Wot Jermyn str. (RTW) shirts are best?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Jerome, Mar 29, 2008.

  1. ed1234

    ed1234 Well-Known Member

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    I find Harvie & Hudson to be like tents, though I do suffer from large neck, normal body syndrome. The absence of a slim fit range (probably reflective of their clients) is enough to put me off. And they're a real pain in the ass to iron too.

    CT are cheap and (IMO) considerably better than TM Lewin (certianly well worth the extra £8-10 per shirt). They're good work shirts where they're going through the wash regularly and you're not bothered if you chuck them after a year.

    Pink are better for casual shirts than they are formal. Quality is on a par with CT but CT are half the price and you get proper brass collarbones.

    The "tier one" in my view (and I spend a fair amount of saturday afternoons stalking Jermyn Street [​IMG]) are T&A; Emma Willis and H&K.
     


  2. mink31

    mink31 Senior member

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    BTW, Coles has some nice slim fit, cutaway collar models on sale on their website for $80 shipped. IMO, T&A has the most slim "regular" fit. Beware though, T&A collars tend to run about a half size smaller than labeled and their cuffs are a bit tight--something that I've always thought of as their admirable attempt to keep people wearing "proper" double sided cuff links[​IMG] H&K is best had from eBay, if you can find one in decent shape--they sell for next to nothing consistently. eBay's also a great source for Lewin, since no one's heard of them in the US. There's always a ton of T&A available on the 'bay for what I think are often-inflated prices, but it always depends on your size.
     


  3. gordon gartrell

    gordon gartrell Well-Known Member

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    Very well said!!!!


    Well, it seems to me you're comparing apples and pears. There is the category of 'Jermyn street shirt'. H&K belongs in that category. So does T&A, Ede & Ravenscroft, some others.

    Then there is a big gap in quality -- and then you get to the category of Jermyn Street copyists. These shirt makers have taken the basic design and type of patterns offered by Jermyn Street and make them in cheap-labor locations, with lesser quality materials and much lower standards of workmanship. Clearly, CT falls in this category of Jermyn Street for the masses. As does Pink.

    Now, compare with cars. For a family of five owning two or three Hondas probably makes a lot more sense than owning one Bentley. Practical needs unfortunately must come first, given budget restraints.

    But let's not pretend Bentleys and Hondas belong to the same category of thing.
     


  4. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    H&K's RTW shirts are the best quality RTW on Jermyn St. Turnbull & Asser's RTW shirts are well made and may be more elegant with their pronounced collar and flashy 3-button cuff.

    +1 - and a good value on their "Sale By Mail"
     


  5. Bishop of Briggs

    Bishop of Briggs Senior member

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    I am a loyal H&K customer but I plan to try Budd's Italian twills in the near future. I would put Budd in the top tier with Willis and H&K. T&A collars are too stiff for me.
     


  6. Jerome

    Jerome Senior member

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    From my experience I must say:

    Tyrwhitt was not that satisfactory: the collar on the one spread shirt has a tendency to loose touch with "reality" i.e. with the front. The casual shirts were ok if not of high quality.

    For the same/lower priced ones my favs are: Harvie and Hudson and TM Lewin (I just saw some poster complaining about their recent service and must say that I ordered my last one at the end of the 90s but they have held up very well).

    Yeah and higher category is maybe H&K; seems cool- I will order that (and T&A) next and report back but till now those two makers (H&H & Lewin) are my favs. (Pink doesnt strike a chord in me for some reason, maybe the whole PR take of them is not mine or whatever).
     


  7. Jerome

    Jerome Senior member

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    P.S. Here are some I ordered from Tyrwhit recently the FC blue monochrome one was the prob shirt the others while of low quality were ok....
    [​IMG]
     


  8. Doc4

    Doc4 Senior member

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    what is "H&K"?



    I have a bunch of CT shirts that I use as regular workhorse shirts for work, and casual ones too. I've ordered from them for several years, and have found that the fabric quality has gone downhill (the Sea Island quality shirts from three years ago blow the current ones out of the water.)

    I'm the guy who owns three Hondas.

    But the fit seems good for me (although I prefer their "slim fit" shirts ... and the BMI Index tells me to lose 25 lbs. !!)
     


  9. Jerome

    Jerome Senior member

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    Hi Doc4, With H&K I simply meant "Hilditch and Keý".

    So you say trhe fabric is good,
    Were your shirts cutaway collars, to btw? (like the one I complained about?)
     


  10. Doc4

    Doc4 Senior member

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    Hi Doc4, With H&K I simply meant "Hilditch and Keý".

    So you say trhe fabric is good,
    Were your shirts cutaway collars, to btw? (like the one I complained about?)


    Thanks.

    Well, the fabric was good. Not so good now, but still okay. Mine are all regular collars, as I buy the slim-fit shirts & those don't have the cutaway collar.
     


  11. Bunny

    Bunny Member

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    Even though I would love to try some Harvie & Hudson shirts due to the feedback from SF members, I find myself going back to Tyrwhitt simply because it's such a superior shopping experience. CT has many times the selection in patterns, readily available in all sizes, fits and cuff types.

    When I found a pattern I liked at H&H, chances were that it wasn't available as a slim fit barrel cuff 15.5/33. Let alone 3 shirts like that to benefit from the 3-for-100 deal. Add to that triple the shipping costs of CT, and CT's undisputedly fantastic customer service, and H&H loses some of it's appeal. Which is a shame really, because there is no reason to doubt the testimonies here that an H&H shirt, once you found one that's right for you, is of superior quality to CT shirts.

    Is that also true for H&H standard shirts vs. CT Sea Island by the way? Those seem more comparable in pricing.
     


  12. BAB

    BAB Senior member

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    Even though I would love to try some Harvie & Hudson shirts due to the feedback from SF members, I find myself going back to Tyrwhitt simply because it's such a superior shopping experience. CT has many times the selection in patterns, readily available in all sizes, fits and cuff types.

    When I found a pattern I liked at H&H, chances were that it wasn't available as a slim fit barrel cuff 15.5/33. Let alone 3 shirts like that to benefit from the 3-for-100 deal. Add to that triple the shipping costs of CT, and CT's undisputedly fantastic customer service, and H&H loses some of it's appeal. Which is a shame really, because there is no reason to doubt the testimonies here that an H&H shirt, once you found one that's right for you, is of superior quality to CT shirts.

    Is that also true for H&H standard shirts vs. CT Sea Island by the way? Those seem more comparable in pricing.


    I have 3 H&H shirts and 2 CT SIC. They're nice shirts, both very well made, though CT don't do pattern matching.. Other than that they're practically in the same league..
     


  13. manouche

    manouche Senior member

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    I have about 40 H&K shirts =

    Some had plastic buttons, a few too large collars and some too shorts sleeves.
    But I think I was unlucky.
    They are good shirts, nice fabrics and good construction (single needle stitching and matching patterns).
    The collar and cuffs are very soft.
    Button cuffs are boring and have a pocket.


    I have 20 H&H shirts =

    One had plastic buttons. One doesn't match stripes. All the other are good.
    They are good shirts, nice fabrics and matching stripes.
    The collar and cuffs are stiff.



    I have about 10 T&A shirts =

    The shirts are much slimmer than H&K and H&H.
    The French cuffs are too tight and not rounded.
    The buttons cuffs are great.


    Conclusion :

    For buttons cuffs, I would take T&A.
    For french cuffs, I would take both H&K and H&H.
     


  14. UK2004

    UK2004 Senior member

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    Am a big fan myself of Italian shirts but own several Jermyn street shirts just for the British pattern fabrics. Personally find Harvie and Hudson to be like tents as mentioned above and not particularly nice fabric and very rude service. The commercial big business type makers like tywhitt pink and hawes curtis are a load of mass produced junk. My experience with Hilditch and Key and New and Lingwood has been rlatively good the fabrics are better, buttons are thin not very nice and the finishing is very mas producing not great stitching but the fabrics are comfortable and they have some nice patterns adn collars and the fits are better but these comabnies need to learn about service, New and Lingwood is old fashioned English and is ok as tha's what you expect but Hilditch and Key have become very modern and plastic wrapping on shirts is not very nice. They could certainly learn some lessons about service and rpesentation from the likes of Brioni and Kiton and Borelli Napoli but in fairness the price is very different but to summarise my recommendation is N adn L and H and K for a Jermyn Street shirt. Forgot to add can't stand Turnbull and Asser ugliest collar in the business!
     


  15. Jerome

    Jerome Senior member

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    With New and Lingwood I havent made a good experience when ordering some stuff (knit ties mostly) online...they never answered any mails, "accidentially" booked the double price from my card so that I had to tell VISA to chancel the one post...unfortunately I love their stuff (also shoes etc.-from the looks of them)...I dont even think that its That overpriced cause its also somehow a bit "special"...anyway, maybe they dont like the net business overly much and have some idiotically inflated self-image being oh-so-hardcore-traditional or whatever- I will look by their town store in London when I'm over there...

    Somehow Turnbull and Asser is too "old man" for me- old fart shirts somehow- dont like their aesthetic at all and so wont buy anything from them (only their cufflinks look good)...meaning: next is Hilditch and Key (that name has a good ring to it so its worth trying...)
     


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