• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 5: Good Art HLYWD rosette courtesy of Self Edge

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 5th auction is for a custom Good Art HLYWD bracelet courtesy of Self Edge. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Why the lack of MTM/bespoke casual shirts?

wmmk

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2008
Messages
2,689
Reaction score
8
Hey everyone,

I was just reading that "Band of Outsiders is overrated" thread and noticed that someone mentioned MTM shirts being cheaper than BoO at retail.

I like the fit and general aesthetic of BoO shirts, but have a feeling that MTM shirts could fit even better. It'd also be nice to choose my own details & fabrics. The thought of such shirts being cheaper than BoO is also really appealing.

So: why don't we see many MTM/bespoke casual shirts here in SW&D when their dressier counterparts are in abundance over in Men's Clothing? Is it because there are too many variables in the detailing on casual shirts, or just that there aren't many streetwear types interested in wearing MTM, that MTM casual shirts actually wouldn't be that cheap, or what?

Are there some great, cheap MTM casual shirt places that I'm overlooking? I'm interested...
 

Teger

Professional Style Farmer
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
22,648
Reaction score
7,675
There's not a large enough market yet, and if there is, nobody has taken the initiative to get a business going.

What we need is someone who lives in Hong Kong to go to Jantzen with some BoO shirts, get the sizing right, have that set as a 'model' and let us taller folks be able to adjust from that template.
 

bluemagic

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2008
Messages
3,000
Reaction score
0
The walls between MC and SW&D are falling.
I kind of like this. Cross-pollination of ideas is always a good way to prevent mental masturbation.
 

Teger

Professional Style Farmer
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
22,648
Reaction score
7,675
It's not that the idea of MTM casual shirts is a new thing, it's that there simply isn't a readily available program that will provide them. Remember that MTM isn't true bespoke - you're working off a template and hoping that your measurements translate in to something similiar to what you want.

It's also important to realize that most of these tailors have no experience with these type of shirts. When I put in the order for my mytailor.com shirt, Joe actually called me becuase he was so shocked by the measurements - I had to assure him that I really wanted a shirt that was only 29" long with an 18" shoulder and a 21.5" chest!
 

cldpsu

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2006
Messages
1,937
Reaction score
1
Which did you get the 2 ply superfine?
 

whodini

Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!
Joined
Jul 16, 2006
Messages
18,145
Reaction score
188
Originally Posted by wmmk
So: why don't we see many MTM/bespoke casual shirts here in SW&D when their dressier counterparts are in abundance over in Men's Clothing? Is it because there are too many variables in the detailing on casual shirts, or just that there aren't many streetwear types interested in wearing MTM, that MTM casual shirts actually wouldn't be that cheap, or what?

Ok, I think people are starting to miss the big picture.

Let's go basic: what's the basic difference between a shirt you see in MC and a shirt you'd see over here?


Think about it. Let it sink in.


Give up? Maybe some visuals will help:
A trad shirt (Zegna):

A streetwear shirt (Apolis):



A shirt just isn't a shirt. Trad can get away with keeping details simple but clearly there's FAR more room for experimentation in streetwear that you're really almost not even buying fabric to cover your back, you're wearing someone's art (not to sound overly dramatic.) MTM just couldn't do this.
 

cldpsu

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2006
Messages
1,937
Reaction score
1
^ I'd say that depends on the person doing your MTM pieces.
 

Teger

Professional Style Farmer
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
22,648
Reaction score
7,675
I think Get Smart has had Jantzen cut him military style casual shirts before. I just think that we need someone to get a good dialogue going with one of these tailors, get 1-2 base models put together, and let people just make personal adjustments from those templates.
 

evilgeniusdan

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2006
Messages
1,703
Reaction score
170
Originally Posted by Teger
I think Get Smart has had Jantzen cut him military style casual shirts before. I just think that we need someone to get a good dialogue going with one of these tailors, get 1-2 base models put together, and let people just make personal adjustments from those templates.
Yes. But this probably won't happen. And if it did happen, it would probably be at the "might as well buy BoO instead" price point
 

whodini

Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!
Joined
Jul 16, 2006
Messages
18,145
Reaction score
188
Originally Posted by Teger
I think Get Smart has had Jantzen cut him military style casual shirts before. I just think that we need someone to get a good dialogue going with one of these tailors, get 1-2 base models put together, and let people just make personal adjustments from those templates.
It takes a lot more work to have shit done right. He had a shirt jack made but it was only because a friend of his had previously set up an entire model for them to keep on record to copy. My problem is that do I really want to put all this fucking effort into a shirt when a) I don't know how good the fabric will be and b) at the end of the day it will still be a Jantzen. And c) wonder if I'll ever actually live to receive the shirt I made.
 

cldpsu

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2006
Messages
1,937
Reaction score
1
Originally Posted by whodini
It takes a lot more work to have shit done right. He had a shirt jack made but it was only because a friend of his had previously set up an entire model for them to keep on record to copy.

My problem is that do I really want to put all this fucking effort into a shirt when a) I don't know how good the fabric will be and b) at the end of the day it will still be a Jantzen.

And c) wonder if I'll ever actually live to receive the shirt I made.


Part c sucks.
Part b... really? That's like people saying your friend's suit will just be a thick as thieves suit after all
 

whodini

Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!
Joined
Jul 16, 2006
Messages
18,145
Reaction score
188
Originally Posted by cldpsu
Part c sucks. Part b... really? That's like people saying your friend's suit will just be a thick as thieves suit after all
Yeah, because the fine people at Jantzen also happen to be bad-ass skinheads who take me out for frozen yogurt when I'm in town... Are you really saying Jantzen is like TaT? Fuck man, that's just sad. You and I will have some words in a few weeks.
 

SoCal2NYC

Fashion Hayzus
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
12,204
Reaction score
5
MTM also offers no instant gratification.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 27 3.5%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 137 17.5%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 255 32.6%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 123 15.7%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 68 8.7%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 47 6.0%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 23 2.9%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 21 2.7%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 17 2.2%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 7 0.9%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 8 1.0%
  • 100+

    Votes: 49 6.3%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
428,778
Messages
9,223,780
Members
193,621
Latest member
hollygraham4545
Top