Working button holes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by demeis, Feb 15, 2005.

  1. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Yes, I have noticed this in Manhattans better shops as well. I distinctly recall a salesman at Gucci (what? they have smaller sizes when it comes to their driving loafers...they are made by Sergio Rossi, at least that's something, right? Right?) that wore a black suit (please don't start) had 3 buttons undone. It's a nifty look, but not endearing. Jon.
     
  2. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Does it have to do with movement of the wrists whilst playing? (took a stab in the dark)

    Jon.
     
  3. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    The sound of plastic (or horn, heh) clicking against ivory (hopefully) or wood is somewhat annoying.

    koji
     
  4. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    Why must you make me eat my words?
     
  5. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Not at all...I picked up a tuxedo jacket a while back that has working buttonholes. (Thought this was QUITE taboo with regard to formal-wear) Haven't played in it yet, though.

    koji
     
  6. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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    The only reason I have buttons and functional holes sewn on the sleeves is that I can't stand useless details, in this case buttons that can't be undone. I never undo the buttons, though, except when I press the jacket. After pressing I'll button them right away. I'll often tell those who undo buttons, "Looks like you've got a couple buttons which need buttoning." The reaction is usually to do them up.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Not at all. Where did you hear that?
     
  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Manufacturers do it because it makes the product seem more exclusive. Clothing addicts like them out of principle: nothing on a suit should be phony. Pockets should open, and buttons should work. Plus, it's a nice old-world touch.
     
  9. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    (Thracozaag @ Feb. 15 2005,17:39) Thought this was QUITE taboo with regard to formal-wear
    Not at all. Â Where did you hear that?
    I've actually never encountered tuxes with working buttonholes, so I assumed they were some crime against sartorial nature. My mistake. koji
     
  10. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

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    I used to be guilty of this, but I've since cleaned up my act. I was younger and it was fun, but not really defensible. It's probably not quite so much fun now that it's a mass-market ploy (but, hey, they probably need the working buttons on those jackets to keep the sleeves from covering the whole hand).
    The discussion, however, leads me to a corrolary question about button etiquette. It seems to me that the purist approach to a four-button sleeve is to have the lower two working and the upper two cut cut through but not functional. I've seen this most often on Anderson & Sheppard, but I'm quite sure other SR tailors sometimes follow suit. On the other hand, I've never seen a Hong Kong tailor do this (and I can't remember what Flusser does). Is their a functional explanation? Or is this just one of the more subtle details of a certain approach to tailoring (obvious only to those with an obsessive eye for detail)?
     
  11. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    No, the purist approach is all four cut through. And, by the way, when two function and two don't, the upper two are not cut through. The silk twist thread is sewn into the outer layer of cloth to make it look like a real buttonhole.

    Actually, the default A&S way is no sleeve buttonholes at all, but they will do anything you ask for. Most of the rest of Savile Row does do two and two, however.

    All four cut through, always.

    It allows a sleeve to be lengthened from the bottom edge, something that is otherwise impossible.
     
  12. jester

    jester Senior member

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    I look forward to Manton's response to this, but: I once had another Savile Row tailor look at my A&S coat, and say, "They don't make all the buttonholes working because they're lazy and know you're never going to undo them. I will make them all functional because that's the way it's supposed to be done."
     
  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Well, who knows what their motives are, but that explanation at least has the virtue of being both simple and plausible. And I agree that four cut through is the way it is supposed to be done, at least with bespoke tailoring. Cut buttonholes, not corners.
     
  14. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    Probably in their minds, for, as the saying goes, the same reason a dog licks his testicles: Because he can [​IMG]
     
  15. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    The typical dickhead look at the Chicago Giorgio Armani is the impeccably tailored, $1000-overpriced suit with the disheveled shirt, loosened tie. At Prada it's all neat and crisp and tied up...with tennis shoes. Whatareyagunnado?
     

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