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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review

Crane's

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Come to find out that my buddy did Oil them when he first bought them with some Obes. They weren't as stiff as the picture made them out to be. However, they were very dusty and grimy. The pictures above are after I brushed them and cleaned them with some saddle soap. I could already tell a difference and see some life spark into them! Have a huge dent in the toe box but I am not too worried about it..gives it a little bit of character! I am going to apply a little coat of Obe's Leather Oil here in a bit. This is after I applied the Leather Oil. I took a hair dryer to them to help the leather soak up those oils and will let them sit over night as well. Depending on what they look and feel like tomorrow I might do another coat of oil or go straight ahead with some LP.
Follow my advice to the letter. On really dry leather getting it back into a useable condition can take a month. Rushing the process is a really bad thing to do. #8 color is oxblood or cordovan. You do realize that the boots in my waterproofing tutorial are the #8 colored shell cordovan 721LTD limited edition boots?
 

nevereast

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It seems like that chromexcel tag ends up in boxes that it shouldn't be in. With that said both types are chrome tanned with a heavy vegetable retannage. Predator has an additional step of being tumbled. In any case both leathers are finished off with vegetable tanning and are a smooth full grain leather. So yes LP or Sno-Seal is what's used to waterproof them. Chromexcel, predator, dublin, bridle, and shell are all examples of full grain leather that's either vegetable tanned or finished by a vegetable retannage. You condition and waterproof all of them the same way.


My only concern is the texture of the leather. It feels vaguely similar a suede and worry it would have the same disastrous effect.

Horsehair brush does nothing to these as far as I can tell
 
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Crane's

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My only concern is the texture of the leather. It feels vaguely similar a suede and worry it would have the same disastrous effect.

Horsehair brush does nothing to these as far as I can tell


That texture is from the tumbling. It's still a full grain smooth leather that is heavily waxed as part of the tanning process. That info is straight off of Horween's site. Suede is an entirely different animal with an entirely different care regiment. As long as you don't try to use half a can of waterproofer on them they'll be fine. As I pointed out in my tutorial the secret is getting the leather warm enough that the proofer is pulled into the leather and not left sitting on the surface of the leather.
 

AmericanLion

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They're brown. Since then I did a writeup on how to clean them. Instead of oiling them as usual I decided to wax them up to show how well they can look after 7 or 8 months worth of snow mud and water. I used a little #8 cream wax. Now they're a pair of rust or cordovan 1Ks. LOL.

Your brown W1Ks was what I was referencing to getting the same results whenever you waxed them. Sorry, I should have quoted in the other post. I was wondering what you did to get your results here.




These are my browns after being oiled and sitting over night. I am going to follow your advice and give them another coat of oil before I waterproof them. I LOVE MESSING WITH THESE BOOTS LOL
 

space4lyfe

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Hey Crane, i just bought a pair of Wolverine 1ks in black and had a question. I looked through some of this thread but couldn't really find an answer. I am going to be using Obenauff's to waterproof them using ur method. But what do i use for conditioner? Is venetian shoe cream good? For reference i will be wearing the boots in Canadian winter(Toronto). So through some snow/rain. Thanks for the help :D
 

Crane's

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Hey Crane, i just bought a pair of Wolverine 1ks in black and had a question. I looked through some of this thread but couldn't really find an answer. I am going to be using Obenauff's to waterproof them using ur method. But what do i use for conditioner? Is venetian shoe cream good? For reference i will be wearing the boots in Canadian winter(Toronto). So through some snow/rain. Thanks for the help :D


Obenauf's oil, Filson boot oil or Chamberlains LM #3 are better choices for conditioning in between LP or Sno-Seal treatments.
 

malaysian

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Obenauf's oil, Filson boot oil or Chamberlains LM #3 are better choices for conditioning in between LP or Sno-Seal treatments.
Will those products give a "shine" to the boots after being conditioned with the LPs? Cos currently I've used the LPs, but it leaves my boots with more of a matte finish. Looking for something with gives off a bit of a shine.
 

Brooks

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Hey Crane, i just bought a pair of Wolverine 1ks in black and had a question. I looked through some of this thread but couldn't really find an answer. I am going to be using Obenauff's to waterproof them using ur method. But what do i use for conditioner? Is venetian shoe cream good? For reference i will be wearing the boots in Canadian winter(Toronto). So through some snow/rain. Thanks for the help :D
Post some pictures. Not many people seem to but them in black.
 

MarioImpemba

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Will those products give a "shine" to the boots after being conditioned with the LPs? Cos currently I've used the LPs, but it leaves my boots with more of a matte finish. Looking for something with gives off a bit of a shine.

I got you; I'm working on a tut on how to shine up the 1K's. Should have been done this weekend but life got in the way. Though, if you've LPed them, you may be screwed since that stuff gets pretty dang oily. I LPed my leather backpack, and it has a nice sheen after some diligent brushing.
 
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Nithy

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My 1000 Miles just arrived and I'm looking forward to breaking them in. They're a fair amount stiffer than my 2 year old J.Crew Chippewas.

 

shizlefonizle

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I have a pair of the tan 1ks and its a little bit too orange for everyday wear. Is there anything I can apply to get to them to safely darken it up a little?
 

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