World's greatest overcoat - replacing fur lining?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Clovis Sangrail, Jan 17, 2013.

  1. Clovis Sangrail

    Clovis Sangrail Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    A few months ago I bought this bespoke Edwardian overcoat (4 December 1907) : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251158623268 (well car-coat really) because it reminded of a coat I had once seen the Prince of Wales sporting in a photo. Some random fellow even blogged about the coat a few months later: http://the-shoe-aristocat.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/vintage-gentlemans-astrakhan-overcoat.html

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    It's a real beauty and fits like a glove. I particularly like the slight A-line of the coat and hte scalloped turn-back cuffs. It also doesn't make you look like an extra from a period drama - just looks lux and a bit Russian.

    Anyway, the coat is so old more, than 100 years, that despite being in mint condition when I received it, and despite me wearing it less than a half dozen times and carefully at that, the ancient leather of the fur lining and astrakhan collar is starting to crack in places. It is a relatively small problem now, but not one that I think cannot be fixed - the fur is just really old and delicate. The superstructure of the coat itself is fine and looks brand new.

    I want to replace the collar and fur lining at some stage this year i.e. before next winter, but am not really sold on fur (unless it is antique/second hand) from an ethical point of view.

    Can anyone advise on the best way to resolve this issue? I had thought of buying up some 1980s fur coats and an astrakhan coat on ebay and then asking a furrier to canibalise them to replace the lining/collar - is this possibe?

    I live in London now and travel to Paris a bit - so I can't imagine that finding the necessary craftsman will be impossible - but if anyone could suggest a seamstress or furrier for the job that would be great.

    Some snaps of the coat can be seen at the ebay link or below:

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    Here are some snaps that inspired me to pick it up.

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  2. Varmant

    Varmant Well-Known Member

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    Why are you bothered about replacing the fur with fur? Fur is only a by-product of the meat industry. No less animals will die if you chose a synthetic replacement. Excellent post too and thank you for the photos.
     
  3. Clovis Sangrail

    Clovis Sangrail Well-Known Member

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    Feel it would detract from the integrity of the garment if I didn't at least shoot for replacing like to like. Also not sure one can get fake Astrakhan.
     
  4. sparrow

    sparrow Senior member

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    that is crazy good looking for a 100 year old coat..!
     
  5. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    very very very cool
     
  6. HansderHund

    HansderHund Senior member

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    Love it. If you're opposed to replacing it with new fur, I'd say that a good furrier should be able to piece something together from similar pelts that you could provide. That's for the lining, at least. I'm sure the furrier would also be willing to field questions/give suggestions to your situation in regards to the collar. I wouldn't be surprised if the pros need to be somewhat tactful in how they discuss fur today.

    I had been looking for a (beaver) fur collared coat for awhile and finally found one before winter. I've gotten quite a bit of use from it. It's an older Aquascutum, but not nearly the age of yours.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    That coat rules OP. Make sure to take care of it.
     
  8. Clovis Sangrail

    Clovis Sangrail Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I'm trying to. I actually feel a bit guilty wearing it - suppose it should be in a costume museum - when doing so inherently damages to the fur.

    Stil, it always puts me in a good mood and makes me think of Empire, and glory and class and things. It really is beautifully made and I intend to replace the lining and then save it for occassional use.
     
  9. Clovis Sangrail

    Clovis Sangrail Well-Known Member

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    It also reminds me that one doesn't see enough turn-back cuffs on things these days - though Thom Sweeney were tailoring a suit with turn-backs last time I went in there to pick up an order. I think there is a photo of Ian Fleming wearing one floating around somewhere.
     
  10. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    Op, that's a handsome coat. Enjoy it.
     
  11. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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