Worsted wool for Navy Blazer

[WayneLyndon]

Hello everyone, long time follower here.

This shall be my first topic. I've read this forum awfully lot, as well as other forums and sites regarding Classic Menswear. I've watched youtube-videos of CM and so forth. Without full disclosure of the subject:

Can I wear worsted navy blazer with chinos? Or, is there such a thing as navy blazer in worsted wool (S120 in this case) at all?

My general everydaystyle is sport coats with chinos (or cords), OCBD shirts with ties and derby or loafers as shoes. Ivy in mind but not necessarily strictly endorsed in every details. Now by curiosity I ordered a blazer with patch pockets, but as I'm waiting for the jacket to arrive I'm getting more and more nervous: can I wear it at all?

Will it clash too much with other materials as cotton trousers?

If so, could anyone here live with that? Is there any way around it at all? If you'd say outright that I should return it, could you in same token try to see any possible options for it? At the moment I don't own any woolen trousers and not planning to buy either (strict budget in clothes).

I know hopsack and other classic fabrics are usually recommended, but nowhere is worsted wool actually forbidden or denied as an option. What are your experinces on this?

I value your opinions.

PS. sorry for my english, not my native language.

 

[wafflingwaffles]

Bumping this as I'm thinking of getting a worsted navy blazer (with patch pockets) made

It appears that generally most people are in favour of hopsack for a navy blazer but i already have a hopsack blazer (and I find that I don't wear it that much although that might be because it's too light/too blue)

Worsted navy blazers feel like a very Brooks Brothers thing (read: gold buttons) but curious to hear others' thoughts thanks

 

[Bromley]

People like hopsack for navy blazers because the weave gives some surface interest without being too loud.

 

[WayneLyndon]

Is there actually such thing as worsted wool blazer or is worsted blazer just a bastardized version of actual suit jacket? Are blazers by definition something else than super-100s? I’m talking about traditional definition here even if it doesn’t actually matter.

 

[classicalthunde]

I used H&S Cape Horn classic midnight navy serge/twill, it’s pretty close to the classic BB blazer fabrics.

Fox Bros midnight hopsack is pretty good too

also saw some people suggest Harrison’s moonbeam serge/twill for a version

 

[dieworkwear]

Is there actually such thing as worsted wool blazer or is worsted blazer just a bastardized version of actual suit jacket? Are blazers by definition something else than super-100s? I’m talking about traditional definition here even if it doesn’t actually matter.

I think people use the term worsted differently. All wool is either worsted or woolen. Worsted just means the fibers have been combed before being spun into yarn. This sets the hairs parallel to each other and removes any shorter fibers that would spoil the character of a worsted (smoother, crisper, etc). Woolens aren't combed, which is why they have hairs sticking in every direction and often feel spongier.

Technically, all fabric is either worsted or woolen. Serge, which can be used for blazers, is a type of worsted. Tweeds are typically woolen. Flannel can be either.

But I think people commonly use worsted to refer to very smooth, shiny fabrics that are used for suits. Those smooth, Super 100s, suit fabrics are also worsted, but they are not the only type of worsted. Anything that's not woolen (uncombed) is worsted (combed)

 

[WayneLyndon]

Right, gotcha. I meant the shiny smooth fabric. Would blazer mentioned in the beginning work with anything because of it, or would a true navy blazer be, because of separate trousers and coarser fabric, in the category of sportcoats. I would say yes but my question was, could the ’blazer’ in hand, with these parameters confirmed, disguise itself as a proper blazer.

For me the question is not that relevant anymore, although I still wonder if I should replace the buttons of the jacket mentioned to brass buttons..

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

FWIW, the Armoury is doing a blazer for their 10th anniversary in a super 160s fabric. However, it is supposed to be a winter weight blazer, so probably not what you normally think of when you think of super 160s.

 

[dieworkwear]

Right, gotcha. I meant the shiny smooth fabric. Would blazer mentioned in the beginning work with anything because of it, or would a true navy blazer be, because of separate trousers and coarser fabric, in the category of sportcoats. I would say yes but my question was, could the ’blazer’ in hand, with these parameters confirmed, disguise itself as a proper blazer.

For me the question is not that relevant anymore, although I still wonder if I should replace the buttons of the jacket mentioned to brass buttons..

Hard to say without seeing a photo. If it looks right, then it's right. If not, then it's not.

If it's a shiny, smooth cloth that feels very silky, it's probably a suit jacket and can't be worn on its own.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

Is there actually such thing as worsted wool blazer or is worsted blazer just a bastardized version of actual suit jacket? Are blazers by definition something else than super-100s? I’m talking about traditional definition here even if it doesn’t actually matter.

Numerous people order navy blazers from worsted suiting fabric.
Needs to be worn with trousers also made from worsted suiting fabric for it to look good.
It is a very regal look.
Much nicer than such casual fabric like hopsack.
Thomas Mahon did one recently.
Me also order bespoke blazer with Lessers 12 oz,
great option.

Forum wisdom say don't do it,
but forum wisdom often wrong.

 

[ladislav.jancik]

Last year I ordered blazer in H. Lesser LGB 11oz worsted flannel. I like how it looks and feels, I never liked neither look nor hand feel of hopsack cloth. And another traditional blazer cloth serge is basically worsted twill without any surface interest, moreover it can become shiny pretty fast in friction areas.