1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Why no love for the three piece suit?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by andrew96, Jul 5, 2011.

  1. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

    Messages:
    1,095
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    As this picture taken in 1968 shows, some of us have always worn a vest and a pocket watch. (I've never had a wrist watch.) Everything (except the Johnston & Murphy shoes) from Brooks Brothers.[​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. MrDaniels

    MrDaniels Senior member

    Messages:
    3,663
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2006
    In the late 70s/ early 80s (the last time that three-piece suits were very common) a lot of guys wore fobs that connected from the vest pocket to a buttonhole just for the "look" of having a pocket watch.
     
  3. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

    Messages:
    471
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York City
    I actually saw that nonsense on a cheap vest being advertised somewhere (a fake pocket watch chain) recently. I had no idea they were doing the same thing back then.

    I wear a pocket watch mainly because wrist watches have always physically bothered me (I don't like having something strapped to my wrist, hell I don't like wearing any kind of jewelry, which annoys my wife as I don't wear my wedding band 80% of the time). I am a little embarrassed to say that I don't even own a wrist watch, only a couple of pocket watches. The watch I wear most has a relatively narrow gold chain so as not to call too much attention to itself. I have seen some hipster types recently wearing pocket watch chains that look like they could hold a boat anchor on the other end.
     
  4. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

    Messages:
    471
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York City
    Heh... I wore a navy suit with a linen white vest just the other day - didn't look all that different than what you have on in that picture.
     
  5. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

    Messages:
    396
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2012
    Here's a recent picture of Prince Charles wearing a three piece suit, instead of his normal double-breasted:

    [​IMG]
     
  6. lemmywinks

    lemmywinks Senior member

    Messages:
    1,404
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2008
    It's the occasion and the costume-y nature of it. I'd only wear a 3-piece to an occasion that I know I own. Otherwise you draw a little bit too much attention to yourself... which is fine, but not all the time.
     
  7. Coburn

    Coburn Senior member

    Messages:
    624
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2009
    Location:
    Seattle
    
    He looks better in this then those boxy DBs.
     
  8. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

    Messages:
    26,133
    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2006
    Location:
    FOLKESTONE
    

    Very true..
     
  9. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

    Messages:
    396
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2012
    I agree -- the DB suits that he wears tend to look boxy and too slope shouldered. I wonder who tailored his three piece suit?
     
  10. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,111
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    Wow that's quite flamboyant. I like it.
     
  11. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,354
    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2012
    Location:
    Boston
    ......
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2013
  12. mhdena

    mhdena Senior member

    Messages:
    209
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2008
    Anyone can wear a well fitting 3 piece suit, big, small, short, tall.

    Fall and winter are the times for 3 pieces.
     
  13. mhdena

    mhdena Senior member

    Messages:
    209
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2008
    duplicate
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2013
  14. mhdena

    mhdena Senior member

    Messages:
    209
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2008
    

    Your "opinion" brings to mind Jackie Gleason, who 3 of the if not best dressed wearer of 3 piece suits ever.

    Several former football players, Howie Long, Michael Strahan, etc were wearing 3 pieces last season as well.



    Slim people, pffft!
     
  15. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,111
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    I would bet you in the days when people were wearing 3 piece suits typically, there knowledge of style was a lot better than it is today.
     
  16. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

    Messages:
    396
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2012
    What's interesting about Prince Charles' outfit is that the vest has lapels, and his pocket square does not mirror his tie, but picks up the same colors -- navy, red, and green -- in a different pattern. He's a thoughtful dresser.
     
  17. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

    Messages:
    396
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2012
    There are a couple of reasons why the vest is less common today, despite its undeniable sophistication:

    1. For the vest to lie smoothly, it should be worn with suspenders, but most men prefer to wear belts.

    2. Many men like to wear low waisted pants that sit on the hips, but vests need to be paired with high waisted pants. This is to avoid a gap between the vest bottom and pant top that would show the shirt and tie.

    3. A proper vest is difficult to tailor. It needs to conform closely to the body, so as not to wrinkle the jacket. A vest also needs a waist, hitting exactly at the waistline of the trousers, for a smooth transition between the upper and lower body. Evelyn Waugh, in his wonderful essay on dressing well, said that the vest "is invariably a failure except in expert hands." The challenge of tailoring a vest makes it less common in ready-to-wear and even in bespoke.

    4. The trend in clothes is towards greater casualness, and vests are seen as more formal, like stiff collars or French cuffs. In denim colored eyes, vests seem "fussy."

    5. Ample central heating is more common, compared to the old days when the thermostat was turned down to save money. In a 70 degree office, vests have gone the way of 18 oz suiting fabric.

    It's a shame, since the three piece suit, if done well, can be striking:

    [​IMG]

    For Waugh's essay, see: http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/01/beau-brummels-on-14000-year.html
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  18. OxxfordSJLINY

    OxxfordSJLINY Senior member

    Messages:
    659
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2007
    Location:
    Coram, New York, United States of America, 11767
    I absolutely agree! :)

    BTW, correct me if I am wrong, but Prince Charles buys most of his suits (the DB and morning suits, anyway) from G&H, right? That suit that Prince Charles is wearing looks like it is from A&S or one of the Savile Row tailors (such as Timothy Everest, Anthony J. Hewitt, Stephen Hitchcock and Steed, to name a few-okay, several) that have the same house style as (or a similar house style to) A&S.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2013
  19. Coburn

    Coburn Senior member

    Messages:
    624
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2009
    Location:
    Seattle
    





    Indeed. I believe that a well fitting 3 piece is the best way for overweight to minimize the weight.

    I'm not sure i can articulate why but I believe that the vest breaks up the expanse of the shirt and smooths out the radius of curvature of the stomach -- that fools the eye.

    When I get more time, I'll post pictures of Jackie Gleason, Edward G Robinson, Sydney Greenstreet. All look better because they are wearing 3 piece.
     
  20. Twotone

    Twotone Senior member

    Messages:
    1,019
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2008
    Location:
    Denver
    Nice suit. The vest pocket watch chain and a wrist watch, however, are a bit of a faux pas to me. A bit like wearing a belt and braces.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2013

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by