Will any shoemakers allow you to provide your own last?

[godofcoffee]

Title pretty much covers it: if I already have my own lasts, made for my feet in a way that most shoemakers would be unwilling to accommodate through their last-production processes, are there any shoemakers that would make a shoe for me on said lasts? Would the process be commensurately cheaper than producing shoes from scratch? I'd be interested if bespoke shoe nuts could weigh in.

 

[TEHesketh]

There's a chap called Cliff Roberts in Northampton who makes shoes on customers own lasts. If you do a search on the forum you'll find his contact details.

However, your question sounds rather bizarre to be quite honest.
You are asking if a shoemaker would make a shoe on a last he would be "unwilling" to make himself. I would say if a trained last maker refuses to make you the last you want, there would be a reason for it and for that same reason he would be unlikely to make you a shoe on it.

On a more general note, it is very uncommon for a bespoke shoe maker to make shoes on someone else's lasts.

Rob

 

[bengal-stripe]



......I already have my own lasts,........are there any shoemakers that would make a shoe for me on said lasts?

Like everything in life, it is a question of negotiations.

 

[fritzl]



Title pretty much covers it:

imo, it's not worth the hassle...

 

[DWFII]



Title pretty much covers it: if I already have my own lasts, made for my feet in a way that most shoemakers would be unwilling to accommodate through their last-production processes, are there any shoemakers that would make a shoe for me on said lasts? Would the process be commensurately cheaper than producing shoes from scratch? I'd be interested if bespoke shoe nuts could weigh in.

Most bespoke makers generate the patterns for a pair of shoes directly from the last. There is no ready reason that a bespoke maker would refuse to use your lasts.

Now, I've not seen the lasts...there may be a reason why they would be difficult to work with...but barring major distortion from normal foot/last shapes it shouldn't be any more onerous than working with any other last.

RTW, on the other hand, have their patterns already generated for specific sizes (length and width) and specific shapes and configurations (last models). It would be a major hassle for a manufacturer to make up an individual set of patterns for these particular lasts. Then they would have to stop any production run that was in progress to adjust the lasting machine etc., to accommodate your last. And, presumably, if they deigned to make the shoes, they'd have to readjust the machines to get back up and running.

So you see what you're up against.

 

[Nick V.]

I see some other potential problems the maker may be exposing himself to:
1. As eluded to, certain lasts are designed for particular styles.
2. It's common that your foot changes shape/sizes over a period of time. So, if you recently had a pair of let's say Oxfords made on your lasts and they fit correctly chances are making another pair of Oxfords won't be a problem. Going to a double monk however may present a problem.
3. If you have not had a pair of shoes made on your lasts for a while and your foot changed during the last pair you had made, that will present a problem. As the customer, you are expecting the same fit when in reality under those circumstances that's impossible. Now the maker is in a bind having no choice but to modify the last so it's correct for your foot. An expense and time he didn't expect when he took the order.

 

[DWFII]



I see some other potential problems the maker may be exposing himself to:
1. As eluded to, certain lasts are designed for particular styles.
2. It's common that your foot changes shape/sizes over a period of time. So, if you recently had a pair of let's say Oxfords made on your lasts and they fit correctly chances are making another pair of Oxfords won't be a problem. Going to a double monk however may present a problem.
3. If you have not had a pair of shoes made on your lasts for a while and your foot changed during the last pair you had made, that will present a problem. As the customer, you are expecting the same fit when in reality under those circumstances that's impossible. Now the maker is in a bind having no choice but to modify the last so it's correct for your foot. An expense and time he didn't expect when he took the order.

Nick,

Some good points but I would make two remarks...

First, shoemakers who carve their own lasts to fit the customers foot, don't really take too much notice of how lasts are designated relative to shoe styles. In other words, an Anthony Delos doesn't carve a last much different for an Oxford than he does for a Derby. He is more concerned with the foot.

That is not to say that you could make a penny loafer on an oxford last without modifying the last fairly extensively. But you can make a derby on an oxford last (and vice versa) without much concern, if any. And a monk is essentially a derby.

Second, the OP should be aware...as you have suggested...that feet do change and if he goes into a bespoke maker and requests that the maker use his lasts, the maker cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of fit. The last determines fit.

 

[Macallan]

Alfred Sargent can make MTO shoes using the customer's own last

 

[godofcoffee]

Great advice so far, thanks a bunch to everyone. I'm afraid I jotted off my question at a late hour, so I didn't fully elaborate what I was thinking of.

I asked my original question for two reasons:

1) This is going to sound very unstylishly utilitarian, but I prefer to wear socks with toes in them, and my toes spread further apart naturally than most people's. My small toe is most comfortable spread wider than the joint at which most shoemakers will make the shoe widest. I would like to have a last made which would accommodate this: perhaps a lot of shoemakers will make the adjustment for me, but I've only been to a couple of the better-known ones in New York and a few in Hong Kong, so I'm not sure.

2) I'm wondering whether I could make lasts as a hobby. I don't have much interest in actual shoemaking, but lastmaking seems neat enough that I might try my hand at it. If I do, I'd like to have an actual shoemaker convert whatever amateur lasts I produce into real shoes.

 

[TEHesketh]



1) This is going to sound very unstylishly utilitarian, but I prefer to wear socks with toes in them, and my toes spread further apart naturally than most people's. My small toe is most comfortable spread wider than the joint at which most shoemakers will make the shoe widest. I would like to have a last made which would accommodate this: perhaps a lot of shoemakers will make the adjustment for me, but I've only been to a couple of the better-known ones in New York and a few in Hong Kong, so I'm not sure.

2) I'm wondering whether I could make lasts as a hobby. I don't have much interest in actual shoemaking, but lastmaking seems neat enough that I might try my hand at it. If I do, I'd like to have an actual shoemaker convert whatever amateur lasts I produce into real shoes.

For 1) perhaps go to an orthopaedic shoemaker, they are usually less concerned about the aesthetics.
For 2) I wouldn't recommend it. Look at it this way, an orthopaedic last maker will produce a last to help correct physical defects, a last from someone who doesn't know what they are doing will have the opposite effect.

Regards
Rob