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Wide vs Skinny Lapel

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Superfluous, Jul 19, 2011.

Skinny or Wide Lapels

  1. Skinny Lapels

    50 vote(s)
    30.1%
  2. Wide Lapels

    105 vote(s)
    63.3%
  3. No Lapels

    11 vote(s)
    6.6%
  1. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I think Ill always look like a modernist whatever I wear. I think mod styling can be wildly varied, its more about attitude, quality and neat attention to detail than overt styling choices although they are certainly signifiers. For example I sort of think that whatever David Bowie wears he always looks like a modernist. I was lucky enough to be involved with making a suit for James Brown once that had 3 vents....now that was totally mod!

    Not that Im being combative, just my thoughts.
     
  2. Agatha Crusty

    Agatha Crusty Senior member

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    The photo of the peak lapel suit the OP posted is not really wide, just peaked, mid-width lapels. I'd be happy with that. The very skinny lapels that turned up in mod/Ska revival of the very late 70s and early 80s put me off (though I probably thought they were cool in the 80s).

    Anyhow if Mad Men goes on into the 70s we get some serious lapel widths and loud checked fabrics.
     
  3. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like a narrow lapel. Liked it before the recent fad, will like it after. But it's really a question of extremes. A tiny, barely-there lapel looks silly, but so does an enormous, shoulder-spanning '70s lapel.

    In general, I think the '60s looks have better stood the test of time than did the stuff from the late '70s. Conspicuous excess, in general, doesn't hold up well in the harsh light of day. The party's fun, but once the sun comes up, you start wondering how things went so out of control.

    It's interesting to see the shift in SF tastes with the changing fashions. A few years ago, the wide lapel would have drawn laughs, or at least been dismissed as dated. How many poor coats have been returned to thrift shops because the forum deemed their lapels too wide?
     
  4. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    It goes by your size and body type- skinny guy, skinny lapel - big guy, big lapel. As far as I'm concerned, it doesn't change with the times.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2011
  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Everyone can look good in a narrow lapel. :inlove:

    Compare this tastefully narrow peak on a larger fellow:

    [​IMG]

    with this middle-of-the-road lapel on a smaller fellow:

    [​IMG]
     
  6. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Would look better with an additional 3/4" IMO

    Skinny long face, stingy brim on the bowler and an skinny lapel- works (could even go down 1/4")
     
  7. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think it's perfection.:inlove: :inlove:

    I'd would, without hesitation, patronize any tailor I thought could give me a convincing version of that suit and not a disappointing simulacrum.

    See, I don't like anything about that pic. Bowler too big, lapels too large, vest too gimmicky. Ralph, as you note, has all the right features for narrower lapels, yet they didn't give them to him. Instead, he looks like a kid playing dress up in dad's clothes.

    If there must be a faux Steed, at least put him in proper Steed-style gear.

    Gratuitous bonus pic posted solely because I hadn't seen before:

    [​IMG]
     
  8. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, not solely ... But I hadn't seen it before.
     
  9. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    That doesn't make sense. Your logic suggests that one should scale up the lapel size according to the width of the wearer. That means, proportionately, everyone's lapels would be exactly the same width. That doesn't mean big guys would have wide lapels, and skinny guys accordingly skinny lapels; but rather, everyone would just have 'normal' lapels. (Even if you were scaling exponentially for some bizarre reason, it wouldn't have any logic to it.)

    Thus, the lapel's proportionate width is a stylistic choice, and has nothing to do with one's width or height.

    I like wide lapels, especially if it's a notch: Corneliani style.
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2011
  10. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

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    My Lapels are the same width as my tie. That is about 2.5"-3" at their widest point. I find this keeps a nice balance. For my wider ties, I have wider lapels.
     
  11. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    It seems the OP was trying to have some fun, pitting wide vs. narrow. That said, a question for you. Curious, your widest tie and widest jacket lapels, in inches, would be? and your height?
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2011
  12. promark809

    promark809 Active Member

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    I tried on a wide lapel blazer once, and it looked a little off for me since I'm more of an athletic build and have a bigger chest. I think having a thinner lapel helps balance things out.
     
  13. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Only if you don't mind looking silly. ;)
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2011
  14. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    This is an interesting question - so I'll bite!

    I'm 5'-8", 155lb, about 38-39" chest and have wide shoulders for my size. The widest lapel and tie that I am currently wearing are about 3-1/4". I have a few 'currently stylish' suits with 2" lapels and thus 2" ties. But when buying 'currently stylish' clothes I tend to only buy a few and to buy medium to lower priced goods. These I wear as 'beaters' for everyday use as they will be 'out of style' soon enough and by that time will be worn out.

    When buying for the long haul (high quality for meetings and client contact days) I always stick with the 'perfect' proportion for me of 3" to 3-1/4" inches.

    Now that I am older and thus heavier than I've ever been I keep meaning to try on some double breasted jackets w/ peaked lapels - as for many years I was just to small to make them look good. But wonder now if I might not be able to pull it off better.

    I would be VERY interested in hearing some others respond with their basic measurements as well as the widths they prefer.
     
  15. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    Ahh, well that explains the failure of brands like Corneliani and Tom Ford. And moreover, the widespread distaste for H. Hunstman's house cut.

    If all wearers of these makers, and many more, look 'silly', then I for one don't mind being amongst them in the least.
     
  16. calogero

    calogero Well-Known Member

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    That fabric is hideous! I really cannot fathom how some of you find abominations such as the above even mildly aesthetically pleasing. It looks like something my grandpa would have worn. Vomit.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Quote:
    Exactly!
    :)
     
  18. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    That Chester Barrie rules!

    I've been going 3.75 on my latest stuff. I like that size for my build. Its not overly large but large enough for me to notice thats its not the "standard". I feel I'm too "v-shaped" to look good in skinny lapels. That tends to look good on skinny people.
     
  19. fwiffo

    fwiffo Senior member

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    I'm a 36S person, and I just weighed myself at 137lbs, so I assume I will go for skinny. I do have one suit I thrifted that has a lapel big enough for those 3.75 or 4" ties I collected in the 1990s, but the last decade has been good for a person of my frame. I try to stick to 3" now for conservative but for a time around the start of the recession, I didn't hesitate wearing 2.75" or 2.5" ties even to work (my field is in insurance).

    Because skinny lapel suits are so pervasive, I find a lot of guys wear it in the financial district in Toronto. Even the older gents are sporting skinnier (3" or 3.25") ties. But I'm not sure if that's because people have developed a taste or they just buy it because it's the most readily available thing in the store.
     
  20. Icarus

    Icarus Senior member

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    Hmmm.....



    35 % (narrow)


    to



    61% (wide)





    I believe that's about the same percentage (35%) of U.S. and Russian voters who in 2009 said they would like to see back at the helm Bush and Stalin, respectively.

    Just something to think about.
     

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