WW Chan suit arrived

[HitMan009]

Hey All,

Argg, My suit from WWChan finally arrived from the March visit. This is my third suit. Something is way off this time. When I put on the suit, the front is noticably shorter then the back of the suit. Somehow looking at the suit, it looks off balance also. They pretty much got my second suit done pretty nice which makes this odd. On my second suit, I requested Brioni-type shoulders. To explain it simple as possible and missing all the details in the process, the Brioni-type shoulder means padding runs from roughly 3/4 the front of the armhole all the way back to the middle of the back of the armhole. The lower part of the padding in the front and back is basically half the width of the corresponding shoulder. This is my understanding from feeling the few Brionis in my life. This is what creates what many describe as a very bold looking suit because the shoulders are not just built up slightly higher but creates a rounder shoulder. On this suit, the padding feels very different and the shoulder line is ruffled when I put it on. I think this is due to the suit being in the box so I will try to put some steam to work on it. I must say the buttonholes look very nice on this suit but the stitching on the lapel where it mets the collar looks a bit rough.

Help, what should I do?

 

[Alias]

I'm guessing the shoulder padding has something to do with the jacket being off-balance. They may have misplaced the padding, resulting in the jacket not sitting properly.

You can show us pictures of you wearing it. It will help us see what the problem could be.

 

[Luc-Emmanuel]

you should stop asking WW Chan things they can't do.

.luc

 

[kolecho]

Hitman,

I had two suits made by Chan in Hong Kong recently. Both jackets had the issue of the front being shorter than the back. Actually I did not notice this until a tailor pointed it out. Chan has lenghtened the jackets a bit, though I feel that they are still a trifle short on the front.

One jacket has perfect shoulders. The other jacket has little wrinkles along the shoulder seam leading to the collar. The shoulder pad was changed, but the problem is not completey resolved. I will use it for a while and see how it goes.

It is easier to get imperfections fixed since I am based in HK. You folks in the US have it much tougher. All said, Chan's commitment to service is second to none so far.

 

[thinman]

After reading this post, I'm getting very nervous about scheduling an appointment with Chan in July, since I won't be able to attend a second fitting. I'm still considering ordering a MTM Samuelsohn from a local men's shop that seems very good. At least I'd have easy recourse to fix any mistakes.

 

[caledoniasoul2]

i was also looking forward to a chan order..now im not so sure as alot of folks seem to be posting problems......

if you can distill anything from the recent chan posts i think that if anyone orders they should stay close to the house style as most of the problems appear to be deviations from that style.

im still concerned...and just may skip them

 

[HitMan009]

The strange part is that my second suit was on the money. I just wanted some stylish elements added to this one, namely a more open skirt, a straight lapel which is the edge of the lapel is straight and shorten the arms by 1/4". Otherwise I mentioned to him that everything else I wanted exactly the same.

 

[Stu]

i was also looking forward to a chan order..now im not so sure as alot of folks seem to be posting problems......

if you can distill anything from the recent chan posts i  think that if anyone orders they should stay close to the house style as most of the problems appear to be deviations from that style.

im still concerned...and just may skip them

I only own one suit from Chan, and it is perfect. That being said, I went with a real conservative, 2 button navy business suit with double vents and I followed Patrick's suggestions to the T: i.e. high button stance, etc. I think the moral is as Luc noted, let Chan do what it does best, and try not to get too fancy and you should be very happy.

 

[HitMan009]

i was also looking forward to a chan order..now im not so sure as alot of folks seem to be posting problems......

if you can distill anything from the recent chan posts i  think that if anyone orders they should stay close to the house style as most of the problems appear to be deviations from that style.

im still concerned...and just may skip them

I don't mean to scare anyone off.  My first suit, I will looking for an all around suit, for day to day wear and interviews.  Nothing flashy, just a nicely fitted, conserative styled suit.  It was a 3 button suit with the top button being non-functional.  Simple and clean everything. I got exactly that.  It was a VBC Revenge 130s fine herringbone grey cloth.  No major problems and the suit fit was excellent, just conserative styling elements.

My second suit, I asked for a cleaner front, a wider opening of the skirt heighten the pocket and the gorge and Brioni-styled shoulders.  This produced a very nicely styled suit.  I get many looks wearing this suit.  It's a midnight blue Loro Piana 120s cloth.  

The suit that just arrived have very weak looking shoulders which are closer fitted then the previous two.  That I think throws off the entire balance of the suit.  It makes the midsection look larger since the shoulders are closer together.  But I still don't understand why the front of the suit is shorter then the back though.  The front of the suit in all pratical matter is always longer to accommodate the bulge of the chest.  As mentioned previously, I asked for basically the same suit but only with a slightly more rounded bottom of the front, straighted-edge lapel.  I would consider this the belly of the lapel but Manton says otherwise.  I will refer to him to correct me.  I also asked him to shorten the arms by 1/4" inch.  Back to the shoulders, since the shoulders are weaker, there are small ripples that occur on the shoulder.  The stitching where the lapel meets the collar also looks a bit sloppy.  On a postive note, I got the best fitting pants ever.  The buttonholes are extremely well done.  I think what happened was this time, someone else was the cutter for the suit.  Patrick mentioned to me that during this March appointment that he was the cutter of my first and second suit.  This happens to be a narrow double-stripped Charles Clayton 150s cloth.  I will look over the suit more to see if it's just my better eye to quality or if it's really a badly cut suit.

Thanks for all the replies so far.  I hope to hear more.

 

[Stu]

 This happens to be a narrow double-stripped Charles Clayton 150s cloth.  I will look over the suit more to see if it's just my better eye to quality or if it's really a badly cut suit.

Straying a bit, but how do you like the Clayton? My next suit from Chan is going to be a tan cotton gabardine, but after that I want to move up from the LP 120 that they were selling in November.

 

[HitMan009]

Straying a bit, but how do you like the Clayton? My next suit from Chan is going to be a tan cotton gabardine, but after that I want to move up from the LP 120 that they were selling in November.

The Clayton cloth is very nice. I like the hand. It has a more sheen to it then the VBC and Loro Piana. Extremely smooth to the touch and my personal feeling on it is has that expensive look. Where as the other two fabrics look very nice, this cloth has a luxury look to it. I dunno if it's the stripes or not but IMHO it is a very nice cloth.

 

[Mr Checks]

I always have to ask this: how much are the suits?