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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Rollin Tumble, Feb 1, 2010.

  1. Patek

    Patek Senior member

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    For those worried about my cordovan cigar Indy boots, they cleaned up perfectly fine along with my wife's Wolverine 1,000 mile boots which I also Snow Sealed for her for the fall.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    Those look great! I was going to say that most people here wouldn't be too worried about getting a pair of shell boots all garden'd up.

    Her sno-sealed W1Ks look great. Mine never really recovered from being sno-sealed, though they were 744s. No shine to them, and they are super dark brown. They still have a light residue on them, even with more hair drying, buffing, and even some saddle soap (though that made them beter). They look great, and I must say feel thicker, pliable and durable, but just don't have that shell look and feel to them. If I could do it again, I would leave them be, honestly.
     
  3. MarioImpemba

    MarioImpemba Senior member

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    Add kiwi, they will shine right up. Infusing shell with wax only makes it easier to shine, in my experience.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  4. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    Yeah I think if I were just trying to get a nice shine that'd work. But I'm actually more just looking to get back down to the base shell. There are parts that don't have the residue that really shine up nicely.
     
  5. MarioImpemba

    MarioImpemba Senior member

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    Then I rec reno like in the top half of the first pic. And/or just some Lexol and brushing.

    If you have left over residue you need to hit those areas with more heat so the leather eats it up, or wipe/brush it off.

    Get them 744's pretty, son. Cold Iron's look really good.

    These are my reg 1K's that are also snosealed:
    [​IMG]
     
  6. digga

    digga Senior member

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    does the renovator get rid of that nasty residue from the sno seal?

    the sno-seal/filson oil combo is the worst thing that ever happened to my boots. my other chromexcel shoes that just get venetian shoe cream or renovator look and feel so much better.

    not really sure why, but my brown 1k's and my black 1k's bot got the same treatment and the brown ones are way nastier.
     
  7. MarioImpemba

    MarioImpemba Senior member

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    Any residue I had left over came off from wiping/brushing. I really think those of you using a hair dryer need to spot-heat those areas. I had little residue after oven-baking in my application.

    And then yes, Reno or Venetian should take care of any residue, as aren't they both ostensibly turpentine? Reno really strips down any product layers on top of leather.

    Obenauf's HD, IME, makes it damn near impossible to shine anything up, but I've had no issues with SnoSeal [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2013
  8. crosswound

    crosswound Senior member

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    mario so you recommend the reno, then saddle soap, and lexol conditioner? its hard to tell what the items are in that photo tiny images for old man like me :nodding:

    don't know if the kiwi product in that photo is saddle soap can't make out the text on it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2013
  9. MarioImpemba

    MarioImpemba Senior member

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    The bottom of that pic is SnoSeal, Lexol and Kiwi Neutral wax.

    The top I simply used Reno - this was weeks later after the above (3) products were used.

    I recommend just Lexol to condition once in awhile, and Kiwi if you want a shine.

    Reno can be used once in awhile to remove product build up and give your leather a nice sheen.

    Hope that makes sense.
     
  10. digga

    digga Senior member

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    I sno-sealed my boots a year or so ago, and have used oil on them a couple times. I think i re-sno-sealed them at some point too. My biggest problem with my brown pair is that dust sticks to them like crazy. if i walk on gravel or through dry grass or whatever, they get all powdery.

    I don't have this problem with my other chromexcel stuff, and i never really had this problem with the analine leather red wings i used to wear when i had a labor type job, though those mostly just got treated with used diesel engine oil and atf.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  11. cthip

    cthip Senior member

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    I also have lots of problems with dust after SnoSeal. I can buff them up to a nice shine as crane has demonstrated many times, but within a day or two, dust just seems to stick to them--even if they're just sitting at home! After a few months, dust no longer seems to stick as badly but around that time i usually discover that they are not nearly as water-resistant either!

    Also--after wearing the SnoSealed boots all day, there's a distinct odor when i take them off. Yes, all boots/feet smell to some extent, but this is something different entirely. It's certainly not a wet/putrid/rotten smell that you get from mistreated, wet, or mold-infested boots. It just smells "stale" and slightly chemical, and it's a pretty strong smell!

    I've never used Montana Pitch Blend, Obenauf's, or any of the other popular boot greases. If either of them are better than SnoSeal in the areas mentioned above then I'd definitely like to give them a try.

    FWIW I have another pair of Chromexcel boots (Alden Officer's Indy from Epaulet) that I have not SnoSealed. They don't have either of the above issues (dust and odd smell).
     
  12. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    Snoseal does have a distinct odor. It doesn't bother me one way or the other. Dust sticking to the boots is normal after oiling them or waterproofing them. I think part of the problem is some are over treating them. Last year I treated my boots with oil then a week later with a light snoseal job. I wore them every single day for almost 8 months without treating them again. They didn't need it. I think some people are making the mistake of using too much oil/snoseal along with treating them far to often as well. Yes you can overdue it. It's not as bad as letting them go dry but rest assured more is not better. One of the simplest ways to deal with the whole residue grime thing is to wipe them down with some lexol cleaner every once and make it a point to brush them at the end of each day. Nothing ridiculous just a quick once over lightly.
     
  13. sthomas26

    sthomas26 Member

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    Do you guys use shoe trees for your wolverines? I just got a pair in rust. I use them mostly in a dress manner, not likely to go hiking with them.
     
  14. SeeSaw

    SeeSaw New Member

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    I know this has been discussed previously but I didn't see a definitive answer:

    Should the 'Predator' leather of the Austen 1ks be treated the same as the Chromexel of the originals?
     
  15. redzero

    redzero Active Member

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    Anybody with 1000 Miles in tan want to post a fit? I'm really liking them.
     
  16. cthip

    cthip Senior member

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    Thanks for clarifying. You're right I've definitely been using less SnoSeal since I've started reading your posts and the situation has improved. And yea, wiping or brushing the dust off is really not a big deal.



    I used shoe trees for awhile when they were new, but it was sort of a hassle to squeeze the shoe trees in there everyday so I stopped. Haven't used shoe trees in about two years and the shape of my boots is just fine. Then again, these are my rain/snow/mud boots.

    I do throw in some cheap cedar satchels or cedar marbles after wearing my boots. They do nothing for the shape of the boots but help to manage odor and moisture. Works for me!
     
  17. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    One other thing. Anything with pine tar in it will leave the leather sticky and turn it into a dirt magnet. I treated my boots once with boot oil with pine tar in it. That'll never happen again.
     
  18. brokeassp

    brokeassp Senior member

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    Can Renomat strip the leather of snoseal?
     
  19. Crane's

    Crane's Senior member

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    Not really. Snoseal and boot oil penetrates deep in the leather.
     
  20. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    Yeah, at this point the residue isn't a thick gunk or anything. It's just a light veneer, so that if if I rub my finger on the leather, I see a streak (which doesn't happen with my other shells). They will shine up well enough with a light brushing, but they are dust magnets and get super dull super quickly. I'm not really worried about it. When I hair dry them, I still see the veneer get wet and then get slurped in. If I do it the next day, the stuff is on the surface again to get slurped in again.

    Anyway, I think that just another season of wearing without treatment will probably get a lot of that stuff gone, and I'll keep wiping and hairdrying them until I'm back to the base shell, which I'm pretty close to, really.
     

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