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WW Chan coat fit -- comments needed. Concerns

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by bboysdontcryy, May 11, 2012.

  1. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    [​IMG].

    So, having heard about WW Chan, I decided to pay them a visit. Had a coat cut from H Lesser's 8-9 oz fabric.

    Here's the final product. Please do offer some critique/comments on the coat and tell me if it's just me, or whether the coat can be cut better, given the piling/creases on the back, just beneath the collar.

    In addition, what do you guys think of the sleeve pitch? On my hanger, whilst one sleeve hangs neatly, the other has a curve forward, and no surprises for guessing which sleeve it is - the left sleeve.

    I wasn't expecting this with a bespoke coat, but should I temper my expectations or are these really fundamental concerns that should be addressed?

    Comments appreciated.

    *To give them credit when it's due, the front looks pretty good.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2012
  2. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Are we looking at the same picture? I don't see a terrible excess of fabric on the back.

    Impossible to tell of sleeve pitch with a picture like this.
     
  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    What do you make of the creases/piling beneath the collar? Should I be expecting it to be cleaner?
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2012
  4. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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  5. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    As a basis of comparison, look at the clean back of this coat cut at Iris tailor in Singapore --


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2012
  6. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    I don't think it's normal because all my other coats don't have that problem., which is why I wanted second opinions.

    And, whilst it might be normal on most suits, you shouldn't be expecting it on a bespoke suit. That's what I think.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2012
  7. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    I'd ask them to clean up the back were it me.
     
  8. chocsosa

    chocsosa Senior member

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    From what it seems, its a little tight in the back. From my experience they can let out some in the back seem near the neck area or raise the collar..I think they just need to let it out a little bit in the upper part near the collar and you should be ok. As for the sleeve pitch, its a usual issue for any RTW or custom without any fittings.. they make the sleeves usually at a 90 degree angle where your arms probably dont hang that way. Its causes the creasing in the sleeves in the back. A skilled tailor would need to take off the sleeves and rotate them to the normal angle of how yours arms hang. Easier on a fused suit but harder on a canvassed jacket...
     
  9. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Strangely the Iris coat seems to be pulling slightly at the vent. If you are unhappy go back, explain your concerns, it is a little strange but a tailor is better placed to comment. Chan is not averse to discussions. Wear the Iris coat to go if you are happy with that.
     
  10. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Your Chan certainly needs to be fixed, and its a common-enough problem that they should be able to rectify it easily.

    Not sure why some are saying that 'its not a big deal' or 'a little strange' - this is a VERY common issue that comes up during fittings. Chan doesn't offer one, so its not surprising that this wasn't caught.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2012
  11. hymo

    hymo Senior member

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    May I know how many fittings you had for this jacket? Was Patrick your fitter?
     
  12. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Since when has Chan not offered fittings? On anything I have had made in HK, two fittings were normal. I agree that items bought from tours do not normally go through fittings because of the time problem.
     
  13. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    ^ I thought the OP was in S'pore so presumed he opted for their traveling (i.e. no fitting) service. Regardless, this is a common problem (not a 'little strange' or 'not a big deal') and should be fixed by the tailor.
     
  14. marburymadison

    marburymadison Well-Known Member

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    Frankly, I think any self-respecting tailor wouldn't let his customer walk out of his shop clad in a jacket that fits like that. Those creases beneath the collar should be straightened out. That goes without saying.

    I've been to tailors in HK, A Man Hing Cheong being one of the few I've patronized, and never encountered such a problem.

    OP, speak with Patrick or whoever was in charge of your fittings and let us know how it turns out.
     
  15. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    I'm actually working in DC, and understand it's typical that Chan doesn't offer fittings for suits whilst they're on tour.

    However, I made a trip to HK so I was fitted there. I'm guessing that these 'common problems' should have been caught, and rectified, during the fittings then?
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2012
  16. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Hymo, indeed. He was my fitter. Is there a particular reason for this question?
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2012
  17. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Yes, without a doubt.
     
  18. hymo

    hymo Senior member

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    It's that I've seen Patrick deliver many well fitted suits over the years. It's unfortunate there's a glitch with yours.
     
  19. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    I'm surprised it looks like this after a fitting too. Were standing very erect with your shoulders held back at the fitting? And/or were you standing with your shoulders pushed forward for the photo? Either one could cause horizontal lines. If it isn't one of these things, I'm sure Patrick will fix it the next time you're in HK.

    Same goes for the sleeves if there are problems there. But I wouldn't worry how they look on the hanger. All that matters is how they look on you.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2012
  20. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    I know what you mean. I've had several coats cut for me before, so I know not to make the horrendous mistake of standing in too erect a manner. I was standing in my natural posture, in pretty much the same way as I am in the photo.

    In fact, I thought that my standing posture might be a cause for concern which is why I experimented with all conceivable standing postures and had photos taken. The horizontal lines remained, or got worse, thus pointing to the fact that it wasn't due to my standing posture.

    Actually, the sleeves don't look good, in my opinion. Even my spouse who knows nothing about menswear asked me why my right sleeve seems to fit differently from the left, and why there are that meany creases on the right sleeve.

    In any case, I've sent them a mail, and asked them for possible reasons for why this is so. They might help shed some light on this.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2012

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