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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Rollin Tumble, Feb 1, 2010.

  1. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    They don't. When I get home I wash them off with a hose and let them dry out on the deck in the shade. If they stink I throw them in a bucket of water with some Dawn dish washing soap. After soaking for an hour or two they get rinsed and allowed to dry. Then I retreat them with boot oil and go. Do you actually believe that back in the day anyone babied full grain leather?
     
  2. MarioImpemba

    MarioImpemba Senior member

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    Seriously. Good God...

    Or buy corrected grain; problem solved!
     
  3. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    Mario, you still recommend Lexol for your conditioning right? Have you used it on any Natural CXL at all?

    Also, while the heavier boot oils are great for the kind of use that requires it, I've found Obenauf's oil makes natural CXL turn to a dull muddy color, which is just plain ugly.
     
  4. MarioImpemba

    MarioImpemba Senior member

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    Yep, I use Lexol for everything mostly because:

    1. It's readily available at local stores.
    2. DFWII endorses it.
    3. I'm happy with the results.

    I've never owned anything Natty-CXL, so can't say. (Despite the temptation of your Trench-Boots FS, in my size, I promised myself my next boots will be White's.)

    One important note, Lexol should be applied to a rag first, then wiped on; I've found squirting it directly on leather will stain it temporarily.

    My backpack didn't darken or change-tone with HD LP, but it's dark to begin with...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2013
  5. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    I did indeed use Lexol on my Indy Boots this evening. They came out a very lovely golden color, very similar to the shade that I've seen Natty CXL darken to normally. LP doesn't result in the ugly color, in fact I like the LP color. I haven't decided whether I'm going to LP them, they really really needed oiling so it will have to be at least a week before I put LP on them if at all. It's Obenauf's Oil that gives the really muddy, ugly shade, not the LP. I mean, lets be honest, I probably will, since it's coming on snow and rain season. Interestingly, I've seen a people say that CXL shouldn't have wax-based treatments, because its a waxless leather. This includes Saphir, who says use oils on oil based leathers, and wax on wax based leathers, and don't mix. Probably not meant for people like Crane's, but an interesting debatable point.

    I've actually only seen one pair of *truly* worn in Indy Boots, here on reddit. Crane's would approve I think, though perhaps not of his choice of mink oil for protection. Better than nothing, and damn if he didn't wear those boots the fuck in.

    Oh, and the trench boots sold already, so you're off the hook. Like I said, good boots really hold their value well.
     
  6. Mr M

    Mr M Senior member

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    I received the Kiwi Cordovan wax and the horse hair brush today. Went a bit crazy with wax.

    [​IMG]

    I used hair dryer to melt the wax and applied several coat on the right foot boot. Not much darkening was observed.
    [​IMG]

    After dried I brush the boots in light long strokes. It was an easy shine.
    [​IMG]

    From the side.
    [​IMG]

    Under the afternoon sun.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2013
  7. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    CXL types of leather are not waxless. Beeswax is one of the components of the hot stuff mix that's used in the tanning process. Horween describes the feeling of the leather as waxy not oily even though they do apply neatsfoot oil to the finished leather. We've discussed the problems of neatsfoot oil before but it's worth repeating. Real neatsfoot oil is not easy to find. Most of the stuff these days is made from lard or lard and things like mineral oil. It isn't the real deal. Lard which can rot and petroleum products that can dissolve stitching? No thanks. The same problems exist with mink oil.

    Some of this "advice" that goes around tends to breakdown under a modicum of scrutiny.

    Since most of the boot oils tend to be clear or or a light shade of yellow no color is being added to the leather. What is being seen is what the leather looks like when wet. If you don't believe me get the leather wet with water and see for yourself. Completely water soaked leather will dry in a day or three. In a matter of hours the surface may dry enough that your boots lighten back up like nothing has happened. Oil doesn't "dry" in a day or three. It takes weeks and perhaps months of use before the leather lightens back up. The other problem that I know about is you better have cleaned the leather thoroughly before you oil or waterproof them. If you don't you will drive that nice fine grey or black dirt deep into the leather.

    I constantly hear or read about all kinds of supposed issues with leather goods. Like a great many things most of the trouble stems from things like shitty good sounding advice, the person isn't using or applying a product correctly. or the person just outright refuses to take care of what they have for whatever reason.

    If you tell me that pouring motor oil, naptha and kerosene on your boots and lighting them on fire is good for them then you better have something to show me to prove it. Otherwise I'm not listening.
     
  8. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    Heh, misread the tannage list, read the Chromepack line, not the Chromexcel line. It is indeed "waxy" vs "oily"
     
  9. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    Yeah it's enough to drive you crazy sometimes. I tend to group them differently. Most of the leather we're talking about is vegetable tanned in whole or in part. A liquid conditioner for this type of leather is an essential for keeping the leather alive. We have a long list from lighter stuff like Lexol up to the heavier stuff like Filson, Obenauf and Chamberlains. Most of the heavier oils do have beeswax in them as a component. It's a leather lubricant and gives the leather some hydrophobic properties as well. If I remember right beeswax also has antbacterial and antifungal properties so it helps keep the leather from rotting.

    I'm thinking some of what you mentioned above is nothing more than a convenient "solution" to mitigate the so called discoloring phenomena. IMO it's nothing more than a convenient scapegoat.
     
  10. Pecan89

    Pecan89 Well-Known Member

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    Why are Montana Pitch Blend products never mentioned?
     
  11. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    Pine tar is not good for leather.
     
  12. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    My confusion was miseading that chart, and reading Saphir's description of their CXL greasy leather treatment, which advises against wax-based products on CXL. As I said, I don't mind the discoloring, I mind ugly discoloring. On brown CXL Obenauf's Oil has looked great, and I highly recommend everyone use it. On Natural CXL and veggie tan, it always seems to come out looking like mud, dull and flat. If it's what's needed, I'd use it, but since Lexol seems to work incredibly well (and is so cheap and readily available) that seems to do it for me. I'll probably give them an LP'ing in a week anyway, since I need something that can romp in the snow (in addition to my 6" and 8" beans).
     
  13. Meezus

    Meezus Member

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    Kind of figured my post would eventually get you a little riled up lol, I know you've been answering similar questions for 283 pages.

    I totally understand (although I have 0 experience) that this leather will darken on its own over time, however it seems different products for conditioning/protecting produce different levels of darkening. I would just prefer not to have dark chocolate colored 1k's on day 1. Again as I said before, I'm not asking for zero darkening, I just don't think it's unreasonable to be interested in their color. Otherwise, I would've just bought black. And clearly I am interested in treating the boots or else I wouldn't be on here trying to learn.
    Oh and I was asking rif if with his "minimal care" (assume that at probably means no LP) he has experienced any water damage. I know from your posts your LP'd boots have seen a little water and survived.
     
  14. Sunstealer73

    Sunstealer73 Senior member

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    I've found that the Obenauf's oil darkens much more than the HDLP.
     
  15. space4lyfe

    space4lyfe Well-Known Member

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    Hey, so I purchased both the Obenauff LP and Oil, and was wondering, for a new pair of boots, do i have to use the oil first? If so, how long after applying the oil can i apply the LP.
     
  16. ihatesundays

    ihatesundays Member

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    I applied 2 coats of oil, waited a day in between coats although i noticed that it dried after about an hour. The next day i used crane's method with the lp.
     
  17. michaeljohnr

    michaeljohnr Senior member

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    I was out and about today so I stopped and tried a pair of 100 Mile boots.

    They were very comfortable, and I really liked the way they looked - from the plain toe 1000 Mile through the Rockford cap toed and the Addison wingtips. Obviously a piece of handcrafted quality.

    My question goes more toward color.

    Not owning these (yet), what would you guys....the owners...say the most versatile color is?

    I was looking at the black Addison wingtips to wear with a pair of Gustin grey silk jeans I am expecting, but also thought they would look great with many other things.

    I want these to wear them casually and even on occasion, out in the evening.

    Suggestions?

    Thanks in advance, it's appreciated.
     
  18. michaeljohnr

    michaeljohnr Senior member

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    Duplicate post.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2013
  19. AmericanLion

    AmericanLion Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have a good suggestion for inserts(high arch foot) that works well with the W1K boot?
     
  20. Mr M

    Mr M Senior member

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    My guess would be Rust. I have not own Rust yet but the close colour to it Cordovan is what I always wear to the office.

    [​IMG]
     

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