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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Rollin Tumble, Feb 1, 2010.

  1. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    CXL and Predator leather are almost identical. The difference is Predator is tumbled after tanning. Same advice I've given for CXL care and maintenance applies to Predator.
     
  2. Grytter

    Grytter Well-Known Member

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    I am really torned between the rust or brown, which one should i get?!
     
  3. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    Flip a coin! LOL!
     
  4. digga

    digga Senior member

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    brown for sure, of course i don't have the rust, so i guess i'm a little biased. i'm definitely looking to get some more brown cxl in my life tho.
     
  5. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    I chose rust and I'm glad I did.


    I chose brown with my Indy, and Black Cherry and Black with my Redwing Beckmans.



    Variety is the spice of life.
     
  6. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    That's easy. Rust.
    [​IMG]
     
  7. brokeassp

    brokeassp Senior member

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  8. djwoblely

    djwoblely Senior member

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    Anyone got pix of the browns and rusts next to each other?
     
  9. jrs19

    jrs19 Active Member

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    Crane's, your post about sno-sealing the 1,000 mile boots is awesome. After reading y'all write so fondly of your 1,000 boots i had to get a pair. Per your advice, as soon as they arrived, i applied 3 coats of Obenauf's HDLP (Heavy Duty Leather Protector -- a beeswax water repellent and conditioner). After each coat, I dried the boots with a hairdryer, then buffed them an hour later. They're really new, have seen perhaps 30 seconds worth of rain. The other day, i noticed that the glue between the heel and the sole is separating, on both boots! The separation goes from side to side across the entire face of the heel. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem? At this point, the possible problems are:
    1) Error at Wolverine and the heels/soles weren't attached properly
    2) Obenauf's somehow destroyed the glue?
    3) The hairdryer caused the glue to weaken causing the separation
    4) Combination of 2 & 3.

    My boots are being replaced, so i'm not SOL, but I'm putting this out there for 2 reasons. 1) though i don't know the cause of the separation, user beware, I'd hate for others to screw up their boots. 2) wondering if anyone else has had this problem, and if they've figured out what caused the problem?

    love to hear any responses.

    also, my replacement boots have not yet arrived, but now i'm gun-shy about how i pre-treat them.



    [​IMG]
     
  10. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    What a shame that that was your first experience with the 1Ks! And after three coats of LP. I know how much work that is.

    My guess is that it was a factory defect that was overlooked. I've had no such issues from my 1Ks and there have been several LP coating sessions over the past year.

    These boots should take LP with no problem, so don't be "gun shy" about it. But in all honesty, two coats is plenty for boots of this quality.
     
  11. MarioImpemba

    MarioImpemba Senior member

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    That heel separation happens to everyone.

    I just looked down at my 721's I'm wearing today, and same deal - so not isolated to just 1K's, and AE made the 721's.
     
  12. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    I really don't think it's an issue. I think a pair of mine did the same thing but that was a long time ago. I have done a lot of things to these boots and so far I haven't ripped a heel off them while kicking rocks out of the dirt. Just a reminder to those who do the same thing, if the rock doesn't come out on the first kick don't punt the bastard. I did that and it's taken a year and a half for the plantar fascia injury to heal. The boots survived but I didn't. Another thing, watch the heat guys. 130 degrees is more than enough to get the job done when snosealing them.
     
  13. tsekh

    tsekh Senior member

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    Heavy Duty LP didn't destroy the glue. It is more likely to be melted by the heat of the hairdryer, but that is quite unlikely as well.

    This heel "separation" was reported by many users here, but unless it is falling off, it's not a big deal. The heel and the sole are two separate piece of leather, and the flex. When you walk, they flex and change shape. Unless the glue covered both surface 100%, some gaps like this would appear. I really wouldn't worry about that unless it worsen significantly.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2012
  14. jrs19

    jrs19 Active Member

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    thanks for all of your replies. really appreciate the feedback.

    these boots are so darn pretty.
     
  15. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    No problem. Give 'em a few years if you really want to see pretty.
     
  16. wigglr

    wigglr Senior member

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  17. jrs19

    jrs19 Active Member

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    Crane's,

    U are clearly the expert, so I have question:

    1. I assume u chose Filson conditioner and snoseal over HDLP?
     
  18. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    Yes but that's because it's a matter of convenience. We stock Filson boot oil and my leather guy has Sno seal. I've used Obenauf in the past and it works great.
     
  19. djwoblely

    djwoblely Senior member

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    Crane,

    This may be off topic but could you point me to information on treating, conditioning, waterproofing leather jackets.
     
  20. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    This can get tricky. I only own full grain leather jackets/coats made of cow, horse or elk hide so what I do to them is the same thing I do to my boots. For anything else I would stick with lexol cleaner and conditioner and even then be careful. The biggest problem in all of this is sometimes you just don't know what kind of leather you're dealing with or how it's been finished.
     

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