Why my tailor (Centofanti) is the best...

[brescd01]

1) His suits run $3000 with fabric, considerably less than other top-tier tailors in the big cities.
2) His suits are beautifully constructed and will last forever
3) He has one of the best fabric selections in his atelier I have ever seen, he must have more books than Beckenstein (though I have never been there), I am talking literally hundreds of books. And he knows them like the back of his hand.
4) He knows everthing and has seen everything. He is the opposite of iGentism: his opinions and tastes are timeless and he has nearly a century of perspective on everything.
5) He is the opposite of a snob: he is rightfully proud of his atelier and work, but never boastful. True story: I hesitated having him make me a blazer after he had tried to persuade me to get one, because at that moment (around April 15), I thought I might need a bespoke orange jumpsuit, if you get my drift. And he said "Order it and you can pay me whenever you have the money." And he was sincere. Needless to say, I ordered it and sent him a check ASAP. I ALWAYS pay him in advance, though he asks for payment after delivery.
6) I know this is a fault here, where people have strong opinions on small things like kissing buttons and cuffs, but his style is somewhat non-specific. It is pretty Roman with strong shoulders and not too tight in the chest. Apparently, this is because the tailors of Rome are not Roman, but from Abruzzi, and Centofanti is from Abruzzi. Plus, he tailors the suits to the client, so, for example, I probably look different in a Centofanti suit whan would Foo.
7) He is a good example of the absurdity of endless fittings. I cannot imagine how a tailor who cannot get the fit right after one fitting, can really run a business or charge reasonable prices. I have never had less than two fittings for any garment with Centofanti, but the second fitting is mostly for show, the man is like a laser with measurements, to call him precise is a pathetic understatement.
8) Do any London Lounge-ers remember Alden's pictures of a Sicilian tailor's workshop? That workshop in the photo illustrates a particular business model. That is Centofanti's shop, they are almost identical. To step into his shop is to step into Italy without the airfare.
9) I selected Centofanti from dumb luck. But I have grown to appreciate how lucky I am to be a client of his, with time.
10) He happily (and I mean happily, not as a "favor" or "concession for a good client") does alterations, and not just alterations, he uses the same craftsmanship to alter others' garments as he does to construct his own. He depends on alterations for a substantial part of his business, in fact.
11) Delivery in 6 weeks without fail. No bullshit about big orders.
12) I feel as a client of Centofanti that I am the lucky recipient of works of art, not that I am so smart or the member of some exclusive club. If anyone knows the restauranteur Vrinat, the deceased owner of Taillevant, and how he made every client feel as if everyone should eat in his restaurant at least once (as opposed to like a rich person who eats there everyday), you will understand how Centofanti and his family make me feel.

The lack of appreciation for Centofanti on this NYC-centric board is criminal and I am posting to correct this fact. Alden's London Lounge certification would be a good idea if he didn't favor tailors who visit the cities he frequents, plus NYC because Manton lives there. And for me, a reminder that the London Lounge certification is not what it could be, is that Centofanti is not "certified."

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by brescd01

1) His suits run $3000 with fabric, considerably less than other top-tier tailors in the big cities.
2) His suits are beautifully constructed and will last forever
3) He has one of the best fabric selections in his atelier I have ever seen, he must have more books than Beckenstein (though I have never been there), I am talking literally hundreds of books. And he knows them like the back of his hand.
4) He knows everthing and has seen everything. He is the opposite of iGentism: his opinions and tastes are timeless and he has nearly a century of perspective on everything.
5) He is the opposite of a snob: he is rightfully proud of his atelier and work, but never boastful. True story: I hesitated having him make me a blazer after he had tried to persuade me to get one, because at that moment (around April 15), I thought I might need a bespoke orange jumpsuit, if you get my drift. And he said "Order it and you can pay me whenever you have the money." And he was sincere. Needless to say, I ordered it and sent him a check ASAP. I ALWAYS pay him in advance, though he asks for payment after delivery.
6) I know this is a fault here, where people have strong opinions on small things like kissing buttons and cuffs, but his style is somewhat non-specific. It is pretty Roman with strong shoulders and not too tight in the chest. Apparently, this is because the tailors of Rome are not Roman, but from Abruzzi, and Centofanti is from Abruzzi. Plus, he tailors the suits to the client, so, for example, I probably look different in a Centofanti suit whan would, say, Foo.
7) He is a good example of the absurdity of endless fittings. I cannot imagine how a tailor who cannot get the fit right after one fitting, can really run a business or charge reasonable prices. I have never had less than two fittings for any garment with Centofanti, but the seond fitting is mostly for show, the man is like a laser with measurements, to call him precise is a pathetic understatement.
8) Do any London Lounge-ers remember Alden's pictures of a Sicilian tailor's workshop? That workshop in the photo illustrates a particular business model. That is Centofanti's shop, they are almost identical. To step into his shop is to step into Italy without the airfare.
9) I selected Centofanti from dumb luck. But I have grown to appreciate how lucky I am to be a client of his, with time.
10) He happily (and I mean happily, not as a "favor" or "concession for a good client") does alterations, and not just alterations, he uses the same craftsmanship to alter others' garments as he does to construct his own. He depends on alterations for a substantial part of his business, in fact.
11) Delivery in 6 weeks without fail. No bullshit about big orders.
12) I feel as a client of Centofanti that I am the lucky recipient of works of art, not that I am so smart or the member of some exclusive club. If anyone knows the restauranteur Vrinat, now deceased, the owner of Taillevant, and how he made every clent feel as if everyone should eat in his restaurant at least once (as opposed to like a rich person who eats there everyday), you will understand how Centofanti and his family make me feel.

The lack of appreciation for Centofanti on this NYC-centric board is criminal and I am posting to correct this fact. Alden's London Lounge certification would be a good idea if he didn't favor tailors who visit the cities he frequents, plus NYC because Manton lives there. And for me, a reminder that the London Lounge certification is not what it could be, is that Centofanti is not "certified."
Perhaps the crime here is that he is marooned in Philadelphia.
I will be in Philadelphia in a week or two. Please post his address as I would love to stop in and see him.

 

[dcg]

Originally Posted by brescd01

10) He happily (and I mean happily, not as a "favor" or "concession for a good client") does alterations, and not just alterations, he uses the same craftsmanship to alter others' garments as he does to construct his own. He depends on alterations for a substantial part of his business, in fact.

I've always heard excellent things about him, and have been curious about this. I've had trouble finding anyone that does good alterations in the area. This is even for folks that haven't commissioned anything from him? I'm unfortunately not in a position to afford his work at the moment.

 

[taxgenius]

....

 

[voxsartoria]

How about some photographs?


- B

 

[braindoc]

As a lucky client of Centofanti, I have to agree with everything noted above. Joe is a genuine craftsman and in other cultures, he would be considered a national treasure. Over his 90+ years, he has hone his tailoring skills and makes a beautiful suit. I am always warmly welcomed and because they know I have an interest in clothing, Mr. Centofanti, his apprentice or his daughter Helen will often show me interesting pieces they are making or bring out a new fabric book that they think might interest me. I have spent rainy saturday mornings flipping through fabric books just to get ideas and I have never been rushed or pressured. The shop to put it kindly is a "dump" but I say that with affection. There is nothing pretentious and your dollars and not being spent on fancy surroundings. After one or two purchases, you become more like family. I know the folks who work there, Joe's grandchildren, other clients. I only hope that Joe lives another hundred years.

 

[tsherry]

I'm having a 2nd fitting on a dinner jacket at Centofanti's in a couple of hours. It's a joy to stop in his shop where except for a brief retirement he has been for 50+ years. I have had alterations done there for a while now after I read about him in the Robb Report (which I think I may have seen referenced here on SF) but this is my first commission. I agree with everything said above.
He is at 7 Station Rd. in Ardmore, PA. It's a 1/2 block from the train station, so minutes from Philadelphia.
Another heartening fact is he has taken on an apprentice, so rare today. You can read about it here: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/s...oryId=17859903

 

[Thurston]

NPR story from January, 2008. (link deleted for brevity as it was posted above and below) I live in his part of the world and specifically frequent a business that is within sight of his shop. For whatever it's worth, and that may be very little, one of the guys there, an Italian immigrant, has told me that the daughter runs everything now and much of the work is contracted out to non-employees who do piece work out of their houses. He claims his neigbor does a lot of this work.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by tsherry

I'm having a 2nd fitting on a dinner jacket at Centofanti's in a couple of hours. It's a joy to stop in his shop where except for a brief retirement he has been for 50+ years. I have had alterations done there for a while now after I read about him in the Robb Report (which I think I may have seen referenced here on SF) but this is my first commission. I agree with everything said above.
He is at 7 Station Rd. in Ardmore, PA. It's a 1/2 block from the train station, so minutes from Philadelphia.
Another heartening fact is he has taken on an apprentice, so rare today. You can read about it here: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/s...oryId=17859903

Oh well. That is unlikely to work for me.

 

[NorCal_1]

+1 for pictures


Tailor's Apprentice Hones Craft in Pennsylvania Shop
by Frank Langfitt
January 9, 2008

Step into Centofanti Custom Tailors on Philadelphia's Main Line and step back in time. In one corner stands a rusting steam press with a pipe held together by duct tape. Next to it is an old machine that makes buttonholes.

Head into the basement and you find Joe Genuardi, 27, using a huge pair of shears to cut a suit from a piece of blended fabric, cashmere and silk.

Joe Genuardi is a tailor's apprentice on Philadelphia's Main Line. He's cutting a suit for Eagles owner Jeffrey Lurie

Genuardi has spent the last year-and-a-half learning to make custom suits by hand. Instead of working off digital blueprints, he drafts the clothes for each customer on life-size pieces of cardstock.

"I'm proud to be at this point where I can make this from scratch," he says of a pair of pants he's making for his girlfriend. "I don't have to buy a pattern, I don't have to go to a store and buy something off the rack."

The man who is teaching him is Joseph Centofanti, 89.

Centofanti learned tailoring as a boy in Italy, and he's been working at his Ardmore, Pa., store for 51 years. Centofanti makes more than 150 pieces of clothing a season. Suits begin at $2,500.

Finding people to help him is tough, Centofanti says. Where does he go?

"They find me," he says.

But there aren't many.

'You're Crazy!'

Genuardi was planning to move to Italy to learn tailoring. But then he heard about Centofanti, and went to the store.

"We talked that morning for at least an hour. He asked me, 'Why, why in God's name do you want to get into this field? You're crazy!'" Genuardi says.

Since then, Centofanti has taught Genuardi how to calculate proportions using an L-shaped metal tailor's square and to draft, cut and sew by hand.

Genuardi studied industrial design in college. He says most of his classmates work for global firms like Ralph Lauren or DKNY.

A Growing Trend

Genuardi may be an anomaly, says Patricia Mears, deputy director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, but she also says there are more people who seem to share his values.

"There's a growing trend amongst young people who not only want to avoid creating things or consuming things on a mass-market level, they are engrossed in the concept of craft, especially something so intimately connected to the human body," Mears says.

Genuardi would like to have his own tailor shop one day.

"It takes a long time to learn, and the more I learn, the more I know it takes longer. And I'm OK with that, because I love what I'm doing," he says.

As for Centofanti — he has no plans to retire.

And he expects his shop to outlive him.

"My daughter is going to take over," Ceontofanti says.

Then his daughter, Helen, chimes in: "And hopefully Joe will stick with me."

 

[blackbowtie]

Originally Posted by Thurston

much of the work is contracted out to non-employees who do piece work out of their houses. He claims his neigbor does a lot of this work.

Please educate me: is this good, bad or of no consequence?

 

[Thurston]

Originally Posted by blackbowtie

Please educate me: is this good, bad or of no consequence?
Well, I guess it might be true to some traditional Italian models, but the implication is that he's trading on his name but the customer is not getting the master's work. It may well be a kernel of truth blown out of proportion. It may be sour grapes. But I've heard it more than one place, so it's out there.

 

[philosophe]

Centofanti is extremely gracious and a real gentleman. I once stopped in to inquire about some alterations, and he showed me all sorts of works in progress while explaining that the alteration I wanted wasn't a good idea.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by brescd01

The lack of appreciation for Centofanti on this NYC-centric board is criminal and I am posting to correct this fact. Alden's London Lounge certification would be a good idea if he didn't favor tailors who visit the cities he frequents, plus NYC because Manton lives there. And for me, a reminder that the London Lounge certification is not what it could be, is that Centofanti is not "certified."
Criminal, heh. Is a LL certification similar to going into a partnership with cosa nostra?

 

[cuffthis]

Originally Posted by dopey

Perhaps the crime here is that he is marooned in Philadelphia.
I will be in Philadelphia in a week or two. Please post his address as I would love to stop in and see him.

If you are in Philly, you better come down to Wilmington to say hi. It's an easy car/train ride.