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WSJ: Neapolitan Tailoring in Japan

Cantabrigian

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WSJ said:
Noriyuki Higashi, a 34-year-old who makes suits in Osaka under the Sarto Domenica brand, is so fascinated by Neapolitan suit-making that after returning home from a stint in Naples and taking a day job, he spends nights and weekends making jackets. Unlike every other Neapolitan-style tailor I know of in Japan or Italy, Higashi also does everything by hand and nothing with a sewing machine.
The author actually seems to know a bit so I'd almost be inclined to take him at his word. If that's true, it's pretty impressive. Totally unnecessary but impressive.
 

bourbonbasted

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Although the coat looks technically good there's something amiss. It doesn't flatter him like it should.

+1. It doesn't help that the mannequin behind him fills out the coat properly. The waist and chest of this jacket make it look like he just lost a lot of weight or is borrowing his dad's jacket. Plus, given his shoulder slope, I think something with a bit more structure would do him good. The color palette is also terrible (far too saturated beige in the jacket, shirt and tie). However, that's a bit more subjective.
 

jrd617

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+1. It doesn't help that the mannequin behind him fills out the coat properly. The waist and chest of this jacket make it look like he just lost a lot of weight or is borrowing his dad's jacket. Plus, given his shoulder slope, I think something with a bit more structure would do him good. The color palette is also terrible (far too saturated beige in the jacket, shirt and tie). However, that's a bit more subjective.

Sloping shoulders + the very low stance is what's contributing to this I think

Proof of why soft shoulders don't work for everyone

Also, why is he showing like OVER AN INCH of cuff?
 
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Cantabrigian

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The waist and chest of this jacket make it look like he just lost a lot of weight or is borrowing his dad's jacket. Plus, given his shoulder slope, I think something with a bit more structure would do him good.

I think he could benefit from a fuller chest. Dude's obviously rail thin so a little drape would do him good.

I might agree with you on the waist but I'd want to see it with a not-uber-low button stance before saying he needs the waist taken in.

I'm cool with unpadded shoulders even if they're sloping. I don't think anyone has ever mistaken him for a linebacker and I'm willing to bet that isn't what he's aiming for.
 

bourbonbasted

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I think he could benefit from a fuller chest. Dude's obviously rail thin so a little drape would do him good.

I might agree with you on the waist but I'd want to see it with a not-uber-low button stance before saying he needs the waist taken in.

I'm cool with unpadded shoulders even if they're sloping. I don't think anyone has ever mistaken him for a linebacker and I'm willing to bet that isn't what he's aiming for.

Think you're definitely right about the button stance. And I am 100% un-padded shoulders all the time (granted, I have rather wide shoulders for my height), so I hear you there as well. However, I think, given his natural stance and build, he should be doing things a lot differently... my $0.02.

Also, why is he showing like OVER AN INCH of cuff?

:uhoh:
 
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