WS Foster bespoke brown cap toe Oxford

[jamaican]

Dear Gentlemen

A sartorial emergency of Epic proportions. An impending appointment with WS Foster & Friends and a man who thinks he is right, but is just so very wrong.

WHAT COULD IT BE?!

Nothing else but the quest for the perfect last... or at least the "right" last for the most classic of shoes. "Square" or "round" on the cap toe Oxford?

There is not much to the cap toe Oxford, which makes making it most elegant a supreme challenge. There is no distraction with broguing or other decorations that might otherwise tickle the eye... just the cap toe and a sweep line from front of laces towards the heel.

What is the received wisdom? What is the answer o learned ones?

The saga continues... Ulysses sails on... and, oh how I need help - again. This is complicated so pay attention:

Say a friend of mine has a Fosters Terry Moore last - your typical Fosters toe treatment like on the pink bleached brogues of Mr Jun Kuwana, collector of the most exquisite shoes, like this: http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/f...unt100-top.htm

My friend, blessed fellow that he is, is now thinking of a plain stitch cap oxford. In this kind of colour for his blue suits: http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2010...y-part-11.html

He says he is not interested in RTW or MTO or anything but bespoke. I tried to dissuade him with EG Top Drawer and the Anthony Cleverley range. He guffawed and said he will not be moved.

I told him that he should not use the same square last for the cap toe as the toe shape is unsuitable. He should use one like this: http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/h...maxwell04.html

(I think this was done by Emiko Matsuda, also of Fosters); OR like this:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=59658 (JLP Bespoke oldtimey samples, WOW!)

He says I'm a blithering "illiot" [idiot] - which is untrue and rather unkind - and that "...Moore's last is king, [Charlie] Watts [and some other garbled names I have not heard of] go there. Further more, what the heck [ok, he said something a little more spicy than "heck"] do I know?!"

Since I am not largely experienced in these matters, I wondered if your eminences could once again condescend to assist my friend and I. Is there a thread that I could refer him to where this has already been discussed?

He wants nothing fashion forward. Wants a classic shoe. Elegant. Beautiful.

What is your gut feeling? Bespoke stitch cap Oxford on a round or square last?

J

 

[upnorth]

let him make his own decision. He will either be supremely pleased with himself or learn the lesson the hard way. More importantly, sans your input, he will unlikely attach blame to you for the consequences of his own choice.

 

[bengal-stripe]

There is no problem to adjust a square-toe last into a "˜smart-round' one (and reversing that process if a subsequent pair ought to be square again). This is the advantage of a bespoke last, it can be adjusted for different styles: for a country shoe build up the toe, for a monk strap build up the instep etc.

The choice of toe shape is a very personal one and depends on an individual's preference. If your friend opts for a "˜smart-round' toe, it still will be the same Terry Moore last.

 

[culverwood]

Whilst I think you are right style-wise it is his money and his decision. I am sure he will talk it over with Emiko or Emma or whoever is making his shoes and come to a conclusion he is happy with.

This Foster cap toe though a brogue shows a squareish toe shape

 

[jamaican]

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

There is no problem to adjust a square-toe last into a ‘smart-round’ one (and reversing that process if a subsequent pair ought to be square again). This is the advantage of a bespoke last, it can be adjusted for different styles: for a country shoe build up the toe, for a monk strap build up the instep etc.

The choice of toe shape is a very personal one and depends on an individual’s preference. If your friend opts for a ‘smart-round’ toe, it still will be the same Terry Moore last.

Bengal-stripe

I think he means toe shape.

I was not aware of all of the ways that the bespoke last could be manipulated. Thaks for the eductaion. J

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by jamaican

What is your gut feeling? Bespoke stitch cap Oxford on a round or square last?

J

round, though i don't care much about oxfords.

 

[luk-cha]

http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/f...nt110-top.html

this would be my vote from F&S great shapes and style

edit;
http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/f...5/outside.html

this might even push the bar closer

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Why does this have to be an end all decision? Have him get a shape that is most appealing now, and in the future get another. I think there is room in anybody's wardrobe for many toe shapes even with the same finish.

 

[bleachboy]

Originally Posted by fritzl

round, though i don't care much about oxfords.

I came into this thread wondering how much fritzl cared about oxfords, and left satisfied.

 

[jamaican]

Originally Posted by luk-cha

http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/f...nt110-top.html

this would be my vote from F&S great shapes and style

edit;
http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/f...5/outside.html

this might even push the bar closer

Luk-cha thanks. Lets stay focussed and not get high on pictures of JK's shoes... question is round toe or square on a plain, brown, cap toe Oxford. What's your take on that dude? J

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by culverwood

This Foster cap toe though a brogue shows a squareish toe shape

If you ask Terry to make the "Foster shoe", this is the toe he will give you. It should be the first in my opinion. Any of the London makers will give you a round toe.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by bleachboy

I came into this thread wondering how much fritzl cared about oxfords, and left satisfied.

i'm always glad to do you a favour.

ps: just wanted to be in.

 

[jamaican]

Originally Posted by Will

If you ask Terry to make the "Foster shoe", this is the toe he will give you. It should be the first in my opinion. Any of the London makers will give you a round toe.

You make a very valid point. I did not even consider that. See, that's why I open up my arguments to the "council of sartorial knowledge". If Will's point holds I think that point may trump any style points/opinions on the most suitable last for the shoe. Blast! Does that mean my friend is right and I am wrong?! Argh! J

 

[Kuro]

width should be taken into account (wide foot and square toe is a bad combo imho)...

 

[rabiesinfrance]

Originally Posted by culverwood

Whilst I think you are right style-wise it is his money and his decision. I am sure he will talk it over with Emiko or Emma or whoever is making his shoes and come to a conclusion he is happy with. This Foster cap toe though a brogue shows a squareish toe shape

That's a grim looking (quality) shoe. I don't see the appeal of that ridiculous chiseled toe shape - does not do the shoe justice at all. Faded toe cap - even worse! Horrible. Still, horses for courses.