In discussing the 'quality' of the various firms' shoes, it seems to me there are a number of issues one can consider. First of all, quality is a function of both materials and construction. As to the former, I believe all of the British bespoke firms buy some (all?) of their upper leather from A&A Crack, a leather merchant in Northampton, whereas the French, Italians, and others get their uppers somewhere else. I wouldn't be surprised if Lobb Paris gets leather from the tanneries, given Hermes' status as a major buyer of the highest-quality leather for bags, wallets, and saddlery. If nothing else, I would think the folks at Lobb Paris get the benefit of Hermes' expertise in evaluating the quality of the hides they purchase. Furthermore, given the Lobb Paris price point, they can afford to pay more for leather and/or be more discriminating in what parts of a hide they use. Thus, I wouldn't be surprised that the quality of the upper leather would be at least slightly different between the UK and continental firms. Likewise, the UK firms use Bakers leather for their insoles, outsoles, welts, counters, toe puffs, and heel lifts. The non-UK firms likely use other suppliers, though some may use Bakers. So, again, different suppliers will have different qualities, though whose is better I cannot say. I was basically told the same thing by a Lobb Paris employee that apprenticed at X London firm, worked at Y London firm and left for Lobb Paris; in his view the materials that Lobb Paris and the other French houses use are [whatever adjective you like] than the London firms. Yes he has an incentive to be biased, but he seems like a straight-forward gentleman to me and I didn't get the sense he was trying to denigrate the competition (and at their prices it would be nice if it is true). anybody want to see my 5 pairs of JLP bespoke shoes? I can't wear them now since I have put on like 35 lb since I had received them (10 years ago I think). Besides, I work for GG so it is not exactly appropriate to "wear"them I suppose.......... はい, おねがいします. みせてください!!!