• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

WW Chan fabrics

rob

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
474
Reaction score
89
I will be making my first forray into bespoke with WW Chan, either this fall or winter, depending on schedules. I will be paying for the additional fitting service Chan offers.

I currently have what I consider to be a good base of RTW which has been revamped and replaced over the last year. I now want to focus on adding more seasonal suits and would like to order a light gray fresco for next spring/summer. I live in Milwaukee.

I don't have any familiarity with the fabric books Chan maintains (nor any other fabric books) and I would like to know what would be a good weight, what books to focus on, how much lining to get (or not get) and anything else that will be helpful for a first timer. I think I have a good idea of the style and features I am looking for in the suit but I expect I will have some more specific questions on that as appointment nears.

Thanks.

Rob
 

Ataturk

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
14,843
Reaction score
2,935
Heavier fabrics tailor better. That's just a fact of life.

Holland & Sherry's "Crispaire" book is a little pricier than the other fresco-type fabrics, but it generally comes in the (IMO, ideal) 9/10 oz weight (the others have most of their selection in lighter weights (8.5ish). If I can wear it in the summer down here you'll be okay in Wisconsin.

Harrisons has the "frontier" book which is 10.5 oz, not exactly fresco, but it's a fairly open weave with a crisp feel.

Go for half-lined for a summer suit, of course.
 

Axelman 17

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
1,394
Reaction score
371
Not everyone on the forum agrees, but for a light gray fresco I like H&S's Crispaire book which I believe is 10/11oz and is carried by Chan.

At Patrick's urging I got my suit made with a full lining. While it hasnt been ideal for the summer in NYC, it should add some versatility for the colder months. If I was living in Wisconsin I would probably get it fully lined.
 

rob

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
474
Reaction score
89
Thanks for the responses so far.

Ataturk, from what I've read, I've heard many say to go heavier for better results and I plan on doing that so far.

Regarding the lining, I was thinking of going for a 1/4 lining vs. full, even if that limits use to spring/summer. I currently have five 10 month suits and 1 fall/winter weight. My goal is to add 3 spring/summer weights and 3 fall/winter weights.

Thanks, again.
 

Axelman 17

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
1,394
Reaction score
371
1/4 lining probably makes sense if you are fine with it being a spring/summer suit. With a weave like fresco you will get some good circulation through the jacket.

Otherwise, enjoy the visit. You should not be afraid to be hands on with Chan and give them a lot of guidance around what you are looking for. For Chan in particular, the more input you put in, the better the result.
 

rob

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
474
Reaction score
89
Axelman,

That is what I've gathered from SF. I expect I will be starting a few threads to help me push the points that will help in the final product. I will wear a suit to the fitting that has a fit and style that I would like to use as a starting point.

Rob
 

Timeless Fashion

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2009
Messages
343
Reaction score
1
Besides the H&S Crispaire, Chan also carries the J&J Minnis fresco. I believe it starts at 8/9 oz and goes up to 14/15 oz.
 

rob

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
474
Reaction score
89
Originally Posted by Timeless Fashion
Besides the H&S Crispaire, Chan also carries the J&J Minnis fresco. I believe it starts at 8/9 oz and goes up to 14/15 oz.

What are the pros and cons for H&S vs Minnis? What is the best weight for avoiding excessive wrinkling while maintaining some temp control?

Rob
 

AndrewRogers

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
1,613
Reaction score
26
Originally Posted by rob
What are the pros and cons for H&S vs Minnis? What is the best weight for avoiding excessive wrinkling while maintaining some temp control?

Rob


It won't be just weight of the cloth but how much or how little, rather, lining you request. I would personally go 9/10 oz Fresco and then focus on your lining options rather than a lighter cloth.

I have some better photographs than do J&J Minnis on their site, so check out my Flickr. Unfortunately, Chan don't do CMT, but they will have everything I've got, so it will be a start and mean less screwing about when you first see them. Also, if it helps, 9/10 oz has a softer hand than the heavier stuff, but the lighter stuff is no softer, unless the new batch of cloth has changed things, but I doubt it.
 

Ataturk

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
14,843
Reaction score
2,935
Originally Posted by rob
What are the pros and cons for H&S vs Minnis?

Selection is a big one. H&S has a much bigger selection at the 9/10 oz weight.
 

kolecho

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2004
Messages
4,048
Reaction score
866
H&S Crispaire is a fantastic 9/10 oz cloth and comes in some nice patterns. I highly recommend the book.

Minnis 8/9 oz cloth is easily the coolest cloth I have made up. If you need a real warm weather suit, get it made up quarter lined.
 

rob

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
474
Reaction score
89
Thanks for the input.

Andrew, great photos of the Minnis. This helps.

Rob
 

GBR

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2006
Messages
8,551
Reaction score
732
What is this "additional fitting service" that is chargeable. Is this some peculiarity of the US tour - I don't expect to pay a tailor of Chan's standing extra for fittings!
 

rob

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
474
Reaction score
89
My understanding is that the basic fee gets you measured and then a suit is mailed to you. If you pay an extra $200 or so, they will have one additional fitting and the cost basically covers the mailing expenses incurred. Will at ASW explained it on his blog.

Rob
 

Ataturk

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
14,843
Reaction score
2,935
As far as I know, the extra fittings are free--it's the cost of shipping and customs they ask you to cover. If it's actually $200, I don't know.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.5%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 60 38.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 11.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.4%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 28 18.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,203
Messages
10,579,251
Members
223,890
Latest member
2sleight
Top