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WW Chan's Neopolitan shoulder construction - pictures

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NorCal_1, Jan 20, 2010.

  1. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    Actually, the pics do not do it justice, the fabric and shoulders, they are much more impressive IRL.
    Thanks M. I think you're the only SFer to have seen both irl!
    Looks great! Thanks for sharing!
    No prob, D. I love Chan's soft shoulder. Will probably get another one soon. Wish I was going to HK soon like you are! Btw, if you get a fresco coat, I recommend a medium to darkish lining. As you can make out a bit in the pics on the other thread, the white striped lining on the sleeves shines through at times. The silvery-blue lining in the body does fine though. Also, I was wrong about the Breanish. It's ST6. And sorry the pics are so bad. I was testing the limits of my girlfriend's patience by asking her to take these. I might try to take better ones. I think the camera focused on the rug not my shoulder.
     
  2. Kentishman

    Kentishman Senior member

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    Ah, an example of spalla comica in the wild.

    I got it; subtle and good! [​IMG]
     
  3. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    I'm not sure if you know this already, but this issue ("short backneck") is of minor controversy in SF. Manton and Jeffrey discuss it here:

    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...50#post2842850

    And all forum controversy leads back to A&S:

    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...45#post1101345

    Their claimed feature is allowing more fullness over the shoulder blades, and keeping the collar on the neck. Jeffreyd and Despos demur. My Italian tailor regards it as an English feature FWIW.

    --Andre


    My Chan shoulders are cut as GLD's - i.e. not as clean of a neckline as Parker's - but the collar stays closer/better to the neck on them than on one of my other suits (from a different tailor) that has an angled shoulder. Just my two cents.
     
  4. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    No prob, D. I love Chan's soft shoulder. Will probably get another one soon. Wish I was going to HK soon like you are! Btw, if you get a fresco coat, I recommend a medium to darkish lining. As you can make out a bit in the pics on the other thread, the white striped lining on the sleeves shines through at times. The silvery-blue lining in the body does fine though.

    Also, I was wrong about the Breanish. It's ST6.

    And sorry the pics are so bad. I was testing the limits of my girlfriend's patience by asking her to take these. I might try to take better ones. I think the camera focused on the rug not my shoulder.


    Thanks! I have a DB Fresco jacket and notice that issue on occassion, but it doesn't really bother me. I'll probaly get a darker color ermazine lining if I get a Fresco odd jacket next year.

    Definitely worth it to do a full fitting at Chan if you're back in HK. Always works out very well.

    My Chan shoulders are cut as GLD's - i.e. not as clean of a neckline as Parker's - but the collar stays closer/better to the neck on them than on one of my other suits (from a different tailor) that has an angled shoulder. Just my two cents.

    My Chan shoulders are straight as well and hang very nice and snug on my neck. I plan on speaking with Patrick about the pros and cons of an angled shoulder for my pattern next time I see him more out of curiosity than anything. I'm not too concerned either way.
     
  5. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    My Chan shoulders are straight as well and hang very nice and snug on my neck. I plan on speaking with Patrick about the pros and cons of an angled shoulder for my pattern next time I see him more out of curiosity than anything. I'm not too concerned either way.

    Thanks David - any chance you can let us know here what Patrick tells you?
     
  6. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Thanks David - any chance you can let us know here what Patrick tells you?

    Sure thing. Probably won't be for a while though.
     
  7. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Did I mention that I asked him a few weeks ago in NYC and he said "sorry no can do" ?
     
  8. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Did I mention that I asked him a few weeks ago in NYC and he said "sorry no can do" ?

    I wonder though if it has more to do with one's pattern where it makes sense for some, but not for others.
     
  9. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Sure thing. Probably won't be for a while though.

    Many thanks David - I plan to do the same when I see him in March and will report here.

    Did I mention that I asked him a few weeks ago in NYC and he said "sorry no can do" ?

    Thanks GLD - you sure did and I am wondering why he said that, as he was able to do it for Parker. I am not so concerned about the close collar, but agree with you that the angled shoulder seems to allow for a cleaner neckline (on a soft shoulder).
     

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