Why no love for the three piece suit?

[chocsosa]

Yeah, this is a Milano.. don't wear it as much anymore.. the shoulders, while soft, are nowhere in the same quality as my TF.. the TF shoulders have a great shape and have held up well over the years.. the Milano shoulders are a little bit lumpy..

 

[Professor Χάος]

Some of the differences are subtle (handstitched button holes on Couture suits), and not so subtle (Couture typically has a strong chest/more structure than Milano).

Here's a good pic of the Zegna Couture cut:

Milano is a bit trimmer and softer.

I prefer the Milano. I once ordered a Zenga suit online and I returned home after the return date was past. It turned out to be a Torino. Horrible fit, too much shoulder padding, unimpressive cloth. Never again. Milano and perhaps Manhattan are the only Zegna models I'll wear.

 

[Professor Χάος]

Yeah, this is a Milano.. don't wear it as much anymore.. the shoulders, while soft, are nowhere in the same quality as my TF.. the TF shoulders have a great shape and have held up well over the years.. the Milano shoulders are a little bit lumpy.. View attachment 2232555

That looks great. If the shoulders are lumpy or poor fitting, you obviously have excellent tailors who can correct that problem.

TF makes excellent suits, but their shoulders are too bold for me, and with too much padding. At least with the Base A, O'Connor and Spencer, I ask my tailor to remove 90% of the shoulder padding and to narrow the shoulders by about an inch. The results have been great.

TF suits are also heavy, compared to the Milano and certainly compared to Isaia, Kiton, and the Neapolitans. I don't mind it, because every wardrobe needs variety, and TF suits in general are distinctive.

 

[othertravel]

Yeah, this is a Milano.. don't wear it as much anymore.. the shoulders, while soft, are nowhere in the same quality as my TF.. the TF shoulders have a great shape and have held up well over the years.. the Milano shoulders are a little bit lumpy.. View attachment 2232555

This is a good example of the Milano fit. Very clean/minimalist.

TF suits are just really well designed - there's no comparable OTR brand out there.

 

[othertravel]

I prefer the Milano. I once ordered a Zenga suit online and I returned home after the return date was past. It turned out to be a Torino. Horrible fit, too much shoulder padding, unimpressive cloth. Never again. Milano and perhaps Manhattan are the only Zegna models I'll wear.

Yeah, Torino was an interesting attempt at adding structure, but it didn't work for me either. I liked Manhattan, but it's not available anymore.

That looks great. If the shoulders are lumpy or poor fitting, you obviously have excellent tailors who can correct that problem.

TF makes excellent suits, but their shoulders are too bold for me, and with too much padding. At least with the Base A, O'Connor and Spencer, I ask my tailor to remove 90% of the shoulder padding and to narrow the shoulders by about an inch. The results have been great.

TF suits are also heavy, compared to the Milano and certainly compared to Isaia, Kiton, and the Neapolitans. I don't mind it, because every wardrobe needs variety, and TF suits in general are distinctive.

Have you tried ordering their cardigan models? Those are the soft versions of their cuts (e.g., O'Connor Cardigan).

 

[Professor Χάος]

Yeah, Torino was an interesting attempt at adding structure, but it didn't work for me either. I liked Manhattan, but it's not available anymore.


Have you tried ordering their cardigan models? Those are the soft versions of their cuts (e.g., O'Connor Cardigan).

No...I've never heard of O'Connor Cardigan. I thought Cardigan was a discontinued Zegna mainline silhouette.

Here is my experience with TF:

Base A: Fits well, and my tailors can adjust the shoulders and remove the padding so that it looks quite stunning.

Base Y/O'Connor: Disaster. I thought at first that someone had altered my suit even though it was new. However, it turned out that Base Y is their ultra-slim fit model. I don't like it at all. The mid-section was so tight, it was hard to button the jacket. My tailor had to let it out before it was wearable. I also don't like the thin lapels. One of the distinguishing features of TF suits, is the wide generous lapels. No more Fit Y for me.

Base D/Spencer: Nice but also too tight around the jacket waist. My tailor had to let it out to the maximum extent, but it fits great now. I also don't like the single dinner jacket vent on the back, but its tolerable. I've also seen double-vented models, which are more flattering.

Base B: Somewhere in between Base A and Base Y. The lapels are thinner than Base A but wider than Base Y. The jacket is tapered at the waist, but not the ridiculous extent of Base Y. I only have one Base B, which is 3-roll-2. I like that affectation very much, but its half-an-inch too long, so I will ask my tailor to shorten it, so that it conforms with the Base A length. Maybe I just got a longer suit than average, or maybe Base B is cut long.

I'm looking forward to trying the Atticus, because the Windsor/Base A has been discontinued, and I love the extra-wide lapels.

 

[Professor Χάος]

Wore this today.

View attachment 2039781
View attachment 2039783

Please tell me: what brand is this? Or is it bespoke?

 

[An Acute Style]

OTR from Brooks Brothers.

 

[othertravel]

I’m digging this piece from Manolo Costa:

His styling definitely has a Purple Label/Phineas Cole vibe.

 

[imatlas]

I’m digging this piece from Manolo Costa:

View attachment 2244575

His styling definitely has a Purple Label/Phineas Cole vibe.

I like the soft shoulders with the PL/PC vibe