to go, but you can wear that footwear combination with moleskins, flannels, twills, drills, etc etc,
 
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Jmr928

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I am considering a StD in either brown or burgundy.
+1 on the horween in that case. Having purchased both of those colors in a split toe from yeossal and given how you mentioned you plan to wear them I’d recommend opting for a less sleek last (avoid JCY, SG65 or DR70) doing the straight heel over pitched and a square waist or dainite over the fiddle or bevel.
 

rdugz

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Definitely a @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes question.

I have the horween, bakers and haas hatchgrains, I don’t have the annonay but I have played around with swatches of it and beyond how they may crease they have a very different feel and characteristics from one another.

The horween has the feel of being a very tempered leather that is quite firm to the touch but an oily almost plasticky feel to it - It definitely feels the most firm to me of the various hatch grains - sort of bulletproof feeling where I just wipe them off and give them a brushing. I haven’t found any need to use a wax polish on them and use minimal creams - easy to burnish. I’ve seen guys knock it but my experience has been fine - I also used it on casual shoes and don’t really care about creasing on them but have had really minimal creasing on one pair and another pair I had it in and sold, the creasing was present but no big deal. The firmness does soften up some with wear.

Bakers feels less dense than the horween but more oily still and has an awesome, unique smell - again really low maintenance and I don’t bother doing anything other than wiping off and brushing. Again a fairly firm leather but less than the horween.

The annonay is next on the softness scale from playing with swatches - more firm than utah but less so than the horween and bakers. Less oily feeling. I tend to really like Annonay’s aniline dyed stuff, particularly their vocalou but haven’t found a project to use their hatch on yet. Less oily feeling, would probably just use creams. More of a traditional grained leather. Slightly less pronounced grain than the horween.

Utah - very supple feeling and soft. My preference for higher boots that are going above my ankle. Pretty easy maintenance with mainly brushing. Haven’t had any problems with excessive creasing. Really awesome leather.

If you are planning to put a shine on it or are super picky about creasing I’d do the annonay. It’s probably a more traditional maintenance routine - If you’re doing a more casual makeup and don’t mind not using wax and want ease of care and a more pronounced/aggressive grain or to burnish I’d stick with horween.
Interesting rundown - for a casual boot (above ankle), how would you rank Utah vs Bakers?
 

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