Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by matadorpoeta, Nov 23, 2004.
has anyone tried their online shirt service? can anyone comment on the quality and fit?
Fit is good. Fabric quality is very good. For fit, I'd say the house fit is somewhere between Jantzen's form fit and loose fit. The armholes are incredibly high, which is the best part of the shirt, but I was measured in person. You might want to pass along your scye measurement or whatever you'd call it.
A couple of minor things that might not be relevant to doing a self-measurement: The arms on my shirt were not as long as I like them. I prefer just a slight bit of bunching at the cuff, but these hang pretty straight, with the cuff reaching about 3/4" above my thumb's first knuckle. Also, they cut the cuffs a bit looser than I desire as well. You might want to specify the cuff width if you are a stickler for that (I like my cuffs a bit snugger, which then necessitates a shorter jacket sleeve. I think this looks better, is more comfortable, and is more functional).
Best part for me is the button stance/placket firmness. I got a plain front, but for some reason the top of the placket has enough firmness (and you can't feel this, by the way) so that the collar can be left unbuttoned all day and it don't droop. And the second button is in the perfect position for wear without a tie -- not too high, but also high enough so that the collar doesn't droop excessively.
Overall, I honestly prefer Jantzen over Chan except for the positioning of the second button and armhole height. I feel that Jantzen's fabric choices are bigger, and that Jantzen's best fabrics are every bit as good as Thomas Mason. I like Jantzen's interlinings better, and especially like Jantzen's french cuffs. I like that I have more options with a Jantzen shirt.
But Chan shirts are very, very good. It isn't much of a risk to order one shirt and then change subsequent orders. Their customer service is impeccable and prices outstanding. I think it is certainly the case that I can get a better suit than Chan off the rack that fits me just as well for about the same price (i.e. an Oxxford from Filene's Basement for $800) -- I'm a good off the rack fit and went Chan "bespoke" twice simply because I wanted to add a few details that I was never going to find off the rack at a discounter. But there is no way that I'll ever find an OTR shirt that fits me as well as my Chans or Jantzens. Chans customer service -- and Jantzens slow turnaround times these days -- make Chan a good bet.
thanks johnny, i had a feeling you'd ring in on this one. Â
i like jantzen shirts a lot but i don't like that he doesn't even acknowledge receipt of the order. i don't mind waiting, but who knows if he even recieved it or when the order will be ready. at least if i knew in advance that orders took 2 months, i could plan accordingly.
i'm going to give chan a try or i might go back to mr young's. his prices are about 20% higher than chan for comparable material.
Umm, well when you have nothing to do at work -- which I don't right now -- but still have to be at work, giving extensive comments on Chan shirting is about all there is left.
I'm lucky that I put in a big Jantzen order last June. While I wait for the big order I put in late September, I still have shirts to wear. But not enough. There are never enough.
Not to hijack a thread, but does anyone has a similar experience to me -- having one or two really favorite suits that you could wear over and over, but wanting a never ending supply of shirts, ties, and shoes? This is me.
I too am addicted to shirts. I have yet to sample Jantzen, and I shudder to think what will happen when I do. Luckily I have lately been able to keep myself off buying any shirts. Well, any that are over about $10. Err... unless they fit exactly right. Okay, I am still addicted, but at least my shirt spending has gone down.
WW Chan shirts are good, but I much prefer Ascot Chang. Ascot Chang has much better fabric choices (e.g., Thomas Mason Silverline vs "regular" Thomas Mason), and uses a much nicer feeling interlining in the collars and cuffs. You pay a lot for those differences (well, and also for the increased overhead Ascot Chang undoubtedly has).
Workmanship is fairly close between the two. I think the Ascot Chang shirts have a higher stitch per inch count but the seams look just about the same unless you are looking at them very closely. In comparing shirts, once you are looking at items made with at least a "competent" level of workmanship, I think that it's the fabrics that drive the perceived quality for most people. That's where Ascot Chang really stands above WW Chan--if you're willing to pay for their better shirtings. I also feel that Ascot Chang is much more flexible at making adjustments to their measurements.
I have used Chan since 1989, and am a big fan. I do find the shirts consistently snug no amount of adjustment seems to help. That being said, they try very hard to please and they are highly professional.
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