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YEOSSAL - OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD

Jmr928

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Anyone have any pictures comparing SG65 to YSQ by chance?
 

Jmr928

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I'd been meaning to write this up for a while - I picked up a pair of oxfords from the Y sale they had on old stock/GMTO returns to try and dial in my sizing and when they got here I felt like it was a more fair comparison than my Thompsons and I was curious how they would stack up against the best pair of shoes in my collection. My photography sucks but hopefully you'll get the point. The short version is that if you're looking for a way to break into good handwelted shoes - Y is a great place to look. Comparison in the spoiler and this really shouldn't be a fair fight so don't go read it expecting me to say Y is better than YF.
Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 9.50.20 AM.png

Price point - I got the Y's on sale for something like $500 USD - Normal pricing gets closer to $700 with trees, toe plates, shipping etc. Fukuda is $2,300 plus shipping for about the same.

People talk about specs a lot - Things like stitches per inch on the upper, stitches per inch on the sole, handwelted, hand lasted, etc. These two shoes are an example that the numbers alone tell you some but not a lot on how they're actually executed.

On to stitches per inch on the sole - Yeossal boasts 12 SPI, Yohei is 10. Both are machine stitched.
The Yeossals are mostly very good but there are a couple stitches here and there that aren't the most tidy and miss.
Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 9.58.12 AM.png

The YFs have deeper fudging and the stitching is more deliberate - Not a single stitch is missed and they fall perfectly in the fudging.
Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 9.58.19 AM.png

The uppers and broguing detail
The Yeossals are again pretty good - There are a couple places where the broguing floats a little bit and gets closer to the edge one way or another
Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 10.03.57 AM.png

The YFs - There is less broguing but every single one is placed the exact same distance perfectly.

The heels - Both have a slightly pitched heel - The Y tapers a bit more than I would prefer but it's slightly more subtle on this pair than on my Thompsons which are almost Cuban.
Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 10.07.18 AM.png

You can also see the stitching on the uppers, the skiving and clicking is just a little bit cleaner and more precise on the YFs here at the heel closure.
Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 10.07.28 AM.png


Sole work - Both have a tight waist with Y actually being just slightly slimmer. YF has the smaller heel but both are very good.
Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 10.10.33 AM.png


Leather quality - YF wins here. The leather is just better quality but the Yeossals are not bad by any sense of the word, YF just has the edge and for more than 3x the price it should.

Last definition and shape - Obviously this is a lot of personal preference but the Yeossal holds up surprisingly very well. The shape is refined, there is good definition and nothing looks out of place. The YF last is slightly more refined but they're also different shapes.
Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 10.16.01 AM.png


Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 10.16.11 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 10.16.20 AM.png


As for the goodies that come with your shoes - They both come with two shoe bags with the Yeossal being velvet and the YFs being wool

Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 10.18.34 AM.png


YF comes with a polishing cloth as well and his wooden box which is a nice to have but not a game changer.

The trees are similar with the YFs being a little more finished and a little lighter even though the core isn't drilled out like on the Yeossal trees.
Screen Shot 2021-03-02 at 10.19.50 AM.png

These shoes truly belong in different categories but I did want to compare because the value for what you get from Yeossal is really exceptional and I'll admit to being shocked how well they held up against the YFs. The biggest differences come when you put them side by side and start to pull out a tape measure or hold them a foot from your face. If you're on the fence about whether or not a handwelted shoe from China is worth $700 I'm confident in saying that you have nothing to worry about.
 
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losrockets

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I'm interested in trying a pair of the pants but have a few questions. Are the double forward pleats fashion (shallow) or actually functional? I prefer the latter. My current MTM trouser spec w/ another maker is Waist 32", Hip 41.9", Thigh 27", Knee 19", Front Rise 11.5". Leg opening varies from 16 - 16.75" depending on the style. Which size should I order? Will I need to request a few adjustments to the overall specs to get an approximately similar fit?
 

Rimaarts

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measure inside your waistband with ruler. that will be your size. measure front and rear rise. are you "normal"? "forward leaning posture"? "backwards leaning? any other stuff you can't wear on ready to wear? aside from that go by measurement table and compare to what you own... I'd say pleats are pretty functional!




I'm interested in trying a pair of the pants but have a few questions. Are the double forward pleats fashion (shallow) or actually functional? I prefer the latter. My current MTM trouser spec w/ another maker is Waist 32", Hip 41.9", Thigh 27", Knee 19", Front Rise 11.5". Leg opening varies from 16 - 16.75" depending on the style. Which size should I order? Will I need to request a few adjustments to the overall specs to get an approximately similar fit?
 

losrockets

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@Rimaarts Those are the actual measurements. I have the front (11.5") and U rise (30.5") I did not need a posture adjustment for my hips w/ my MTM trousers. RTW jackets don't fit me great and I have a large drop, trousers are limited for me by relatively large thigh to waist ratio and preference for higher rise. I'm having a hard time comparing to the size chart on yeossal's website because the listed rise for ex a size 32 is "28."
 

Rimaarts

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@Rimaarts Those are the actual measurements. I have the front (11.5") and U rise (30.5") I did not need a posture adjustment for my hips w/ my MTM trousers. RTW jackets don't fit me great and I have a large drop, trousers are limited for me by relatively large thigh to waist ratio and preference for higher rise. I'm having a hard time comparing to the size chart on yeossal's website because the listed rise for ex a size 32 is "28."

why don't you take a pictures of your trousers with measuring tape, and ping them on Instagram? they have amazing customer service.

my bugbear with rtw is forward leaning hips and for pleated trousers mega high rise...and thanks to gym I have quite big quads and rear with reasonably small waist. I think on my 4th trousers I'll end up with 39 size waist, 40 size trousers with 34-35 size rise height.

however since you can't see them in person, my suggestion is don't go full out in changing pattern. do one thing at a time. you might succeed but might not.

yeossal is my first successful mtm outcome. (that's why it took a couple of trousers to get what I like)

for example I measured my first trousers wrong. got 2 sizes too small, so they are on eBay currently.

second trousers we nailed rise but they are a bit tight. (modern fit but I want something a bit more classical)

third trousers they adjusted for forward leaning posture. but trousers turned out unusually full for me (I'm slowly getting used to it.)

trousers 4 is currently in progress right in the middle between previous 2 trousers...
 

Noblekostas

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Friends I will appreciate your help!

I am planning to make an MTO of the double monk with the plain toe on the SG65 last with bi-material uppers. Still deciding on that.

Can someone help me with sizing? My reference:
  • Carmina Rain/Forest: UK 8
  • Saint Crispin's Classic: UK 8
  • TLB Mallorca Artista: UK 8
  • Carlos Santos 401/445/234/316: UK 7.5
  • Carlos Santos 387/389: UK 8
  • Antonio Meccariello Chisel 2: UK 8.5
  • Gaziano & Girling Deco/TG73: UK 8.5
  • Edward Green 82: UK 8.5
  • Meermin Hiro: UK 8
  • CNES: UK 8.5
  • Passus 2000: UK 8.5
  • Crockett & Jones 373/348/341/337: UK 8
  • Paolo Scafora DOOR/VOLA/R: UK 7.5
  • Paolo Scafora Q: UK 8
Thanks!
 

monkey66

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I went tts UK10 on my SG65 GMTO adelades in the summer. And they are a good fit apart from the instep could stand to be 10mm shorter for me. They are comfy but there is no gap in the lace stance so I hope they don't stretch. I have a fairly average European instep.
 

Noblekostas

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I went tts UK10 on my SG65 GMTO adelades in the summer. And they are a good fit apart from the instep could stand to be 10mm shorter for me. They are comfy but there is no gap in the lace stance so I hope they don't stretch. I have a fairly average European instep.
Thanks, my instep especially on the right foot is 0.5 cm higher. I will take UK 8 honestly. I often fit Carlos Santos 401 which is half a size larger for most in UK 8 and it's a good benchmark for me.

I'll post pics when they arrive!
 

Rimaarts

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Friends I will appreciate your help!

I am planning to make an MTO of the double monk with the plain toe on the SG65 last with bi-material uppers. Still deciding on that.

Can someone help me with sizing? My reference:
  • Carmina Rain/Forest: UK 8
  • Saint Crispin's Classic: UK 8
  • TLB Mallorca Artista: UK 8
  • Carlos Santos 401/445/234/316: UK 7.5
  • Carlos Santos 387/389: UK 8
  • Antonio Meccariello Chisel 2: UK 8.5
  • Gaziano & Girling Deco/TG73: UK 8.5
  • Edward Green 82: UK 8.5
  • Meermin Hiro: UK 8
  • CNES: UK 8.5
  • Passus 2000: UK 8.5
  • Crockett & Jones 373/348/341/337: UK 8
  • Paolo Scafora DOOR/VOLA/R: UK 7.5
  • Paolo Scafora Q: UK 8
Thanks!
I think instep might be a bit too high for you.
I have very wide feet.
I have a pair of yc3 10.5 and a pair of sg65 incoming in 10.5 wide fit. And instep is almost too high (laces closing on my right foot completely)! I think 11 with dropped instep would be right for me, but I love heel on 10.5

my reference from your examples, meermin hiro I’m 11, artista I would buy 11, carmina I would buy 11. And mecariello I ordered 11 but had to send back and exchange for 11.5
 

Noblekostas

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I think instep might be a bit too high for you.
I have very wide feet.
I have a pair of yc3 10.5 and a pair of sg65 incoming in 10.5 wide fit. And instep is almost too high (laces closing on my right foot completely)! I’d go for 11 but I love heel on 10.5

my reference from your examples, meermin hiro I’m 11, artista I would buy 11, carmina I would buy 11. And mecariello I ordered 11 but had to send back and exchange for 11.5
I have a high instep. Thanks for the advice though. I ll take the UK 8!
 

Viatu

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Hello all. I am a very happy repeat Yeossal customer. But, I feel like Yeossal's hand welted line of shoes are missing their take on a shoe similar to Saint Crispin's French Norwegian 2 eyelet derby. This specific derby is my favorite derby and it may be yours too. So, I broached the idea to Yeossal about creating their take on this derby. Yeossal is only willing to create their own French Norwegian 2 eyelet derby if there is enough interest. That's where you all come in. If you are interested in purchasing this derby from Yeossal please comment below and/or send me a private message. I've posted some pictures of the Saint Crispin's French Norwegian 2 eyelet derby.
 

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