Why no love for the three piece suit?

[othertravel]

That's encouraging. After all, a big part of why we're here is to feed each other's irrational fashion obsessions. ha ha. If it works out, I may contact TF in order to purchase the corresponding vest.

You can see the alternating weave I was talking about. In bolder pinstripes, the pattern consists of 3-6 lines of threading, instead of 2.

View attachment 2225567

Isn't that called a rope stripe?

Edit: Googled it, and yes it is! Should look great on a TF suit.

 

[Pascal1980]

That's encouraging. After all, a big part of why we're here is to feed each other's irrational fashion obsessions. ha ha. If it works out, I may contact TF in order to purchase the corresponding vest.

You can see the alternating weave I was talking about. In bolder pinstripes, the pattern consists of 3-6 lines of threading, instead of 2.

View attachment 2225567

Alrigth, on my suit the pinstrips are woven similarly. Hence they are not bold. The pinstrips in burgundy on my navy blue pinstrip suit are thus also subtle, not bold. The very fine pinstrips on my light grey-beign summer suit are also subtle and not bold.

Besides pinstrips I also like the glencheck and fishbone patterns, if they are subtle and fine and not bold.

Best regards

Pascal

 

[Mute]

In truth, part of my motivation for critiquing bold pinstripe suits, is that I'm considering one for myself. It's not a 3-piece, but I can always find the vest. It's a Tom Ford, and its possible that the pinstripes are not quite as bold as the picture suggests.

I've been doing a little research, and "boldness" of the stripe seems to be a function of how many lines of thread are used in the weaving of the pinstripe. Bolder pinstripes are created out of 3-6 thread lines (sorry I don't know the technical name for the weaving patterns). Less prominent pinstripes tend to be made from 1-2 or even one thread line that is broken up at regular intervals.

This is the Tom Ford suit I am referring to. After careful examination, I was able to determine that the pinstripes are created by two alternating thread lines, giving the pattern a slightly wavy structure.

What do you guys think? Yea or nay?

View attachment 2225515

I have a suit that is similar, though it's a chalkstripe in a flannel. It's one of my favorite, but while the stripes aren't quite as bold as these, they're even denser in pattern. But as only a two piece, it works fine if I don't go crazy wit the rest of my outfit. I tend to favor solid shirts and pocket squares. I think this will be a fine suit to add to your wardrobe.

 

[Professor Χάος]

Alrigth, on my suit the pinstrips are woven similarly. Hence they are not bold. The pinstrips in burgundy on my navy blue pinstrip suit are thus also subtle, not bold. The very fine pinstrips on my light grey-beign summer suit are also subtle and not bold.

Besides pinstrips I also like the glencheck and fishbone patterns, if they are subtle and fine and not bold.

Best regards

Pascal

Herringbone patterns are great...similar to "self-stripe" where the pattern is woven into the suit in the same thread as the rest of the suit. Glencheck, Prince of Wales, and similar patterns are classic.

I pretty much have everything, but I want more linen-cotton blends, more 3 piece suits, more double-breasted suits, and I want to expand my color palette; more biege, maybe forest green, and some burgundies.

 

[Professor Χάος]

I have a suit that is similar, though it's a chalkstripe in a flannel. It's one of my favorite, but while the stripes aren't quite as bold as these, they're even denser in pattern. But as only a two piece, it works fine if I don't go crazy wit the rest of my outfit. I tend to favor solid shirts and pocket squares.

The denser flannel fabric mutes any pinstripe, so it works well.

 

[Professor Χάος]

I have a suit that is similar, though it's a chalkstripe in a flannel. It's one of my favorite, but while the stripes aren't quite as bold as these, they're even denser in pattern. But as only a two piece, it works fine if I don't go crazy wit the rest of my outfit. I tend to favor solid shirts and pocket squares. I think this will be a fine suit to add to your wardrobe.

Thanks. That's two "yes" votes. I'm thinking seriously about buying this suit. Most of my suits are subtle, with a hint of flash. Patterns, unusual weaves, and brighter colors are best when they accentuate a suit, instead of overwhelming the intended audience. That's why I don't buy the more outrageous Isaia suits I've seen available. The patterns are simply too overwhelming.

However, I have two plain weave royal blue suits, one which is a Canali Milano, and the other is a Cesare Attolini, that are too soirée for regular wear, but they are stunning. Hence, I am not averse at adding a few more flashy suits to my relatively conservative wardrobe.

 

[othertravel]

From Tom Ford’s latest collection. Behold this beast with weapons-grade lapels:

Costs more than bespoke, but still a pretty great suit.

 

[Pascal1980]

From Tom Ford’s latest collection. Behold this beast with weapons-grade lapels:

View attachment 2228843

Costs more than bespoke, but still a pretty great suit.

Looks great!

Tom Ford is a US designer, is he? Why is the RTW suit than more expensive than a bespoke suit? I guess in the large US cities, like NewYork, Boston, San Francisco etc. a bespoke suit costs arount 6000€ upwards, similar to the prices one would pay in Germany?

Question: What do you guys actually think about a burgundy suit? I love the dark red colour of burgundy a lot and have a vest, to be paired with my dark blue suits, and a navy 3-piece-suit with burgundy pinstrips (love it!)?

Enjoy your day and best regards

Pascal

 

[Professor Χάος]

From Tom Ford’s latest collection. Behold this beast with weapons-grade lapels:

View attachment 2228843

Costs more than bespoke, but still a pretty great suit.

Is this an Atticus? I definitely want one of those.

 

[Professor Χάος]

Looks great!

Tom Ford is a US designer, is he? Why is the RTW suit than more expensive than a bespoke suit? I guess in the large US cities, like NewYork, Boston, San Francisco etc. a bespoke suit costs arount 6000€ upwards, similar to the prices one would pay in Germany?

Question: What do you guys actually think about a burgundy suit? I love the dark red colour of burgundy a lot and have a vest, to be paired with my dark blue suits, and a navy 3-piece-suit with burgundy pinstrips (love it!)?

Enjoy your day and best regards

Pascal

TF is American, but his suits are made by Zegna, allegedly to their couture standards (which is their highest level of quality).

In 2023, the TF brand was acquired by Estée Lauder for $2.8 billion. However, Zegna acquired the spin-off firm, Tom Ford International, which produces TF RTW lines.

I would like to buy a burgundy suit, if its tasteful. Perhaps I would prefer a rust colored suit. Nearly all my suits are various shades of blue or grey. I only have one beige PoW Isaia suit, and a Zegna of indeterminate color. I definitely need to diversify my color palette.

 

[othertravel]

Is this an Atticus? I definitely want one of those.

It’s a Shelton.

 

[othertravel]

TF is American, but his suits are made by Zegna, allegedly to their couture standards (which is their highest level of quality).

In 2023, the TF brand was acquired by Estée Lauder for $2.8 billion. However, Zegna acquired the spin-off firm, Tom Ford International, which produces TF RTW lines.

I would like to buy a burgundy suit, if its tasteful. Perhaps I would prefer a rust colored suit. Nearly all my suits are various shades of blue or grey. I only have one beige PoW Isaia suit, and a Zegna of indeterminate color. I definitely need to diversify my color palette.

It’s a misconception that TF suits are made to Zegna Couture levels. It’s actually closer to Zegna mainline standards - I.e. mostly machine made.

That said, TF offers a handmade option through their MTM program for a 50% upcharge, which would bring it to Zegna Couture standards.

Part of the reason TF suits cost more than Zegna mainline suits is that Zegna has to recover the cost of the licence it pays for.

To be clear, TF isn’t rebranded Zegna mainline. TF suits have features/design details you would find on Zegna mainline suits, and vice versa.

 

[Professor Χάος]

It’s a misconception that TF suits are made to Zegna Couture levels. It’s actually closer to Zegna mainline standards - I.e. mostly machine made.

That said, TF offers a handmade option through their MTM program for a 50% upcharge, which would bring it to Zegna Couture standards.

Part of the reason TF suits cost more than Zegna mainline suits is that Zegna has to recover the cost of the licence it pays for.

To be clear, TF isn’t rebranded Zegna mainline. TF suits have features/design details you would find on Zegna mainline suits, and vice versa.

Zegna no longer makes TF suits under license. In 2023, Zegna bought the spinoff firm Tom Ford International, which has exclusive rights to make TF RTW clothes. As for your contention regarding mainline vs couture, I will take your work for it, but I honestly can't tell the difference between couture suits and mainline Milano cuts for instance.

 

[Professor Χάος]

It’s a Shelton.

I see. It seems that the Shelton lapels are slightly larger than Base A. Atticus has even wider lapels. The problem with Shelton suits (for me) is they are cut slimmer, so I have to let out my size as far as it can go for them to fit properly.

 

[othertravel]

Zegna no longer makes TF suits under license. In 2023, Zegna bought the spinoff firm Tom Ford International, which has exclusive rights to make TF RTW clothes. As for your contention regarding mainline vs couture, I will take your work for it, but I honestly can't tell the difference between couture suits and mainline Milano cuts for instance.

Some of the differences are subtle (handstitched button holes on Couture suits), and not so subtle (Couture typically has a strong chest/more structure than Milano).

Here's a good pic of the Zegna Couture cut:

Milano is a bit trimmer and softer.