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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Rollin Tumble, Feb 1, 2010.

  1. grundletaint

    grundletaint Senior member

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    What kind of insoles are y'all using in these? I picked up some dr scholl's "work boot" but I'm not really a fan for reasons I can't quite put into words.
     
  2. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    A Wolverine gel insole.
     
  3. grundletaint

    grundletaint Senior member

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    Oh....well that would make sense! Thanks. Which style works in the Addison?
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2014
  4. Psalmanazar

    Psalmanazar Member

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    Viberg is now priced above Crockett and Jones. How is their quality control? Alden has atrocious quality control and uses worse leather than C&J.
     
  5. marmot8

    marmot8 Well-Known Member

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    I applied a coat of oil and waited a few days and was about to apply LP when I noticed this. After the first treatment of oil I did notice a couple spots; nothing that would bother me, but wondering if I should apply another round of oil first or move onto the LP. Moving forward, what is the protocal of using oil vs LP?
     
  6. malaysian

    malaysian Active Member

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    [​IMG]

    Copped a pair of Montgomerys in black. Feels more comfortable than the original W1K. In terms of the leather, according to a Wolverine representative it's Horween leather, but I compared the leather with the original W1K, this feels more shiny and PVC-ish.
    Anyway, what should I use for this boots? Is the Heavy Duty LP sufficient?
     
  7. katabatic

    katabatic Senior member

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    I measure a 12E on the Brannock device, and I wear a 12D in Wolverine 1K (I have two pairs). I typically wear a moderately heavy sock (Icebreaker city or hiking socks), and I add an insole for arch support and a bit of cushioning. I can't imagine wearing dress socks with these boots.

    My toes don't come anywhere near the hitting the front of the boot - maybe an inch of clearance? Being able to wiggle my toes without my pinky toe being smashed is a beautiful thing. I regularly walk 5-10 miles on pavement, and occasionally trails, in these boots.
     
  8. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    Pro-method for getting some cheap W1K's right now through Nordstrom.

    Basically, shoerepertoire.com is having a 40% off sale, but they have terrible inventory control and often awful customer support. But you can price match deals through Nordstrom. Most of the shoerepertoire.com stock is out, but the shoe I actually want, the Morley, is still in stock with plenty of sizes. So I got it for $260 with tax and shipping, which is $140 off what I could get from most out-of-state-free-shipping places, and still $80-100 cheaper than a certain place I could call up for a deal but might not have them in stock right now. Of course, lets see what quality of shoe I get... but if it sucks, or the fit sucks, they have a great return policy, and since there's a Nordstrom within driving distance I can do an exchange there.

    Anyway, looking forward to these, I've been on the fence for this shoe for a while, and it was basically a waiting game to see if it popped up on a DOTD or somewhere else first (almost was on Haberdash for $200, but they had the 9 and the 10.5 only in stock, and were final sale...) I basically feel it's a more economical choice than the Vibergs ($700!!!!) and likely a better fit (and cheaper) than OSB. Hopefully I get a pair that doesn't have an overly burnished toe, since that's a bit silly looking, though I'm sure I'll beat the shit out of the toe soon enough anyway.

    Edit: And haberdash has these for $200... just called Nordstrom up and they modified it to that price. So $220 from them (haberdash doesn't actually have them in my size, so it is slightly more expensive, but great deal).
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2014
  9. backtoreality15

    backtoreality15 Member

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    -So how often do you oil like this?
    -Also, lets say I get it very dirty and want to clean off before oiling, how do you recommend cleaning?
    -Lastly, why do you use Filson Oil (http://www.filson.com/products/boot-oil.55101.html) over the Wolverine recommended neatsfoot oil?

    Context: I live in California with not much rain, and plan to wear these at least every other day.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2014
  10. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    I have a pair of Monties and treat them the same way as my other 3 pairs of USA boots. The leather is not CXL that's for sure.



    The Morley is a good looking boot. Our rep wears them. I'm seriously considering getting a pair of the desert boots but I'm waiting to see if a nice wingtip shoe is in the Spring lineup.



    I oil my boots whenever they feel dry or the leather starts getting stiff. That's how it's done and the frequency depends on you and what you do. If you treated your boots with the same frequency as me you would wreck them. Again it's based on your specific use and not what anyone else does. Now I do wade in water with these boots so once they are dry they get a thorough going over every single time I do that. Lexol cleaner or saddle soap is what I use for cleaning. Recently a fellow a bit up used a product on their tan boots and it did a great job cleaning them up. You might consider it as well. Wolverine does not recommend neatsfoot oil by the way. The reason why i use Filson boot oil is because it was specifically designed to treat full grain vegetable tanned leather. I also have an endless supply of it. If I didn't I would be using Obenauf's products exclusively.



    Ignore it. It goes away after a few required treatments. Don't ever keep dumping oil on them to try to even out any initial spotting. Go ahead and LP them. Oil is your primary conditioner.. LP or snoseal is used to proof them and you might do that once a year. I tend to proof my boots twice a year. Once in late Fall and then again just before the Spring Missouri muck season begins.
     
    2 people like this.
  11. anrobit

    anrobit Senior member

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    What do you mean with required treatments? Why are these required?


    Horween does recommend neatsfoot oil and mentions venetian shoe cream for conditioning chromexcel. Why don't you use them?

    Sorry, I'm just curious as to your recommendations
     
  12. themonster

    themonster Well-Known Member

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  13. anrobit

    anrobit Senior member

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    I'm being a little facetious, I know all about what Crane's did to those poor shell boots.

    I don't think people realize that the Wolverine 1000 mile line is a fashion line, not a workboot line. I would never LP any of my fashion boots.
     
  14. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    :lurk:

    Oh good, my favorite show is about to start.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2014
    2 people like this.
  15. Froosh

    Froosh Senior member

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    Great deal! Comes out to $219.95 shipped for the original 1ks. Probably will never see a price like this again. Unfortunately, most sizes out of stock in Cordovan 8 so I can't get a Nordstrom price match. :facepalm:
     
  16. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    I'll answer your questions with a question. What do you think is going to happen to the leather when the oils and waxes that are in it oxidiize and dry out?

    Why would I use a product that contains turpentine as a leather conditioner? Why would I use neatsfoot oil when that product has a tendency to rot when exposed to perspiration or water allowing bacteria and fungi to grow? I already explained why I use Filson boot oil. It was specifically made to condition full grain vegetable tanned leather.



    You are becoming quite the troll while showing your complete lack of knowledge on leather and it's care in general. Aren't you the same clown that said they had a pair of 1K boots that got completely destroyed by street salt in Chicago? Why is it that my boots are exposed to that on a regular basis and even nastier environmental hazards and I don't have that problem? Keep right on going with your would you trust this guy who does this shit. The fact of the matter is I have clearly demonstrated just how much these boots can take and with a little cleanup they look just fine.



    They are marketed that way and that is all. The boots are a heritage line. Those standard 1000 mile boots were introduced in 1914 as a premium workboot made out of shell cordovan. We actually sold the original 1914 boot and you can bet the farm they weren't sold as a fashion item.



    LOL! I'm not going to waste my time this go around.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Alcibiades

    Alcibiades Senior member

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    This seems pretty simple to me

    If you intend to out your boots through rough conditions (wearing multiple times a week, exposing them to water, dirt and mud, using them as actual work boots, etc), the treatment methods advocated by Crane seem incredibly useful

    If you intended to wear your boots as basically dress casual shoes and want to preserve some of the "break in" aesthetics of whatever leather the boot is (pull up, oily quality or CXL and the shiny glow of cordovan), other methods of care may be preferable. Over at the Alden thread, no one uses Snoseal or Obenauf, but obviously those guys are wearing shoes and boots differently than many on this thread

    No need for contentious debate
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    I actually recommend treating your boots in the manner I describe to anyone. The simple reason is mitigation versus having to deal with something as a reaction to a situation. Some of the nastiest garbage I have ever stepped in was in a city environment. Some bar floors resemble a cesspool. A walk in a park might mean you step in a pile of dog crap or black goo mud. Plain and simply there is no harm done by the apparent overkill that I recommend. It only takes one incident to completely screw up dry or untreated/lightly treated leather.
     
  19. Alcibiades

    Alcibiades Senior member

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    These are all fair points. The only concern I would have is the impact of treatment on the color and break in of the leather. For example, would a heavily treated pair of CXL boots end up with the kind of shine and color seen here (I'm asking as I don't know):

    [​IMG]

    I would be even more concerned with the impact of waterproofing methods on the aesthetics of cordovan and calfskin. For example I've haven't heard of people treating their Trickers or Edward Green "country boots" with heavy waterproofer. That said, I do use products like Alden's "leather protecter" and various suede sprays to protect against elements,

    At that point, it is up to the wearer to determine the costs and benefits of particular treatment methods.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2014
  20. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    You can get one helluva shine on treated CXL. Mario is a master of that. Now the thing with CXL is it doesn't take to being shined up. It's just the nature of that particular leather. Shell cordovan is another heavily waxed and oiled vegetable tanned leather just like CXL. Shell by it's very nature is much more resistant to water because of it's structure. This structure is also why it's regarded as a low maintenance leather. You still have to replace the lost oils and waxes when needed or you end up destroying it. The disconnect is people think low maintenance equals no maintenance. This is why you keep hearing about vintage shell shoes just self destructing after a few wears. The leather has been neglected and it's most likely dry rotted. It could look brand new but what the surface looks like is a poor indicator of whether or not the leather has been seriously compromised. Leather is one of those things that tend to self destruct from within and by the time you actually see damage the item is usually good for the garbage can and that's about it.

    People also spend entirely too much time worrying about color. These types of leather darken or change color from exposure to the elements and sun. It's an absolute exercise in futility to try and stop this from happening. It is the nature of the leather and that really is that. Shell looks like crap in my opinion when it's new. After a decade of use a well cared for shell item develops that awesome patina that is so sought after. Most of your full grain vegetable tanned leathers do this. Plain and simply if you cannot live with this then this type of leather is not for you. You would be better off with some corrected grain glazed shoes or boots.

    If the calfskin item is full grain, full aniline and vegetable tanned then it's treated the same way as any other full grain, full aniline vegetable tanned leather. If it's chrome tanned, corrected, surface dyed and glazed the care regimen is entirely different. This is why it is important to know exactly what you have in your hand.
     

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