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WW Chan with your own material

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by denning, Sep 25, 2006.

  1. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    I agree that a lot of Chan stuff posted here looks ... questionable. But to the above names I would add Vintage Gent. His stuff fits well.

    Gee, Manton, thanks. Coming from so venerable an observer, that's high praise.
     
  2. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    How many garments had you ordered before the blazer, Vintage Gent?
     
  3. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    How many garments had you ordered before the blazer, Vintage Gent?

    Aside from shirts, my orders have been as follows:

    Suit 1 (SB, notch, ordered on tour): Sleeves much too long; more waist supression needed; both corrected
    Suit 2: (SB, peak, ordered on tour): Fine all around; no changes made
    Suit 3: (DB, ordered on tour): Only very minor changes from suit 2
    Blazer 1: (SB, ordered via e-mail from measurements on file)
    Suit 4: (DB, ordered via e-mail from measurements on file)
     
  4. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    I'm not sure what garments you're referring to, but based on personal experience, I would be inclined to put much of the blame on the customer for questionable results. Many of the SF members that patronize Chan do so with little or no previous experience with bespoke and they walk in with a laundry list of details that they want with little understanding of how those details all fit together (or not) into a coherent whole. While Patrick will try to dissuade one from the more egregious choices, the persistent customer can end up commissioning a poorly-chosen garment. Unlike many overseas vendors, Chan's customer service is excellent, too, so they will make any alterations that are necessary to make the customer happy. My only hesitation in recommending them more often is that I don't want the wait time on my orders to suffer. I would also note that Manton's comment above is probably as effusive as you could expect from him for a HK tailor.

    dan



    I have had a few problems with my Chan orders (coming up on my 9th or 10th suit now) that did not result from customer errors--they were purely production errors. But in my experience, they will fix those kinds of problems at their expense, even if it means remaking the garment.

    I would note that if you deal with them solely through US tour stops, it is very important to get a basted fitting if you want to maximize the chances of the first order being just right. I didn't do that, and while I am happy with the first suit I ordered from them, it would have been better with a basted fitting to work out some details of button stance and shoulder structure.
     
  5. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    Who else here has had a Chan sportcoat made? I think I'm going to order a blazer. I must say, though, I've seen some very mixed results posted here. A fair amount of that could be on the customer's back, but certainly not all of it.

    I've had two blazers and two sportcoats made by Chan. Just got my most recent one, a Shetland tweed hacking jacket, on Monday before last and wore it for the first time today since it has cooled down somewhat. I am extremely satisfied with my Chan sportcoats and blazers and hope to get at least a half-dozen more over the next three years or so. However, I am not the most exigent of customers. Were I a habitue of Savile Row or the top NY tailors, I might not be such a Chanfan. However, they do seem to deliver a lot for the money.

    My next purchase is likely to be a raw silk blazer with Holland & Sherry enamel buttons.
     
  6. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    I just received my first Chan order. I'll try to post pictures next week since I'd love to get feedback before my next order. But my quick reaction is that they did a fairly good job. The jacket should fit closer and the sleeves need to be shorter, but the overall silhouette is what I asked for.
     
  7. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    But certain things like Shetlands that won't last too long

    There's probably an obvious answer to this but I can't see it - I was looking at the Holland and Sherry Islay and Shetland book yesterday and it seemed like pretty sturdy stuff.

    What makes it less durable? The openness of the weave?
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shetland is made from very loosely spun yarns, and the handlooms do not yield tight weaves. It tends to get threadbare over time. This is why (among other reasons) you never see Shetland trousers.
     
  9. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shetland is made from very loosely spun yarns, and the handlooms do not yield tight weaves. It tends to get threadbare over time. This is why (among other reasons) you never see Shetland trousers.
    On the other hand, slightly threadbare shetland has its own appeal. Shetland pants... yuck.
     
  10. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On the other hand, slightly threadbare shetland has its own appeal.
    I agree. I never get two pairs of trousers with flannel suits. If the knees and waistband get a little threadbare (and they will), so what. It's flannel. It's when you get to the point of needing leather patches on jacket sleeves that you have a problem. So far that has never happened to me.
     
  11. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Thank you, Manton. I take it that other tweeds - donegal, harris, etc. - are more tightly spun and woven. Is that right?
     
  12. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    "Thornproof" is the toughest of all. Harris has loose yarns, but a lot of it and very dense. Donegal somewhat less, but tougher than Shetland. Cheviot also makes a good suit.
     

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