Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Why would you like NON-functional buttonholes?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Made in California, Aug 1, 2010.

  1. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

    Messages:
    8,680
    Likes Received:
    420
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2004
    I like having functional buttonholes on my Chan suits and jackets. If I bought another RTW jacket (which I doubt I will), I wouldn't bother with the upcharge for the working buttonholes.

    Agree that non-functional buttonholes look atrocious.
     


  2. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

    Messages:
    7,520
    Likes Received:
    1,575
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2007
    I prefer real to fake, although the difference usually isn't enough for me to pay a tailor to put real ones in. When/if I do I usually go with 2 real & 2 fake.
    Me too, if I'm getting something made. If it's rtw or thrifted, I leave them non-functional.
    Up close, faux buttonholes tend to look atrocious.
    I think this is usually true. But Chan's don't. Their functional and non-functional look the same to me. At first I thought they'd made all four functional, but they hadn't.
     


  3. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

    Messages:
    1,419
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    May 16, 2009
    The only reason I can think of for not liking them is to make alterations of the suit jacket arms easier in the future. But that seems like a very minor benefit.

    Are you kidding? Virtually every jacket I buy off the rack needs the sleeves shortened. The hassle and cost of working buttonholes far outweighs their minor benefit.

    If I were going custom, the cost-benefit would shift, but there'd still be no great advantage to surgeon's cuffs. You don't need them to hike up your sleeves. There's no "fake"ness about non-functional buttons--do you consider the non-functioning row of buttons on a DB jacket to be fake and insincere?

    And, of course, people who wear one button open to show off their surgeon's cuffs are awful people.
     


  4. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

    Messages:
    8,680
    Likes Received:
    420
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2004
    I think this is usually true. But Chan's don't. Their functional and non-functional look the same to me. At first I thought they'd made all four functional, but they hadn't.

    Without checking into the matter since I'm about 18 miles from my closet at the moment, I thought Chan always made all four buttonholes functional. That's a new one on me!
     


  5. jhva3

    jhva3 Senior member

    Messages:
    270
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2010
    I like working buttonholes if they are on a summer sportcoat that I will actually roll up the sleeves on. Other than that, I don't really feel like paying for it just so I can unbutton one of the buttons to show everyone in my office what a bigtimer I am.
     


  6. SpallaCamiccia

    SpallaCamiccia Senior member

    Messages:
    2,364
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2010
    Location:
    Between Pinkos land and the sanitarium.
    I prefer working ones , but I don´t like to pay 20 euros to my mod tailor for each one .

    Also I find very pretentious or pedant the fact of letting the last one unbuttoned to show " it´s expensive ".

    It remembers me those douches with a low end car plenty of stolen logos like V12, turbo , 16V on it .
     


  7. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

    Messages:
    970
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2010
    Location:
    The Dark Side of the Spoon
    Me too, if I'm getting something made. If it's rtw or thrifted, I leave them non-functional.

    I think this is usually true. But Chan's don't. Their functional and non-functional look the same to me. At first I thought they'd made all four functional, but they hadn't.


    it depends on the thickness of the stitch. according to my tailor, some machines are able to make a thick stitch with a strong embossed effect that practically looks like the real thing. others can only make a feeble surface stitch that isn't going to fool anyone. the former looks perfectly fine, but to date i have seen it on only two of my suits -- a brioni and an isaia. on most of the others the fake holes look distinctly unfantastic.

    (i have to say that i find something bothersome about making something functional that serves no function. working buttonholes make you feel good that your nice suit is "complete" and authentic, but if you have any taste, you're never going to leave any of those buttons undone anyway -- so what's the point. making fake holes is no more silly than making real ones you're never going to use. if i could make fake ones as consistently good as the aforementioned two suits i mentioned, i would do it on all of mine. sadly, that is currently not a possibility.)
     


  8. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    6,046
    Likes Received:
    342
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    Up close, faux buttonholes tend to look atrocious.

    Not the ones on old bespoke BB and Chipp jackets, IMHO.
     


  9. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

    Messages:
    7,520
    Likes Received:
    1,575
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2007
    Without checking into the matter since I'm about 18 miles from my closet at the moment, I thought Chan always made all four buttonholes functional. That's a new one on me!
    Four functional buttons is probably their standard offering, but I asked for two functional and two non.
     


  10. Doxe

    Doxe Senior member

    Messages:
    507
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2009
    I had a custom tux made last month and asked for non-functioning buttonholes. The reason? Ease of alteration.

    I had a classic tux made. Using non-functioning buttonholes means I can pass the tux on to my sons one day (if I have any). That was the reasoning Mahon said A&S used.

    As for my normal suits, all have functioning buttonholes.
     


  11. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

    Messages:
    8,680
    Likes Received:
    420
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2004
    Four functional buttons is probably their standard offering, but I asked for two functional and two non.

    I just unbuttoned all four buttons of one of my most recent Chan jackets to see if they worked before reading your post.

    Why in the world would you request two non-functional buttonholes? They don't give you a price break for that, do they?
     


  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I just unbuttoned all four buttons of one of my most recent Chan jackets to see if they worked before reading your post.

    Why in the world would you request two non-functional buttonholes? They don't give you a price break for that, do they?


    The idea is that if you leave the coat to you son and he has longer arms, the stitching on the fake holes can be picked out and the sleeves lengthened.
     


  13. Kajak

    Kajak Senior member

    Messages:
    2,519
    Likes Received:
    168
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2010
    Location:
    Canada
    The idea is that if you leave the coat to you son and he has longer arms, the stitching on the fake holes can be picked out and the sleeves lengthened.

    Or you add another button for the legendary 5 button sleeve.
     


  14. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

    Messages:
    8,680
    Likes Received:
    420
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2004
    The idea is that if you leave the coat to you son and he has longer arms, the stitching on the fake holes can be picked out and the sleeves lengthened.

    Interesting. I will probably be cashing in my chips sooner than most of you. It would be nice if I could pass on my Chan finery to my adult stepson, but he's so much smaller than I that he could never wear them. Ditto for my shoes. He'll get a lot of accessories, though. He'll appreciate the neckties, but I suspect my ascots and pocket squares will end up in a thrift shop somewhere.
     


  15. Made in California

    Made in California Senior member

    Messages:
    880
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    I had a custom tux made last month and asked for non-functioning buttonholes. The reason? Ease of alteration.

    I had a classic tux made. Using non-functioning buttonholes means I can pass the tux on to my sons one day (if I have any). That was the reasoning Mahon said A&S used.

    As for my normal suits, all have functioning buttonholes.


    I read what some of you are saying in an article also, and I find this bit a little weird. It's like, yeah, if you have kids, you can pass on the suit. But that's thinking waaaaay far in the future. It just seems crazy to choose your buttons on your jacket because of the desire to pass on the suit 40 years in the future. Suits might not even look the same. Your son might not like it. Your son may be way too small or large for the suit anyways. To plan like this just seems... extremely procedural.

    Or you add another button for the legendary 5 button sleeve.

    "Legendary"?
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by