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WWD Article: Reinventing Savile Row

lasbar

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Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley
http://www.wwd.com/menswear-news/rei...le-row-3337193

The same old battles between the old guard and the more commercially ambitious...

I'm very new to the Row and I did find the tailoring houses quite approchable even in my eyes if Anderson is stuffier than Huntsman or Norton.

Even Anderson under the Rowland daughter did open its doors to new customers even if some of the old guard is still relunctant to this new policy.

Patrick Grant is posher version of what Boateng or Kilgour did a few years ago with a different concept...

Launching a very distinctive RTW collection with a strong identity...

With Boateng ,it was about style and colours ,Kilgour about lean and simple cut and Tautz is about British chic and strong identity...

I'm more of a fan of the old guard ,the bespoke dinosaurs.

I don't find Huntsman or Tautz slightly interesting but it is just my point of view.
 

Eustace Tilley

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Originally Posted by DocHolliday
I am loving the recent SF focus on British style.

Good job, SF.


Won't last long. I bet another Rubi-based controversy will crop up soon enough.
 

DocHolliday

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We lack a critical mass of bespoke posters who favor the traditional English style. RSS is going to have to step up his game. I can post only so many Steed pics.

I have always suspected/hoped it was a matter of time before someone came along who favored, say, Anderson or Dege or Huntsman, or even a talented off-Row tailor. With the right clothes and good pics, I could see the forum's tastes widening significantly.
 

GlenCoe

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there's a Rag and Bone store on SR?
 

mack11211

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Good article.

The news of it is the emphasis on brand management, not just business administration.

Hope it all works. Savile Row knows it has some very well-organized competitors for the luxury men's clothing dollar/euro/pound/yuan/diinar/etc. May they rise to the challenge, both individually and as an association.
 

George

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Originally Posted by DocHolliday
We lack a critical mass of bespoke posters who favor the traditional English style. RSS is going to have to step up his game. I can post only so many Steed pics. I have always suspected/hoped it was a matter of time before someone came along who favored, say, Anderson or Dege or Huntsman, or even a talented off-Row tailor. With the right clothes and good pics, I could see the forum's tastes widening significantly.
I doubt that. The faux Italian style reigns supreme on here. I use what I consider to be a very talented semi-retired English tailor but I'm not posting any pictures and I doubt RSS will either.
 

lasbar

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Originally Posted by George
I doubt that.

The faux Italian style reigns supreme on here. I use what I consider to be a very talented semi-retired English tailor but I'm not posting any pictures and I doubt RSS will either.


If you post anything ,people will criticize any details of the garment in question...

Some people can post the most pathetic and people will congratulate them...

I did post a few pics of my Rubinacci and Norton suits on their hangers...

I don't even bother anymore posting anything...

We have nothing to prove.
 

TheWraith

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I prefer the English style of tailoring myself. Nothing wrong with the Italian, though, but traditional English will always reign supreme with me.
Originally Posted by lasbar
If you post anything ,people will criticize any details of the garment in question... Some people can post the most pathetic and people will congratulate them... I did post a few pics of my Rubinacci and Norton suits on their hangers... I don't even bother anymore posting anything... We have nothing to prove.
+1
 

DocHolliday

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Originally Posted by George
I doubt that.

The faux Italian style reigns supreme on here. I use what I consider to be a very talented semi-retired English tailor but I'm not posting any pictures and I doubt RSS will either.


RSS posted some nice ones long ago, on a forum far away.

Vox, of course, has posted some work by English tailors, though his stuff runs to the conservative, rather than conspicuously English.

Part of the trouble has been that the RTW industry holds such influence. But it seems the English style has been enjoying a resurgence lately, so hopefully that will continue to seep into the collective subconcious.

Rubinacci did not always have such a grip on the forums. It took someone to start posting nice Rubinacci things.

With so few excellent tailors left, I can see why it took off.
 

George

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Originally Posted by lasbar
If you post anything ,people will criticize any details of the garment in question... Some people can post the most pathetic and people will congratulate them... I did post a few pics of my Rubinacci and Norton suits on their hangers... I don't even bother anymore posting anything... We have nothing to prove.
A while back a chap posted a sportscoat made by the off Row tailor Graham Browne. Needless to say, it garnered very little interest from the posters on here. 2 pages IIRC. However, we have threads started about somebody who's pants have fuckin shrunk, and the ensuing competition to guess what material he's chosen then another thread devoted to internet celebrity worship. These run into pages. Pffff.....
 

RJE

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Originally Posted by DocHolliday
We lack a critical mass of bespoke posters who favor the traditional English style.

It's not a matter of quantity, but quality: those who favour the English style aren't such disputatious attention whores.
 

rnoldh

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