• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review

Dayman

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
147
Reaction score
2
So FWIW I never said the guys name openly on the forum, just the caution about ebay Wolverine's...

This is the same picture I sent to Wolverine customer service, they have yet to say they agree it's a defect but authorized a return. I think it's clear how crooked it is, the lacing is off by that much in the front as well, but it's hard to get a good picture of that without it actually being laced up on my foot.

Anyhow...I'm not trying to trash Wolverine, I really like the boots, they fit me better than anything else I own.




Thank you for posting the pic. That is certainly poor quality and hopefully should be taken care of by Wolverine. Didn't mean to be rude in early earlier posts, but you know how the internet is, sometimes people lie or make up stories. Pictures tell the truth.
 
Last edited:

Trapp

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
1,663
Reaction score
87
I've had a brown pair of the original 1000 boots for over a year and love them. I don't do anything special in terms of care; I initially put on a good vibram halfsole and otherwise just give them an occasional horsehair brushing, esp. around the welt. So nice - my favorite boots for almost any occasion.

Recently, I acquired a pair in rust. I took them out for a good 5-6 mile hike on flat terrain through some forest and fields. Throughout the morning the boots became wet with dew and later, on dryer trails, the boots got dusty. I've done this type of thing countless times with other boots. Well, the rust pair did not respond well at all to this use. When I returned to my house and removed the boots, I noticed the leather at the back of each boot had shed most of it 's finish. In a few areas where the hems of my jeans were touching the finish just wore away in dime-sized circles -- almost as if the leather had been burned. I treed the boots and allowed them to dry, hoping these areas would recover, but no dice. The leather at the heels now looks dead, like gray meat.

I've worn lots of good boots and I'm well-acquainted with the horween chromexel leather (been wearing early generation Roy boots and Leather Soul's first chrmxl Alden NST boot for the past 2 years) so I'm pretty familiar with how this leather wears. (Also, as I say, I couldn't be happier with my first pair of Wolves.) But I'm very unhappy with the leather on these new rust boots. The boots look bad and I don't know what to think.

I guess I'm seeking opinions on what my next move should be. I don't know if you can see from the pics, but the grey areas are not indigo stains laying on top of the leather (which happens to my other boots and is fine) but the result of the finish being pulled away. I considered trying some polish followed by mink oil but don't want to make it worse.


100_1574.jpg


100_1580.jpg


100_1582.jpg


100_1578.jpg


100_1579.jpg


100_1575.jpg
 

Crane's

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
6,190
Reaction score
518
The finish is abraded and those grey stains are dirt stains. You got the boots and your pants wet and then hit dusty trails. That wet dust is a nasty black abrasive compound that stains leather especially when it's dry. (Dry meaning in need of conditioning) This is why I always recommend conditioning these boots or any other before you go in the field. With that said you need to get a good leather cleaner like lexol and clean them like a mad dog. After that apply a liberal dose of boot oil and if you want a waterproofer.

While you're at it do the same to your other pair before you end up with another disaster or worse you destroy the uppers from dry rot.
 
Last edited:

Dayman

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
147
Reaction score
2
The only thing i can think of to get color back would be to get some shoe creme. I use Meltonian boot and shoe creme and It's available at most shoe or shoe repair shops. If i get a scratch or simular that takes color out, I just rub some on the area and seems to work well for me. There are a ton of different colors to try and match. I don't have a pair in rust, but the color loss is still surprising considering. I would also say you should get yourself a leather cleaner and conditioning product, you might have luck getting some gunk out.
 
Last edited:

Dayman

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
147
Reaction score
2
The finish is abraded and those grey stains are dirt stains. You got the boots and your pants wet and then hit dusty trails. That wet dust is a nasty black abrasive compound that stains leather especially when it's dry. (Dry meaning in need of conditioning) This is why I always recommend conditioning these boots or any other before you go in the field. With that said you need to get a good leather cleaner like lexol and clean them like a mad dog. After that apply a liberal dose of boot oil and if you want a waterproofer.
While you're at it do the same to your other pair before you end up with another disaster or worse you destroy the uppers from dry rot.
Yes, i forgot to mention but you should try and keep CXL conditioned often, not constant, but especially before and or after hikes like this if it hasn't been treated in a while. It's tuff but not quite cordovan tuff. Listen to Crane's it's all he does with these boots.
 

Trapp

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
1,663
Reaction score
87
Thanks, I will take these recommendations.

I did not realize water + dust was such a killer but Crane's description is indeed what happened.

After I clean them with the lexol, I may try to put some color back using meltonian cream (I have some brick on hand that looks close enough). Should I use the cream before or after the boot oil?
 
Last edited:

Crane's

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
6,190
Reaction score
518

Thanks, I will take these recommendations.
I did not realize water + dust was such a killer but Crane's description is indeed what happened.
After I clean them with the lexol, I may try to put some color back using meltonian cream (I have some brick on hand that looks close enough). Should I use the cream before or after the boot oil?


Save the cream as a last resort. You'll find that the conditioner and some buffing with a rag and brush will in most cases take care of it. So far I haven't had to use any color to cover any nicks or abrasions on any of my 1Ks.
 

Trapp

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
1,663
Reaction score
87
Okay, I'll hold off on the color.

As long my boots are becoming a cautionary tale, I'll post pics after I clean them up - however they turn out.

I can get Saphir Renovateur locally but it's expensive, so I'll probably be waiting for an online order of Filson boot oil before doing anything else.
 
Last edited:

Crane's

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
6,190
Reaction score
518
Filson boot oil is good stuff. Other products that I've used or would recommend are Redwing/Wolverine boot oil, Montana Pitch Blend products and Obenauf products.
 

Trapp

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
1,663
Reaction score
87
I have plenty of Obenauf's leather oil (their standard, not their LP).

I'd been reluctant to use Obenauf's on this leather because of the beeswax component, but I might give that a try rather than waiting for Filson to ship.
 

Dayman

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
147
Reaction score
2
I have plenty of Obenauf's leather oil (their standard, not their LP).
I'd been reluctant to use Obenauf's on this leather because of the beeswax component, but I might give that a try rather than waiting for Filson to ship.

Yeah, the color should be last if you possible cant get the color back, most times you can. I loved using Obenauf's LP and oil on mine but I have the brown 1k and Stockton, both are dark already. So, it might turn your rust 1k's a couple shades darker. It tends to lighten up a bit after a few days, but it still might be a little darker. I have seen people complain that the oil darkens a bit more than the LP, but they might be putting a whole lot on.
 

Crane's

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
6,190
Reaction score
518

I have plenty of Obenauf's leather oil (their standard, not their LP).
I'd been reluctant to use Obenauf's on this leather because of the beeswax component, but I might give that a try rather than waiting for Filson to ship.


The beeswax will definetly darken them a bit but that's also the main waterproofing component. Don't try or expect the leather to stay the same color. All good full grain leather darkens over time. Many people think they can stop this process but it's not going to happen if you use it.
 

Reginald Bartholomew

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Messages
502
Reaction score
521
Sigh. Wish I had read this thread before buying a pair of browns off Ebay. I will say the Rust 1Ks I picked up last year are the second most comfortable pair of footwear I own, and the way the colour is developing is awesome.
 

trig

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
1,262
Reaction score
304

Sigh. Wish I had read this thread before buying a pair of browns off Ebay. I will say the Rust 1Ks I picked up last year are the second most comfortable pair of footwear I own, and the way the colour is developing is awesome.


only one person has had an issue with an ebay purchase. any issues with yours?
 

Crane's

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
6,190
Reaction score
518
Remember those 721LTDs I got over a year ago? They have been worn about 150 times now with no regard for the what or where's. I cleaned and oiled them a couple of days ago after a particularly nasty, muddy, sandy and wet outing. They'll shine right up after the oil completely dries but oh how the patina is developing on these..... deep black cherry color with deep red highlights.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.5%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 60 38.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 11.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.4%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 28 18.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,175
Messages
10,579,197
Members
223,889
Latest member
CBDJointPlusGumy
Top