Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Wolf vs Goat Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by falathar, Oct 6, 2015.

  1. OhHello

    OhHello Senior member

    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    73
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2015
    For the u-neck, I vote for rough edge collar and finished hems. I'd be happy with a darker shade of grey, or a deep burgundy.
     


  2. Blackmaged

    Blackmaged Senior member

    Messages:
    1,303
    Likes Received:
    384
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2010
    

    +1

    black or charcoal :) please no fruity colors
     


  3. notwithit

    notwithit Pullup laureate

    Messages:
    7,925
    Likes Received:
    5,573
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2010
    Location:
    New Gentrificationland
    Rad, looking forward to the u-neck(s) dropping. At that price point I'll probably just pick up one, but hopefully there will be a u-neck option for the bamboo-sorona blend that comes out later.
     


  4. GoodTwillHuntin

    GoodTwillHuntin Senior member

    Messages:
    176
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2015
    So any word on when the tees are dropping? Or any other details?
     


  5. OhHello

    OhHello Senior member

    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    73
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2015
    I spoke with Mauro a bit earlier today, and I’ve got a few updates. I’m sure everyone’s interested in production timelines for all the new projects (I know I was), but keep in mind that all the dates can easily change if things get stuck along they way at any step in the process.

    Sweatshirts are currently being fabricated. If all goes according to plan, they should be finished up toward the end of the month. If there are any delays, it sounds like the end of June would be the worst-case scenario (unless something really unexpected happens).

    Enzo chinos will be getting fab’d soon. The sample is currently on it’s way over to the factory. Best estimate is that they’ll ship from Italy in 5-6 weeks.

    The sweatpants pattern is currently being made. Best guess is that product will ship from Italy in 6 weeks.

    The trousers are waiting for a spot in the queue at the factory. They’re ready to go, and Mauro is expecting a 4 week production timeline once they get going. It sounds like he’ll have a better estimate soon, once they’re scheduled at the factory.

    The tees sound really awesome, and there should be a newsletter soon, but I forgot to ask for a date. Mauro is going to send me the fabric swatches for the tees, and I’ll definitely write up a hands-on post once I get them, but it sounds like they’re on another level. Based on how much I already love WvG fabrics, I’m excited to check these out. I always feel like it goes without saying with WvG, but these tees will be made at the highest level of quality. As Mauro likes to say, when you’re dealing with fabrics at this level, using anything other than the best construction would be sinful.

    Bamboo tee production is in flux. The factory that has made the tees in the past has closed up shop, so he’s currently searching for a new factory that can work with the fabric and meet his exacting standards. If he’s able find a US factory, he expects to have a run of bamboo-sorona tees this summer. If he can’t find a factory in the US, he’ll make heavyweight tees in Italy for the fall, but shipping the fabric from Canada to Italy, and then having to import the finished product to the US is really expensive. Shipping/duties will cost and additional $10-$15 per tee, so the tee prices would have to go up by that amount.

    Finally, the U-neck. It’s all up to us fellas. Mauro’s making it for us, so it’s on us to decide what we want. There’s only going to be one make-up, so we have to reach some sort of a consensus. Our first task is to settle on a pattern. Let’s not fuck this up.
    -Neck opening width and depth
    -Shirt length (do we want to extend it from the bamboo pattern?)
    -Do we want a looser fit, or stick with something like the bamboo pattern?
    -Edge finishing (rough or finished seams)
    -Any other stylistic tweaks we want? Drop the arm holes? Curved hem along the bottom? Slanted seams or fabric gathering at the seams (a la Rick Owens)?

    Mauro recommended going with a looser fit than the bamboo pattern because the fabric has such a great drape. It sounds like we'd be losing some of the character of this fabric if we go too tight.

    Anyone know what the easiest way to make an online poll is? Let’s start by bouncing ideas around here, and then I’ll try to tabulate our votes for different options.

    I’m going to need to measure some neck openings this weekend before I can even start guessing there. I’d be up for extending the length about an inch from the bamboo pattern. Based on Mauro's suggestion, going a little looser than the bamboo pattern sounds good to me. I'm sure he can advise us on that. I like the idea of a rough edge neck opening and I think I’ve switched over to unfinished hems (could still go either way). I’m kind of intrigued by the idea of using slanted seams to inject some instability into the tee. I’m not saying go full RO, but it could be interesting.

    Anyway, what does everyone else think?
     


  6. stevenkmason

    stevenkmason Senior member

    Messages:
    268
    Likes Received:
    228
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2012
    Location:
    Michigan
    Rough edge, unfinished hems, looser fit. I would be cool with doing something wacky with the seams but I won't push for it.

    Best way to do a survey is Google Forms.
     


  7. jmaudi0

    jmaudi0 Senior member

    Messages:
    869
    Likes Received:
    156
    Joined:
    May 11, 2012
    Location:
    Land of Pleasant Living
    as far as U-Neck size goes I'm a huge fan of the John Elliot Curved U-Neck (don't want to link and cause a thread hi-jack). I feel like that size/depth is perfect.

    I'm up for a little looser of a fit, maybe a slightly curved hem, and some pinching of the fabric at the seams. Rough edge and unfinished hems for sure. Would love this in a off white or grey melange style fabric. Can't be see through tho....
     


  8. Callusing

    Callusing Senior member

    Messages:
    317
    Likes Received:
    139
    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2013
    Location:
    San Diego
    I'll preface this by saying that I'm whatever the opposite of picky is, so I'll voice my opinions to add to the conversation, but I know my tastes run a little different from a lot of core WvG customers. (As I put it to Mauro in the survey at the end of last year, I'm a lot more Saint Laurent than Saint Crispin)

    What I'm really looking for in a U-neck is something that looks really dope under a jacket, especially a trucker or biker jacket. To me, a slinky white U-neck is the absolute perfect companion to a badass leather jacket, so that's the context I'm thinking about, and that's how I'd most often wear mine. For day to day wear by themselves, I'll probably stick with my rollnecks.

    • In terms of neck opening, I'd actually be quite happy with something similar to the rollnecks with maybe 2 inches more drop (height) and the same width. This would be a lot like John Elliott's U-necks and less like Alexander Wang or (moreso) Rick Owens, which have more circular, "wider-than-usual-everywhere" necks. For me, it's because I've got huge traps, and I start looking like an uberdouche very quickly when the neck gets too wide along the sides. My favorite "U-neck approximation" right now is actually a J Crew Factory V-neck where I cut out all the ribbing at the neck (which was suggested over on the Slutty Tees thread)...it's about as wide as a WvG rollneck left to right, but deeper in the front, and it looks fucking dope. (JCF changed the cut on their tees, so I even need an alternate for this these days...[​IMG]) And if I can make one firm request, please no ribbing.
    • Length-wise, the bamboo tees I've got are already so long that they 'stack" at my hip...which is a lovely effect, but I personally wouldn't want them any longer. I know I've got a short torso, though...worst comes to worst if everybody else wanted them longer, I could just trim the bottoms on my own.
    • Fit-wise, I would personally love for the fit to stay trim, but I've got a huge personal bias here. The current WvG tee fits me absolutely perfectly, just as I think a drapey tee should - fitted through the chest and shoulders, with plenty of space around the waist and hips to fold and flow. I think there'd still be plenty of opportunity to let the fabric show off its properties as it is now, along with a wonderfully form-flattering silhouette. And I just don't like boxy tees in general, but I know that's more and more of a minority opinion these days.
    • On second thought, I could be convinced either way on the seams. I think the seaming should follow from the other details - if we decide on something with a more "aggressive" vibe (a much bigger neck, plus slanted seams or anything like that), rough seams would be fitting, but for a simpler shirt, finished seams would be nice.
    • In terms of other stuff, I'd prefer to keep it minimal, both to keep costs down and so the shirt is still relatively versatile. (I'm hoping this will be a tee I can wear under jackets for years to come, even as trends shift) So I'd be against anything too fancy that "imposes" a style like slanted seams or gathering at the seams (details I love with Rick's tees, but they make them a bit harder to work into some fits...and we'll get plenty of stacking with these drapey fabrics and the right cut), though I would be totally down for a seam down the back along that vibe. Curved hems I'm pretty ambivalent on. I'd be OK with moving the shoulder seams out a bit if it could be done without affecting the fit...it looks really, really good on Saint Laurent's tees, and I think it fits the vibe.

    Really, I'm just looking for the same things I come to regular WvG tees for, with a beautiful fabric and a deeper (but not extreme) neckline. I want a basic, but exceptionally well-made shirt that's remarkable not because it's got anything fancy going on, but just because a well-made, well-fitting tee will always look damn good.

    Also, one logistical note that'd be important is to do everything possible to make sure that sizing translates well to what we're used to with WvG. I'd love for sizing for me to be as simple as, "A WvG bamboo tee fits me perfectly in an S, so I should take an S in this." I think we saw from the Egyptian Cotton shirts that even the implication of sizing inconsistency can cause a lot of headache for a lot of people.

    All considered, though, if everybody decides they want something different, I'm almost certainly gonna buy anyway. Not often an opportunity comes along to get such an exceptional shirt for such an exceptional price. Worst comes to worst, I'll wait for the next time ribbed-neck V-neck tees come out, and do like I did with my JCF tees and butcher them to taste. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2016


  9. notwithit

    notwithit Pullup laureate

    Messages:
    7,925
    Likes Received:
    5,573
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2010
    Location:
    New Gentrificationland
    Re: tees, I'll go in with the following:

    Neck opening: I'd say wider and deeper = better. Obviously there's a limit, but I'd like to see a noticeable increase over the opening on roll-neck tees.

    Hem shape: I'm partial to curved.

    Edge: I could go either way on raw vs. ribbed or whatever.

    Length: Generally speaking, longer = better. Definitely longer than the bamboo-sorona tees would be good, maybe by 2" or so. Longer sleeves would be good as well.

    Fit: I'm definitely on board with looser. A nice drapey, flowy fabric is going to look better with a more relaxed fit about 95% of the time on 98% of people.

    Seams: I don't feel strongly either way about the idea of slanted seams, a back seam, &c. I think Mauro designs some cool shit and could come up with something unique, but more traditional construction is fine by me and may be a little more versatile.

    Other: I strongly prefer wider shoulder measurements on u-necks. IMO a u-neck with narrow shoulders makes it look like you're wearing your girlfriend's shirt, which is generally not a great look. Unless you're trans-identified and that's what you're going for, obvs.

    Caveat: Overall, I'm inclined to go with whatever Mauro recommends.
     


  10. NotClever

    NotClever Senior member

    Messages:
    294
    Likes Received:
    69
    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2011
    Did anyone else get their trouser order refunded? Really disappointed; I'm in dire need of summer weight trousers and have been waiting a year for Mauro to drop some.
     


  11. joelmax

    joelmax Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    56
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2013
    I actually got my trousers last week or so. I thought it was a pre-order so I was surprised when they came in the mail.
     


  12. chupas

    chupas Senior member

    Messages:
    364
    Likes Received:
    504
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2013
    Yeah 1/2 were refunded :( Which ones did you order?
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2016


  13. justtemple

    justtemple Senior member

    Messages:
    1,812
    Likes Received:
    140
    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2008
    Location:
    Baltimore, MD


  14. notwithit

    notwithit Pullup laureate

    Messages:
    7,925
    Likes Received:
    5,573
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2010
    Location:
    New Gentrificationland
    Definitely a fan of the flower print seersucker. Would make a great picnic shirt.
     


  15. Nik Telford

    Nik Telford Senior member

    Messages:
    1,447
    Likes Received:
    375
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2014
    Agreed! I remember i asked him about it at one point after he opened up the mtm program. I'm definitely tempted by it but I want to know cost and expected turn around time. The turn around times haven't been the greatest lately so im a little leery of ordering. I dont want to end up paying for a summer shirt I'm not getting until october.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by