• We would like to welcome Sprezzabox to the Styleforum family as an official Affiliate Vendor! SprezzaBox is a monthly subscription service for men, delivering a unique selection of fashion and lifestyle accessories right to your doorstep.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

WS Foster bespoke brown cap toe Oxford

jamaican

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2006
Messages
284
Reaction score
1
Dear Gentlemen

A sartorial emergency of Epic proportions. An impending appointment with WS Foster & Friends and a man who thinks he is right, but is just so very wrong.

WHAT COULD IT BE?!

Nothing else but the quest for the perfect last... or at least the "right" last for the most classic of shoes. "Square" or "round" on the cap toe Oxford?

There is not much to the cap toe Oxford, which makes making it most elegant a supreme challenge. There is no distraction with broguing or other decorations that might otherwise tickle the eye... just the cap toe and a sweep line from front of laces towards the heel.

What is the received wisdom? What is the answer o learned ones?

The saga continues... Ulysses sails on... and, oh how I need help - again. This is complicated so pay attention:

Say a friend of mine has a Fosters Terry Moore last - your typical Fosters toe treatment like on the pink bleached brogues of Mr Jun Kuwana, collector of the most exquisite shoes, like this: http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/f...unt100-top.htm

My friend, blessed fellow that he is, is now thinking of a plain stitch cap oxford. In this kind of colour for his blue suits: http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2010...y-part-11.html

He says he is not interested in RTW or MTO or anything but bespoke. I tried to dissuade him with EG Top Drawer and the Anthony Cleverley range. He guffawed and said he will not be moved.

I told him that he should not use the same square last for the cap toe as the toe shape is unsuitable. He should use one like this: http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/h...maxwell04.html

(I think this was done by Emiko Matsuda, also of Fosters); OR like this:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=59658 (JLP Bespoke oldtimey samples, WOW!)

He says I'm a blithering "illiot" [idiot] - which is untrue and rather unkind - and that "...Moore's last is king, [Charlie] Watts [and some other garbled names I have not heard of] go there. Further more, what the heck [ok, he said something a little more spicy than "heck"] do I know?!"

Since I am not largely experienced in these matters, I wondered if your eminences could once again condescend to assist my friend and I. Is there a thread that I could refer him to where this has already been discussed?

He wants nothing fashion forward. Wants a classic shoe. Elegant. Beautiful.

What is your gut feeling? Bespoke stitch cap Oxford on a round or square last?

J
 

upnorth

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,503
Reaction score
13
let him make his own decision. He will either be supremely pleased with himself or learn the lesson the hard way. More importantly, sans your input, he will unlikely attach blame to you for the consequences of his own choice.
 

bengal-stripe

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 23, 2002
Messages
4,547
Reaction score
1,029
There is no problem to adjust a square-toe last into a "˜smart-round' one (and reversing that process if a subsequent pair ought to be square again). This is the advantage of a bespoke last, it can be adjusted for different styles: for a country shoe build up the toe, for a monk strap build up the instep etc.

The choice of toe shape is a very personal one and depends on an individual's preference. If your friend opts for a "˜smart-round' toe, it still will be the same Terry Moore last.
 

culverwood

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
2,103
Reaction score
428
Whilst I think you are right style-wise it is his money and his decision. I am sure he will talk it over with Emiko or Emma or whoever is making his shoes and come to a conclusion he is happy with.

This Foster cap toe though a brogue shows a squareish toe shape
 

jamaican

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2006
Messages
284
Reaction score
1
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe
There is no problem to adjust a square-toe last into a ‘smart-round’ one (and reversing that process if a subsequent pair ought to be square again). This is the advantage of a bespoke last, it can be adjusted for different styles: for a country shoe build up the toe, for a monk strap build up the instep etc.

The choice of toe shape is a very personal one and depends on an individual’s preference. If your friend opts for a ‘smart-round’ toe, it still will be the same Terry Moore last.


Bengal-stripe

I think he means toe shape.

I was not aware of all of the ways that the bespoke last could be manipulated. Thaks for the eductaion. J
 

fritzl

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
12,391
Reaction score
245
Originally Posted by jamaican
What is your gut feeling? Bespoke stitch cap Oxford on a round or square last?

J


round, though i don't care much about oxfords.
 

patrickBOOTH

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
36,426
Reaction score
11,113
Why does this have to be an end all decision? Have him get a shape that is most appealing now, and in the future get another. I think there is room in anybody's wardrobe for many toe shapes even with the same finish.
 

bleachboy

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
1,800
Reaction score
27
Originally Posted by fritzl
round, though i don't care much about oxfords.

I came into this thread wondering how much fritzl cared about oxfords, and left satisfied.
 

jamaican

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2006
Messages
284
Reaction score
1

fritzl

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
12,391
Reaction score
245
Originally Posted by bleachboy
I came into this thread wondering how much fritzl cared about oxfords, and left satisfied.

i'm always glad to do you a favour.

ps: just wanted to be in.
 

jamaican

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2006
Messages
284
Reaction score
1
Originally Posted by Will
If you ask Terry to make the "Foster shoe", this is the toe he will give you. It should be the first in my opinion. Any of the London makers will give you a round toe.

You make a very valid point. I did not even consider that. See, that's why I open up my arguments to the "council of sartorial knowledge". If Will's point holds I think that point may trump any style points/opinions on the most suitable last for the shoe. Blast! Does that mean my friend is right and I am wrong?! Argh! J
 

Kuro

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
2,537
Reaction score
147
width should be taken into account (wide foot and square toe is a bad combo imho)...
 

rabiesinfrance

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2010
Messages
373
Reaction score
14
Originally Posted by culverwood
Whilst I think you are right style-wise it is his money and his decision. I am sure he will talk it over with Emiko or Emma or whoever is making his shoes and come to a conclusion he is happy with. This Foster cap toe though a brogue shows a squareish toe shape

That's a grim looking (quality) shoe. I don't see the appeal of that ridiculous chiseled toe shape - does not do the shoe justice at all. Faded toe cap - even worse! Horrible. Still, horses for courses.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How wide do you like your leg opening on your trousers?

  • 7”

    Votes: 87 17.5%
  • 7.5”

    Votes: 158 31.7%
  • 8”

    Votes: 144 28.9%
  • 8.5”

    Votes: 58 11.6%
  • 9”

    Votes: 26 5.2%
  • 9.5”

    Votes: 11 2.2%
  • 10”

    Votes: 5 1.0%
  • 10.5”

    Votes: 9 1.8%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
433,917
Messages
9,320,316
Members
195,569
Latest member
rianarris
Top