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why poplin fabric shirts?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by junior varsity, Oct 8, 2010.

  1. junior varsity

    junior varsity Senior member

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    so i have several poplin dress shirts by different italian fashion houses but all of them are so easily wrinkled that 15 minutes after putting them on, they are already looking like they just came out of the dryer. i iron my own shirts and when it comes to those shirts i heavily starch them, and it still doesnt work... also, when ironing those poplin shirts, they are so much more difficult press than the cotton counterparts from say brooksbrothers. so what is the point of making high end shirts in poplin? [​IMG]
     


  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Most of brooks brothers shirts are non-iron. They have this coating on them. It makes for a shirt that deteriorates quicker.

    Poplin wrinkles, that is just the way it is. I have accepted this and learned to kind of enjoy the "sprezzatura" of a wrinkled poplin shirt... If they are superfine, like over 120/2 x 120/2 they will feel softer, more luxurious, however more wrinkle prone. Buy shirts that are in the 100's and they will wrinkle less.

    Also, I have found that pinpoint cloth does not wrinkle as much, however is a bit heavier than poplin. You might want to go that route as well.
     


  3. 1969

    1969 Senior member

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    I think the point is that it's a lightweight fabric that is perfect for summer.
     


  4. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    i have poplin shirts made in 100/2 from better Italian mills that feel great and do not wrinkle much.
    I also have a 140/2 broadcloth/poplin that is very densely constructed that feels great and does not wrinkle as much as a lighter-weight version.
     


  5. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    May I suggest Twill instead of poplin (plain weave). I have many shirts in both twill and plain weave in the same coton (same NE, manufacturer and similar weight) and clearly the twill is more wrinkle resistent.

    Interestingly the twill seems softer where the plain weave seems to have a much dryer hand. The twill is as thin and light but feels more substantial somehow, just much nicer in my opinion. Because of this twill is now my absolute favorite and I will pick a plain weave only if it is an exclusive pattern not available in twill (which unfortuneately occurs often)
     


  6. junior varsity

    junior varsity Senior member

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    May I suggest Twill instead of poplin (plain weave). I have many shirts in both twill and plain weave in the same coton (same NE, manufacturer and similar weight) and clearly the twill is more wrinkle resistent. Interestingly the twill seems softer where the plain weave seems to have a much dryer hand. The twill is as thin and light but feels more substantial somehow, just much nicer in my opinion. Because of this twill is now my absolute favorite and I will pick a plain weave only if it is an exclusive pattern not available in twill (which unfortuneately occurs often)
    is twill readily available for off the rack?? almost everything available at dept stores or the malls (thomas pink, armani collezioni etc etc) are basically all poplin... i think only more conservative shirt makers like brooks brothers make standard cotton by the way, is poplin more durable than cotton?
     


  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Some of these brands could be broadcloth, which is much lighter and wrinkle prone than poplin.

    Poplin is cotton. It is just the weave that makes it "poplin".
     


  8. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    poplin=broadcloth
    various qualities from 40/1-240/2 still poplin/broadcloth

    twill is also a weave. again, lots of qualities
    some are smooth finished, some have a bit of a brushed feel
     


  9. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    Poplin is cotton. It is just the weave that makes it "poplin".



    Exactly.

    Poplin = Broadcloth = Plain weave. All 3 are equivalent nowadays and can be found in any type of material (coton, silk, linen, wool ect)

    Twill is a type of weave that has a diagonal appearance to it. It can also be found in any type of material (coton, silk, linen, wool ect)

    Poplin and twill weaves are both popular (poplin a little more prevalent) in RTW.
     


  10. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    poplin=broadcloth
    various qualities from 40/1-240/2 still poplin/broadcloth

    twill is also a weave. again, lots of qualities
    some are smooth finished, some have a bit of a brushed feel


    Sorry shirtmaven didn't see your post.

    DJA now has a shirting called Cullinan it is a 300/2 available in both twill and poplin. I have the twill only but this stuff is as decadent as silk but a whole lot more durable. Sadly there are only 4 solid colors available (5 in poplin).

    Do you know any twill in the 240/2? All the DJA (except for cullinan) and Monti stop at 200/2 for twill. 240/2 seems to only exist in poplin weave.
     


  11. 1969

    1969 Senior member

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    Anyone know if it's possible to purchase DJA by the yard anywhere? I'm using Acorn now but wouldn't mind trying the strong stuff.
     


  12. Matt S

    Matt S Senior member

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    Almost all of my shirts are poplin and I never have a wrinkle problem. Poplin does not take starch very well, so don't even bother. Starch works better on pinpoint or oxford shirts when the start has something to grab on to. Poplin is a smooth fabric and is more formal. It's comfortable in summer heat, yet it looks great year-round under a formal suit.
     


  13. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    DJA now has a shirting called Cullinan it is a 300/2 available in both twill and poplin.

    Are you sure? I thought 220/2 was the max these days?
     


  14. SpallaCamiccia

    SpallaCamiccia Senior member

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    What about the silky Zephire cotton used on high end shirts?
     


  15. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Are you sure? I thought 220/2 was the max these days?

    There are several 300/2 cloths these days. Bring $$$.

    --Andre
     


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