1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Words+Bindings - The Fashion Books Thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Urthwhyte, Jan 9, 2013.

  1. g transistor

    g transistor Senior member

    Messages:
    5,375
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    I recently purchased these two and I really like them...

    Rinko Kawauchi - Illuminance

    http://www.amazon.com/Rinko-Kawauch...=1358911172&sr=8-1&keywords=rinko+illuminance

    Wolfgang Tillmans - Neue Welt

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/3836539748/ref=gno_cart_title_2

    Can post images if people would like but not sure if it would suit this thread. Can't really review them since photography books in my opinion are pretty hard to qualify as to why you like them... I mean there's obviously good photography, but when I buy photo books it's mostly emotional responses rather than objective "good composition" etc
     
  2. the shah

    the shah Senior member

    Messages:
    16,544
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2008
    Location:
    lying furtively
    if you like b&w photogrpahy

    [​IMG]

    i can do a post on that here if you like ? it's sitting on the table ...

    also been meaning to check these

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
  3. g transistor

    g transistor Senior member

    Messages:
    5,375
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    It would be cool to post photography/art books too... it's kinda hard to find out what's out there that is good
     
  4. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,888
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    Yeah I'm all for some posts/reviews on that stuff, all of it. I think it's alright as long as we don't derail the thread into a 100% photography discussion. It's not like there are no connections with fashion and streetwear either, I mean Tillmans' work for i-D etc in the 90s had a pretty big influence on the evolution of fashion photography... Fashion is never only about the clothes anyway.

    I don't think reviews need to be objective though. It's way more interesting if you go "here's why this book is great, look at this page, the rest of the book is nice but this picture/text/whatever is all that matters" followed by a bunch of subjective reasons why. I'm talking about reviews in general though, I get what you're saying re: photographs


    Or a new thread
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  5. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    Talking to Myself by Yohji Yamamoto & a whole host of others listed on the link.

    The edition I have is made up of two books. The larger book has lots of lookbook and behind the scenes photos spanning a huge period of Yohji's career. This is then interspersed with Yohji musing on various topics like femininity, the past, philosophy, poetry and more in the spirit of "My Dear Bomb", but pithier. The text in the book is all in Japanese with English and French translations at the end of the book.

    The second book is thinner and is informally known as the 1981 - 2002 book as it contains a full retrospective of Yohji's women's collections spanning that entire period with a small thematic caption and a few photos summarising the collection for that year. This book in particular is a great resource (even though it does not have the full catwalk shots) as it helps provide some context for a lot of the older collections.

    The physical objects themselves are amazing. Great paper (a kind of light card) is used for the pages themselves, each page is matte with a nice dry texture and it showcases the ink very well. Photography, text and paintings show up beautifully and each page is really a beauty to behold. For the first week I owned the book I didn't really read or study anything on the pages, just the act of turning them and looking casually at the images were enough. The thread binding is very solid and it looks like it will survive a lot of use while showing signs of aging well. The cover of the book is some sort of coated paper (I would have said it was coated with a kind of linen, but I could be wrong. I tried taking a closer shot of the cover to give you guys an idea of the texture, but it may not have turned out too well). Both books are provided in a single slipcase made from the same paper as the book covers that is also stitched closed at the top.

    This book is one of the prides of my young fashion library for sure and I would recommend it to anybody interested in Yohji's work. The combination of archival photography and some insights into his mindset combined with great materials and typography make it worth it.

    Pictures (hope not too many) -


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013
    2 people like this.
  6. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

    Messages:
    25,818
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2004
    Got the Vestoj shame issue. Vestoj is basically fashion academics writing a fashion criticism mag.

    Editorial

    In Goya’s sketch For being born somewhere else we see a man wearing a sanbenito and a coroza hat, the garments of shame during the Spanish Inquisition; he is turned away from us, covering his face with his hands. His body language is not so dissimilar from what our impulse would tell us to do, were we in his shoes. Shame is personal, but also universal: we blush, cast our eyes down, lower our heads and seek to hide from prying eyes. Whereas guilt causes us to feel regret about something we have done, in shame our very selves are up for painful judgment. Shame allows us to see ourselves in the eyes of others, and here its link to dress is at its most potent.

    For us this journey began with Adam and Eve, banished from the Garden of Eden by a wrathful God – the beginning of consciousness, shame and also clothing. Our exploration of ‘fashion and shame’ originates with the symbolic birth of mankind; from it we have attempted to delve into this multifaceted and complex subject matter in as many different ways as we have found interpretations of the theme. In all ages clothes have been used as a marker of shame. In seventeenth century England and Scotland the branks, an iron muzzle with a bridle, often spiked and pressing down on the wearer’s tongue, was a common device used for punishment and public humiliation. We can read about the dunce cap in the 1840 novel The Old Curiosity Shop by Charles Dickens and a decade later Nathaniel Hawthorne gives a moving account of Hester Prynne in The Scarlet Letter, a woman in seventeenth century Puritan Boston, forced to wear the symbol of her crime stitched on her chest. We have seen the yellow Star of David and the pink triangle come and go as well as the striped and arrowed prison uniform, and not long ago we got used to spotting the orange Abu Ghraib jumpsuit on the backs of those detained at the Baghdad Correctional Facility. These are just a few examples we have come across; the list of garments associated with our shame is long and diverse.

    ***

    Our topic is, however, not restricted to clothing and accessories created to specifically shame their wearer. The clothes we wear in our everyday life are also full of shaming potential; garments meant to protect and provide confidence often fall short and leave us feeling vulnerable and exposed. Imagine, for example, the embarrassment of being turned away at a fashion show in all your finery or of turning up at an important event and finding that someone else is wearing the same dress as you. Or go back to that time when you left the bathroom at your lover’s house, it was the first dinner with the parents, and your flies were undone. Or recall the moment that you, surrounded by friends, got out of the water only to discover that your new bathing suit had become completely transparent. Or maybe you remember when your favourite white trousers decided to turn on you and proclaim to the world that today you got your period. Fashion and clothing has this effect on us. It renders us self-conscious of our fashionable selves, or lack thereof, and the feeling of shame can surface all too easily when we see ourselves through the gaze of others. Fashion prompts us to judge ourselves and those around us. It forces us to face up to the shame of not belonging, the shame imposed on others for not dressing the part, the shame of not being able to participate in fashion because of a body type deemed ‘wrong’ or a wallet deemed too meagre.

    ***

    The system and industry born to cater to our desires is as paradoxical as it is complex and few are the areas so often shamed by outsiders. Child labour, overproduction and consumption, narrow ideals of beauty and environmental damage are just a few of the sore points that concern those of us who love fashion. Yes, fashion is indeed a system that is easily condemned. Superficial, fickle, frivolous and indulgent – there are few invectives that have yet to be hurled at fashion. Conscientious fashion lovers have no doubt asked themselves many times over whether fashion as we know it could survive without the material abundance we have become accustomed to or the ideals we have created that at all times egg us on in our quest to always be better, brighter versions of ourselves. Fashion seems to revel in being the rebel – it is a zone where even the most level-headed among us allow ourselves to be bad, irrational and slightly wayward. Perhaps we need this area as a zone to break out of an otherwise strictly conditioned existence. Through fashion we can be guilty of inconsistencies and misdemeanours and permit our better selves a momentary rest. Fashion is an area where we are allowed to hang our heads in collective shame, where it often feels good to be bad. When Adam and Eve fell from grace they sewed their fig leaves before they did anything else – the shame of their nakedness had to be removed. As the children of Adam and Eve, we too have a lot to hide. Our lumps and bumps, both moral and physical, are our constant cause of shame, but, as Jean-Paul Sartre suggests in the quote on this issue’s bookmark, it is in this shame that we can unveil the most intimate aspects of our beings.


    LITTLE VID OF SOMEONE FLIPPING THE MAG (APPARENTLY CAN'T EMBED)


    [VIDEO]http://www.vestoj.com/video/vestoj3.webm[/VIDEO]
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  7. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

    Messages:
    25,818
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2004
    MANY OF THEM ISSUE II

    [​IMG]


    A LIMITED EDITION OF 1000 COPIES

    COSMIC WONDER
    COMME DES GARÇONS
    ALAÏA
    HANNELORE KNUTS
    CHANEL
    DRIES VAN NOTEN
    YOHJI YAMAMOTO
    Y-3
    LIMI FEU
    ISSEY MIYAKE
    RICK OWENS
    THEYSKENS’ THEORY
    PELICAN AVENUE
    ADAM KIMMEL
    MISSONI
    SWASH
    UNDERCOVER
    DIOR HOMME
    LUTZ
    MAURIZIO AMADEI
    DANIELA GREGIS
    PAUL HARNDEN
    JEAN COLONNA
    GEOFFREY B. SMALL
    EATABLE OF MANY ORDERS
    BERNHARD WILLHELM
    ROSA MARIA
    MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
    BLESS
    CHRISTIAN ASTUGUEVIEILLE
    ELENA OCHOA FOSTER
    JAMIE STEWART
    OWEN PALLETT
    RAYA MARTIN
    LUCRECIA MARTEL
    ARIANE MICHEL
    NICOLAS PROVOST
    KIM KI-DUK
    ISAKI LACUESTA
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  8. the shah

    the shah Senior member

    Messages:
    16,544
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2008
    Location:
    lying furtively
    may be a long shot, nobody has Ideas from Massimo Osti ?

    am gonna try to get a few more done tomorrow i think
     
  9. g transistor

    g transistor Senior member

    Messages:
    5,375
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2013
    2 people like this.
  10. g transistor

    g transistor Senior member

    Messages:
    5,375
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Guy from the cosmic wonder ones reminds me of an azn tween
     
  11. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,888
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    Thanks man. So it's just a lot of editorials/shoots for each label or is there also more substantial content ?


    This is really great, Ivwri. Love the apparent binding.





    I'm getting that one for sure, probably next week or so.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. g transistor

    g transistor Senior member

    Messages:
    5,375
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Sip: that's pretty much what it is. There are some pretty cool interviews that are a little long, but most of them aren't the big big names like Dries etc. It's kinda cool, there are some poems, writings, photo essay type things, but overall not much substance for each designer. There is a cool Bless interview that I can transcribe or something since I don't think it's online... what thread would that go in?

    I tried to do a top down view for it instead of the lame dof zoomed in crap but I couldn't get the book to stay put. I had to hold the pages down and that was getting difficult to get a good top-down angle, so sorry for the lack of overall view
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2013
  13. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,888
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    Bless interview would go HERE most definitely, or you can xpost it

    Yeah, overall view pics + scans would be ideal but it a pain in the ass with all weird formats those mags and books have, also shitty scanner
     
  14. the shah

    the shah Senior member

    Messages:
    16,544
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2008
    Location:
    lying furtively
    i knew it would be you getting that massimo book
     
  15. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    Thanks for making me aware of that book shah. Think I will pick up a copy as well. My interest in Throup put me on to Massimo Osti and I liked the few Stone Island things I owned when I was in university (dunno whether they were based on his designs by then though...).

    Sipang are you picking up the LE one? :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2013
  16. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,888
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    Ha I doubt it, 300 is a bit too much for me right now. I think I will hold back for the hardcover edition though.


    There's also a book on Stone Island published last year for the 30th anniversary of the label. The book presents a collection of 300 of the most iconic coats and jackets produced by SI between 1982 and 2012 (from an archive of over 20,000 pieces iirc)


    [​IMG]



    Pretty massive too

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. slstr

    slstr Senior member

    Messages:
    1,169
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2012
    In terms of photography books, I have a couple great ones I could post up here soon if anyone's interested/if it's allowed in this thread.

    I'll post up a few shots from Rinko Kawauchi's Illuminance, it really is a great book. Should also have Tillmans' Abstract Photos arriving in the mail from amazon soon, I had a look at it in a store and it was incredible.

    Shah do you happen to know the photographer of this image?
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2013
  18. g transistor

    g transistor Senior member

    Messages:
    5,375
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Illuminance is so good. I flip through it fairly often... it has a sort of childlike wonder kind of feel for me. I get all nostalgic and sad about how I don't have any real feeling of that sort anymore. Really nice stuff.

    Sip what do you recommend? Can't ask and not give
     
  19. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,888
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    

    Can't remember the name but it's from an editorial in Dutch magazine, late 90s. Pretty sure I have it saved somewhere, I'll post it in the edito thread if I find it.
     
  20. the shah

    the shah Senior member

    Messages:
    16,544
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2008
    Location:
    lying furtively

    yes please do would be nice to see


    if am not mistaken, enrique badulescu, dutch magazine #12
    it was audrey marnay in rtw fw97 yohji and cdg
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2013
    1 person likes this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by