Xibao Shoemaker - Oct. Tenth

[Notch]

I went for the Hang last because of the higher volume. I have slightly wide feet. I guess that Tom recommenced 10.5 for me because of the high volume of the last being more friendly towards people with wider feet.

For reference these are my shoe sizes:


Trickers Stow Boot (4497s Last): UK - 10
Alden Indy Boot (TruBalance Last): US - 10.5
Carmina (Rain Last): UK - 10
Joe Works Shoemaker (0-Last): UK - 10.5
The Sabot’s Amblier (AM18 Last): UK - 10.5
Sagara Boots (Mark Last): EU - 45
Grant Stone Diesel Boot (Leo Last): US - 10.5E

Correct, we went with Hang size 10.5 to accommodate a wider foot, and since you mentioned in our emails that you'd prefer more volume

It's great that Tom introduced 2 widths for his MTOs, helps with different feet. This means extra dedication for him to recommend the right size.

Just to be clear, there's are no 2 widths, rather there are two different sets of lasts. The Huang and Pu, that have a more regular 'F' fitting, and the Shang and Hai, that have a more narrow 'E ' fitting.

Edward Green and G&G take E as their 'standard' fit during last development, which is actually the 'narrow' fit for most brands. Hence the reason why almost everyone sizes up half a size for these brands.

Different makers name the width differently. Like for G&G and EG the “E” width is regular width and “F” width is wide width. Like for Enzo Bonafe the regular width I believe is “F”.
I am still not sure how does Oct Tenth names it.
I see that Shang last has “E” as a standard width and whereas Haung last has “F” standard width. @Notch - Can you clarify that if E width for Oct tenth is the regular width and F width is wide.

In UK sizing, the standard denomination is:

E = narrow
F = standard
G = wide
H = extra wide

What fitting brands choose to be their standard fitting, is up to them of course.

Another thing I want to point out is that Horween Hatch grain is really different to Utah leather, it's a lot more smoother in real life, each to their own.

Definitely, two very different leathers! Chrome tanned (Horween hatch grain) vs vegetable tanned (Utah) accounts for most of the differences.

 

[wurger]

Correct, we went with Hang size 10.5 to accommodate a wider foot, and since you mentioned in our emails that you'd prefer more volume



Just to be clear, there's are no 2 widths, rather there are two different sets of lasts. The Huang and Pu, that have a more regular 'F' fitting, and the Shang and Hai, that have a more narrow 'E ' fitting.

Edward Green and G&G take E as their 'standard' fit during last development, which is actually the 'narrow' fit for most brands. Hence the reason why almost everyone sizes up half a size for these brands.



In UK sizing, the standard denomination is:

E = narrow
F = standard
G = wide
H = extra wide

What fitting brands choose to be their standard fitting, is up to them of course.



Definitely, two very different leathers! Chrome tanned (Horween hatch grain) vs vegetable tanned (Utah) accounts for most of the differences.

Thank you for the detailed explanation!

 

[clee1982]

Shang

Correct, we went with Hang size 10.5 to accommodate a wider foot, and since you mentioned in our emails that you'd prefer more volume



Just to be clear, there's are no 2 widths, rather there are two different sets of lasts. The Huang and Pu, that have a more regular 'F' fitting, and the Shang and Hai, that have a more narrow 'E ' fitting.

Edward Green and G&G take E as their 'standard' fit during last development, which is actually the 'narrow' fit for most brands. Hence the reason why almost everyone sizes up half a size for these brands.



In UK sizing, the standard denomination is:

E = narrow
F = standard
G = wide
H = extra wide

What fitting brands choose to be their standard fitting, is up to them of course.



Definitely, two very different leathers! Chrome tanned (Horween hatch grain) vs vegetable tanned (Utah) accounts for most of the differences.

great to know think I might try Shang in 9 next time if I got extra space in Huang in 8.5 when grey lazyman comes back. MH71 was quite restrictive though literately just need a bit more in toebox room

 

[aj2603]

Correct, we went with Hang size 10.5 to accommodate a wider foot, and since you mentioned in our emails that you'd prefer more volume

Yes Tom, I like my toes & finger to follow some social distancing ?

 

[Notch]

I would like to avoid further confusion for the OT lasts, as I have been receiving a couple of emails about this.

There are no different width fittings for each last. The two 'sets' of lasts simply fit differently:

• The Huang and Pu fit more towards an F fitting. F fitting is what you could call average, standard or medium width. It is what most brands offer as their standard width.
• The Shang and Hai on the other hand for more towards an E fitting. The E fitting is slightly more narrow, which results in less volume in the front. Only G&G and EG use E fitting as their 'standard' fitting.

So it is not possible to order Huang in E fitting or Shang in F fitting.

Besides the difference in fitting between the two sets of lasts, the Huang and Pu are banana-shaped, and the Shang and Hai are more straight.

 

[wurger]

I would like to avoid further confusion for the OT lasts, as I have been receiving a couple of emails about this.

There are no different width fittings for each last. The two 'sets' of lasts simply fit differently:

• The Huang and Pu fit more towards an F fitting. F fitting is what you could call average, standard or medium width. It is what most brands offer as their standard width.
• The Shang and Hai on the other hand for more towards an E fitting. The E fitting is slightly more narrow, which results in less volume in the front. Only G&G and EG use E fitting as their 'standard' fitting.

So it is not possible to order Huang in E fitting or Shang in F fitting.

Besides the difference in fitting between the two sets of lasts, the Huang and Pu are banana-shaped, and the Shang and Hai are more straight.

Sorry, I chose my words loosely on one of the posts before: 2 Sets of lasts, each with 1 width only. I would recommend the boys stick to the last that is more suitable for their own feet, as in normal to wide feet start with the Huang and Pu lasts, and narrower feet start with Shang and Hai lasts; while you can size up or down .5 for a certain aesthetic, it's never ideal as the last isn't designed for your feet.

Once you get your first pair, then have a chat to Tom about the actual fit, and see if you can try out the other set of lasts if you want to experiement with the second pair.

 

[benjamin831]

Can anyone comment on instep height on these? Many English shoe brands have pretty reasonable instep heights, but I've been burned too many times by Italian and Vass lasts being too high on the instep.

 

[saurabh]

Can anyone comment on instep height on these? Many English shoe brands have pretty reasonable instep heights, but I've been burned too many times by Italian and Vass lasts being too high on the instep.

I have the same experience with Italian makers especially Enzo Bonafe , Meccariello etc the instep been too high. Also, wishing the instep is like british makers on Oct Tenth.

 

[clee1982]

well, I'm hoping the instep is not like the English ones, so either I'm happy or you're happy... (but guess Oct Tenth do have these 4 last so maybe we can both be happy...)

 

[saurabh]

well, I'm hoping the instep is not like the English ones, so either I'm happy or you're happy... (but guess Oct Tenth do have these 4 last so maybe we can both be happy...)

We have our preorders on different lasts

 

[Thilgela]

eyeing on a pair soon. Not super into the horween hatch leather. Maybe we can continue the JFJ Baker GMTO here? @Notch

 

[Free Style]

By looking at Xibao's Taobao store, they have three tiers of products. The two more expensive ones, 2000 RMB vs 3500 RMB, Do any of you know what are the main differences? They both seem goodyear welted but other than that not sure if there are material difference either in the leather quality or in the construction process.

 

[beargonefishing]

By looking at Xibao's Taobao store, they have three tiers of products. The two more expensive ones, 2000 RMB vs 3500 RMB, Do any of you know what are the main differences? They both seem goodyear welted but other than that not sure if there are material difference either in the leather quality or in the construction process.

I don't know for sure, but the most expensive one could be handwelted instead of Goodyear welted. Everything else being equal, handwelted would be more expensive.

 

[Free Style]

I don't know for sure, but the most expensive one could be handwelted instead of Goodyear welted. Everything else being equal, handwelted would be more expensive.

That would make sense, given that the <2000 rmb shoes they have are rapid black instead of goodyear welted

 

[clee1982]

you can talk to xibao on wechat, she is very quick to respond on wechat