Ww chan

[johnnynorman3]

I had my WW Chan fitting in Boston the other day. I'm not sure what the process if like in Hong Kong, but it is definitely not "bespoke" or anything near that for the U.S. tour fitting. It was truly made to measure, and they took a lot less measurements than I was expecting. This may have been because I have a pretty "off-the-rack" body, but I'm not sure. And the measurements were taken pretty darn quick too. Indeed, the most time was picking out the fabrics. The $733 US fabrics struck me as very good -- a bunch of 130s in a variety of colors and patterns. I ordered a navy blue, and put a charcoal and a charcoal chalk stripe in the queue for later orders.

So, here are the measurements I believe that he took. (1) Outseam; (2) Inseam [strangely he didn't really ask where I like my pants to sit on my waist -- I think he assumed I liked it to sit where I had them sitting during the fitting; this surprised me, as I figured he'd ask what length of rise I wanted; he also didn't ask if I wanted to same type of break that the pants I was wearing had]; (3) Shoulder; I believe he took measurements for each shoulder; (4) 1" above belly button; (5) 1" below belly button; (6) Hips; (7) collar to wear the curve of my butt ends; (8) collar to front thigh [I believe he took this to see if the coat had to be longer in back than in front or vice versa; (9) Sleeve length [again, he didn't ask how much cuff I wanted exposed, but my sense is that he was shooting for .25 to .5"]; (10) Chest; (11) Chest + arms.

Those are the only measurements I can recall off hand that were taken. I did order one shirt for $78 (it was a pale blue herringbone, and I couldn't resist my curiousity, and the color was great too). For that he took my neck measurement, and then my wrist measurement when I requested. (I emailed Chan to ensure that they took my wrist circumfrence into consideration when fashioning the suit sleeves as well; they emailed back shortly saying they certainly would). He said the shirt would be more fitted than the one I was wearing (I was wearing one of the few clean dress shirts I had, which was far too baggy for my tastes), but it was nothing like the Jantzen fit options. I selected the collar type and barrell cuff, but again no selecting point lengths, etc. like for Jantzen. I sort of just put my trust in them, which may have been stupid.

For the jacket, I selected the fabric, the type of pockets on the pants, the type of pleat I wanted (I selected single peak), the vent type, the button type obviously (I chose two button with a higher stance), cuffs on the pants, and belt loops. Everything else the fitter either took from the jacket I took in (which I said was very much what I was looking to recreate), or Chan just has a default. The did take photos, but it was without me wearing the jacket. I'm not sure if they took a picture of the jacket I brought. I asked the guy about shoulder padding -- how I wanted soft padding, if any. He said that my shoulders were very nice, and that I only needed a single layer of fabric in the shoulder, which was a relief to me.

In sum, this purchase was a bit of a leap of faith, and I wish I would have been a little more prepared, assertive. But the whole process only took about 40 minutes, and you tend to forget things like whether you want flapped pockets on the jacket or not, how many inches you want the vents to be, etc.

I'll try to post pics and will definitely post reviews when I receive the suit and the shirt.

 

[Alias]

If you want to prevent forgetfulness, write down everything you want in your suit, and take that note with you

Feel free to address anything you haven't during your first fitting.

 

[dah328]

In my experiences, Chan definitely has tasteful defaults that they employ in the absence of a request to the contrary.  For the more outlandish requests, they'll try to convince you otherwise but will accomodate some of them with enough persistence.  They've talked me out of some things that, in retrospect, were pretty dumb ideas on my part.

Your fitting certainly sounds like MTM.  I suppose that in order to get the true bespoke experience, you'd have to visit either their Hong Kong or Shanghai locations.  I suspect, though, that you will find the $733 a pretty reasonable price even for MTM considering the amount of handwork in the jacket and the nice 130's fabrics.  

I've been pleased enough with my Chan experience that until I find a better value (which I suspect will be difficult), they will be making all my trousers and suits.

Let us know what you think when you receive the suit in 6-8 weeks.

dan

 

[retronotmetro]

Your fitting certainly sounds like MTM.  I suppose that in order to get the true bespoke experience, you'd have to visit either their Hong Kong or Shanghai locations.

I think of it as "bespoke with a catch." The catch being that your completed suit serves as the basis for pattern modifications, and you have to wait for the next visit to put the changes in. I've requested several small pattern modifications after the first order, and all have been accomodated. A friend of mine got a suit made with two post-measurement fittings at the WW Chan HK shop, and I don't think his fits him any better than my "order #2 and later" suits fit me.

Compare the WW Chan prices to what Kilgour French Stanbury charges for its made-in-Shanghai suits: at today's exchange rate, about $1750 for a one-fitting suit, $2300 for a two-fitting suit. Yes, Kilgours has the suits cut in England before being constructed in Shanghai, but I'd imagine there is a heavy name recognition premium built into this pricing structure, and I'd rather not bear their built-in shipping costs of my suit circumnavigating the globe a couple of times. WW Chan may not be the pinnacle of tailoring excellence, but it is a great value, and better than RTW in the same price range.

 

[Brian SD]

better than RTW in the same price range.

This is what I see as being important. The same motif keeps me buying Jantzen shirts.

 

[HitMan009]

Gentlemen,

I had my first fitting with WWChan when they were in New York last friday.  As johnnynorman3 mentioned, it is definitely made-to-measure.  However I would like to say that Mr. Kiang is patient and quite a gentleman.  We must have conversed about the suit for about an hour.  I don't remember exactly what he measured but it was quite quick.  A few measurements and 3-4 photos.  I mentioned exactly what I was looking for.  A distinct British cut(side vents, waist suppression, etc).  I pointed out that I wanted a high gorge 3 button rolled to the 2nd button.  The notch lapel on the slim side of averge.  Natural shoulders with minimal padding.  Flap pockets that can be tucked in for a jetted(besom) pocket.  Single pleated pants with on seam pockets and a coin pocket on the right side seam.    I picked out the fabric from the special he had.  It is from the Vitale Barberis Canonico Revenge 130s' cloth book.  As being my first "bespoke" suit, I wanted a more classic cloth.  I picked out a charcoal grey with fine herringbone weave.  For $733 including everything I think is quite a good deal.  They also had shirts on sale so I got a dark blue stripe on pale blue shirt to complete my conserative look.  The shirt itself was $78.  Looking at it, I can use the measurement from this shirt to get shirts from Jantzen.    

All in all, a pleasant experience.  Although the wait is a bore.  Not till September will the suit arrive.  For everyone, my understanding is they ship the suit is a tiny FEDEX box.  Has anyone asked them to ship it with a bigger container, maybe with a hanger, etc?

 

[retronotmetro]

What is the difference between bespoke and made to measure? My understanding of the term "made to measure" is that it refers to suits made by modification to stock patterns based upon individual measurements. My understanding of WW Chan's work is that they are making an individual paper pattern for the customer, based on their measurements but subject to revision and modification in any respect the customer requires. They claim to do this whether your first order is placed in HK with multiple fittings, or in the US with a single measuring session.

You can certainly argue over whether their pattern-making skills are up to an old-school Savile Row standard, but they are definitely giving you a much higher level of customization than you'd get by walking into Barneys or Saks and ordering an MTM suit.

Their shipping method is, for lack of a better term, lousy. Suits always arrive in need of steaming at the least, and more likely a full pressing. However, I'm not certain their customs agent can handle anything else.

 

[johnnynorman3]

I'd call the Chan US tour made to measure mainly because there aren't any fittings. I agree that you have lots of style options, at least if you are more assertive than I was. (To be fair, I made sure to contact Chan via email after my fitting to specify a few things, like to make sure my jacket sleeves took into account my wrist measurement; Chan responded positively and promptly to all post-fitting requests).

I'm a bit worried about how the suit will arrive. My fear is that the wrinkles will NEVER come out. I don't mind giving it a pressing, but is there a chance it a wrinkled suit becomes irreversably flawed?

 

[A Harris]

Buy yourself a good steamer. Skip the handheld models and get a Jiffy floor model off ebay for $100 or so. They are worth their weight in gold. A freind sent me a Pal Zileri www.sartoriale.it suit to sell, except he had quite literally stuffed it into a shoebox.. It was the most wrinkled suit I had ever seen. 3 minutes with the steamer and it was ready to wear, and that is not an exaggeration. On caveat - test the steamer on a spot that can easily ironed back to shape first. On a VERY few fabrics, the steam will distort the fabric almost instantly (make it go baggy, for lack of a better term) and it's nearly impossible to press it back...

 

[dah328]

I'm a bit worried about how the suit will arrive.  My fear is that the wrinkles will NEVER come out.  I don't mind giving it a pressing, but is there a chance it a wrinkled suit becomes irreversably flawed?

There's no chance they'll still be wrinkled after a pressing.  Chan folds them compactly, but carefully so that won't happen.

dan

 

[regularjoe]

I'll have to say that decent/good wool is amazing stuff.

I've procured a lot of slacks/sport coats/suits on-line either Ebay or other normal retailer and no matter how wrinkled it starts, a couple days on a proper hanger seem to cure all ills.

I'd have to imagine a stand up steamer would do the trick.

 

[HitMan009]

Everyone,

My suit is set to arrive in September but it seems WWChan has already charged my credit card. Is this the same experience with everyone else that has ordered from them?

-HitMan009

 

[johnnynorman3]

They do charge your credit card within a few days of ordering. Unlike Jantzen, they do not wait to charge you. Being that they answer emails very promptly, this is okay to me.

 

[Kai]

I think they charge your card when they start cutting your suit, at least that's how it worked with me.

 

[DSM]

What is the quality of the ww.chan fabrics--and what brands do they have? For example, If I wanted a Holland & Sherry trouser, would they carry H&S and what would be the price?