• We would like to welcome Exquisite Trimmings as an official Affiliate Vendor. Exquisite Trimmings is a UK based purveyor of the very best in clothing and accessories, from gloves by Thomas Reimer to leather portfolios from Il Micio, to watch rolls by Rapport London. Please visit their new thread and give them a warm welcome.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

junior varsity

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
1,437
Reaction score
26
so i have several poplin dress shirts by different italian fashion houses but all of them are so easily wrinkled that 15 minutes after putting them on, they are already looking like they just came out of the dryer. i iron my own shirts and when it comes to those shirts i heavily starch them, and it still doesnt work... also, when ironing those poplin shirts, they are so much more difficult press than the cotton counterparts from say brooksbrothers. so what is the point of making high end shirts in poplin?
 

patrickBOOTH

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
37,270
Reaction score
11,859
Most of brooks brothers shirts are non-iron. They have this coating on them. It makes for a shirt that deteriorates quicker.

Poplin wrinkles, that is just the way it is. I have accepted this and learned to kind of enjoy the "sprezzatura" of a wrinkled poplin shirt... If they are superfine, like over 120/2 x 120/2 they will feel softer, more luxurious, however more wrinkle prone. Buy shirts that are in the 100's and they will wrinkle less.

Also, I have found that pinpoint cloth does not wrinkle as much, however is a bit heavier than poplin. You might want to go that route as well.
 

Shirtmaven

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Dec 26, 2003
Messages
3,482
Reaction score
407
i have poplin shirts made in 100/2 from better Italian mills that feel great and do not wrinkle much.
I also have a 140/2 broadcloth/poplin that is very densely constructed that feels great and does not wrinkle as much as a lighter-weight version.
 

Xenon

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
602
Reaction score
30
May I suggest Twill instead of poplin (plain weave). I have many shirts in both twill and plain weave in the same coton (same NE, manufacturer and similar weight) and clearly the twill is more wrinkle resistent.

Interestingly the twill seems softer where the plain weave seems to have a much dryer hand. The twill is as thin and light but feels more substantial somehow, just much nicer in my opinion. Because of this twill is now my absolute favorite and I will pick a plain weave only if it is an exclusive pattern not available in twill (which unfortuneately occurs often)
 

junior varsity

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
1,437
Reaction score
26
Originally Posted by Xenon
May I suggest Twill instead of poplin (plain weave). I have many shirts in both twill and plain weave in the same coton (same NE, manufacturer and similar weight) and clearly the twill is more wrinkle resistent. Interestingly the twill seems softer where the plain weave seems to have a much dryer hand. The twill is as thin and light but feels more substantial somehow, just much nicer in my opinion. Because of this twill is now my absolute favorite and I will pick a plain weave only if it is an exclusive pattern not available in twill (which unfortuneately occurs often)
is twill readily available for off the rack?? almost everything available at dept stores or the malls (thomas pink, armani collezioni etc etc) are basically all poplin... i think only more conservative shirt makers like brooks brothers make standard cotton by the way, is poplin more durable than cotton?
 

patrickBOOTH

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
37,270
Reaction score
11,859
Some of these brands could be broadcloth, which is much lighter and wrinkle prone than poplin.

Poplin is cotton. It is just the weave that makes it "poplin".
 

Shirtmaven

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Dec 26, 2003
Messages
3,482
Reaction score
407
poplin=broadcloth
various qualities from 40/1-240/2 still poplin/broadcloth

twill is also a weave. again, lots of qualities
some are smooth finished, some have a bit of a brushed feel
 

Xenon

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
602
Reaction score
30
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Poplin is cotton. It is just the weave that makes it "poplin".



Exactly.

Poplin = Broadcloth = Plain weave. All 3 are equivalent nowadays and can be found in any type of material (coton, silk, linen, wool ect)

Twill is a type of weave that has a diagonal appearance to it. It can also be found in any type of material (coton, silk, linen, wool ect)

Poplin and twill weaves are both popular (poplin a little more prevalent) in RTW.
 

Xenon

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
602
Reaction score
30
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven
poplin=broadcloth
various qualities from 40/1-240/2 still poplin/broadcloth

twill is also a weave. again, lots of qualities
some are smooth finished, some have a bit of a brushed feel


Sorry shirtmaven didn't see your post.

DJA now has a shirting called Cullinan it is a 300/2 available in both twill and poplin. I have the twill only but this stuff is as decadent as silk but a whole lot more durable. Sadly there are only 4 solid colors available (5 in poplin).

Do you know any twill in the 240/2? All the DJA (except for cullinan) and Monti stop at 200/2 for twill. 240/2 seems to only exist in poplin weave.
 

Matt S

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2009
Messages
923
Reaction score
15
Almost all of my shirts are poplin and I never have a wrinkle problem. Poplin does not take starch very well, so don't even bother. Starch works better on pinpoint or oxford shirts when the start has something to grab on to. Poplin is a smooth fabric and is more formal. It's comfortable in summer heat, yet it looks great year-round under a formal suit.
 

Eustace Tilley

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2007
Messages
6,452
Reaction score
314
Originally Posted by Xenon
DJA now has a shirting called Cullinan it is a 300/2 available in both twill and poplin.

Are you sure? I thought 220/2 was the max these days?
 

SpallaCamiccia

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
Messages
2,364
Reaction score
6
What about the silky Zephire cotton used on high end shirts?
 

A Y

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
5,803
Reaction score
662
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley
Are you sure? I thought 220/2 was the max these days?

There are several 300/2 cloths these days. Bring $$$.

--Andre
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How do you feel about spending money on non-essential goods during the Covid-19 crisis?

  • I don't want to spend money at a time of economic uncertainty, even if I could afford it.

  • I feel compelled to spend to help small businesses that are struggling.

  • I reduced my budget for non-essential goods and I'm not spending at the moment.

  • Not much has changed for me and I'm still buying stuff I can't afford.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
438,707
Messages
9,456,610
Members
198,194
Latest member
KetoBodz
Top