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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by rtr, May 25, 2005.

  1. rtr

    rtr Member

    Likes Received:
    Oct 19, 2004
    After acquiring two pairs of Vass budapesters, I have become deeply obsessed with wingtips. I love the way that they can simultaneously come off as reasonably casual (to the fashion cognescenti) and highly formal (to Americans who have grown up seeing them as the iconic business shoe). This flexibility, though, has left me wondering exactly in what contexts it is appropriate to wear them.

    I work in a business casual setting. My standard attire consists of wool pants, sweaters, tweed and corduroy jackets, etc. I wear ties only on rare occasions. My understanding is that a blucher wingtip fits in well with these garments. Are they ever acceptable with suits?

    What about oxford wingtips? May they be worn with odd pants and jackets (without tie)? Should they be reserved for times when I'm wearing a tie (with either suit or odd jacket)? I have a pair of Alden reverse calf oxford wingtips. I assume they are slightly more casual than the calfskin equivalent. How much more casual are they (ie. should they be worn only with odd jackets/pants and a tie, or may they be worn with wool pants, a jacket and no tie)?

    Finally, with what should one wear the longwing? Are they casual enough to fit in with jeans or khakis? Or should they be grouped with the regular wingtip blucher?

    I understand that the rules are slightly flexible, but I'm thinking of getting a couple more pairs of wingtips and I don't want to get shoes which I won't fit in with what I wear on a day to day basis. Thanks in advance for any advice.

  2. Will

    Will Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Likes Received:
    Jun 15, 2004
    San Francisco
    You might wear a blucher wingtip with country suits. Perfectly OK with flannels or cords and a jacket or a sweater.

    Oxford bluchers of all styles are suited for textured suits, such as flannels. I don't wear my Adelaide brogues and differently than I wear my Balmoral brogues. The only rule is that simpler shoes are more formal.

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