Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Rollin Tumble, Feb 1, 2010.

  1. Dayman

    Dayman Senior member

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    Thank you for posting the pic. That is certainly poor quality and hopefully should be taken care of by Wolverine. Didn't mean to be rude in early earlier posts, but you know how the internet is, sometimes people lie or make up stories. Pictures tell the truth.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012


  2. Trapp

    Trapp Senior member

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    I've had a brown pair of the original 1000 boots for over a year and love them. I don't do anything special in terms of care; I initially put on a good vibram halfsole and otherwise just give them an occasional horsehair brushing, esp. around the welt. So nice - my favorite boots for almost any occasion.

    Recently, I acquired a pair in rust. I took them out for a good 5-6 mile hike on flat terrain through some forest and fields. Throughout the morning the boots became wet with dew and later, on dryer trails, the boots got dusty. I've done this type of thing countless times with other boots. Well, the rust pair did not respond well at all to this use. When I returned to my house and removed the boots, I noticed the leather at the back of each boot had shed most of it 's finish. In a few areas where the hems of my jeans were touching the finish just wore away in dime-sized circles -- almost as if the leather had been burned. I treed the boots and allowed them to dry, hoping these areas would recover, but no dice. The leather at the heels now looks dead, like gray meat.

    I've worn lots of good boots and I'm well-acquainted with the horween chromexel leather (been wearing early generation Roy boots and Leather Soul's first chrmxl Alden NST boot for the past 2 years) so I'm pretty familiar with how this leather wears. (Also, as I say, I couldn't be happier with my first pair of Wolves.) But I'm very unhappy with the leather on these new rust boots. The boots look bad and I don't know what to think.

    I guess I'm seeking opinions on what my next move should be. I don't know if you can see from the pics, but the grey areas are not indigo stains laying on top of the leather (which happens to my other boots and is fine) but the result of the finish being pulled away. I considered trying some polish followed by mink oil but don't want to make it worse.


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  3. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    The finish is abraded and those grey stains are dirt stains. You got the boots and your pants wet and then hit dusty trails. That wet dust is a nasty black abrasive compound that stains leather especially when it's dry. (Dry meaning in need of conditioning) This is why I always recommend conditioning these boots or any other before you go in the field. With that said you need to get a good leather cleaner like lexol and clean them like a mad dog. After that apply a liberal dose of boot oil and if you want a waterproofer.

    While you're at it do the same to your other pair before you end up with another disaster or worse you destroy the uppers from dry rot.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012


  4. Dayman

    Dayman Senior member

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    The only thing i can think of to get color back would be to get some shoe creme. I use Meltonian boot and shoe creme and It's available at most shoe or shoe repair shops. If i get a scratch or simular that takes color out, I just rub some on the area and seems to work well for me. There are a ton of different colors to try and match. I don't have a pair in rust, but the color loss is still surprising considering. I would also say you should get yourself a leather cleaner and conditioning product, you might have luck getting some gunk out.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012


  5. Dayman

    Dayman Senior member

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    Yes, i forgot to mention but you should try and keep CXL conditioned often, not constant, but especially before and or after hikes like this if it hasn't been treated in a while. It's tuff but not quite cordovan tuff. Listen to Crane's it's all he does with these boots.
     


  6. Trapp

    Trapp Senior member

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    Thanks, I will take these recommendations.

    I did not realize water + dust was such a killer but Crane's description is indeed what happened.

    After I clean them with the lexol, I may try to put some color back using meltonian cream (I have some brick on hand that looks close enough). Should I use the cream before or after the boot oil?
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012


  7. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    Save the cream as a last resort. You'll find that the conditioner and some buffing with a rag and brush will in most cases take care of it. So far I haven't had to use any color to cover any nicks or abrasions on any of my 1Ks.
     


  8. Trapp

    Trapp Senior member

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    Okay, I'll hold off on the color.

    As long my boots are becoming a cautionary tale, I'll post pics after I clean them up - however they turn out.

    I can get Saphir Renovateur locally but it's expensive, so I'll probably be waiting for an online order of Filson boot oil before doing anything else.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012


  9. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    Filson boot oil is good stuff. Other products that I've used or would recommend are Redwing/Wolverine boot oil, Montana Pitch Blend products and Obenauf products.
     


  10. Trapp

    Trapp Senior member

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    I have plenty of Obenauf's leather oil (their standard, not their LP).

    I'd been reluctant to use Obenauf's on this leather because of the beeswax component, but I might give that a try rather than waiting for Filson to ship.
     


  11. Dayman

    Dayman Senior member

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    Yeah, the color should be last if you possible cant get the color back, most times you can. I loved using Obenauf's LP and oil on mine but I have the brown 1k and Stockton, both are dark already. So, it might turn your rust 1k's a couple shades darker. It tends to lighten up a bit after a few days, but it still might be a little darker. I have seen people complain that the oil darkens a bit more than the LP, but they might be putting a whole lot on.
     


  12. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    The beeswax will definetly darken them a bit but that's also the main waterproofing component. Don't try or expect the leather to stay the same color. All good full grain leather darkens over time. Many people think they can stop this process but it's not going to happen if you use it.
     


  13. Reginald Bartholomew

    Reginald Bartholomew Senior member

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    Sigh. Wish I had read this thread before buying a pair of browns off Ebay. I will say the Rust 1Ks I picked up last year are the second most comfortable pair of footwear I own, and the way the colour is developing is awesome.
     


  14. trig

    trig Senior member

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    only one person has had an issue with an ebay purchase. any issues with yours?
     


  15. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    Remember those 721LTDs I got over a year ago? They have been worn about 150 times now with no regard for the what or where's. I cleaned and oiled them a couple of days ago after a particularly nasty, muddy, sandy and wet outing. They'll shine right up after the oil completely dries but oh how the patina is developing on these..... deep black cherry color with deep red highlights. [​IMG]
     


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